wasteland_jack Posted August 9, 2022 Author Share Posted August 9, 2022 Sorry that it didn't completely fix the problem. But you fixed A problem. We just need to keep peeling the onion to get the rest of them. First, is there a vent line on your tank? You should have a small line going to a wye with a line coming from the other tank, and then going to the right side frame rail and up it to the charcoal canister below the battery. You need a vent, so if that line is capped off you'll have problems. Next, you can pull the sending unit out of the tank to look inside by using a brass drift to tap the tapered ring that holds it counterclockwise. But there aren't really any lines inside. There's a metal tube with a filter sock on the end of it, through which gas enters the system. And if that tube has rusted off and isn't reaching the bottom of the tank you could be running out of fuel. Or if the sock is clogged. As for he valve, it isn't a problem that you bypassed it. One less thing to cause a problem right now. On the timing, did you pull and plug the vacuum advance to the distributor to set the timing? You need to do that to set base timing. But even then the +50 degrees of advance was too much. So I'd pull & plug it now to see what your timing at idle is. However, it is possible the damper slipped, so if setting the timing with the vacuum disconnected doesn't work then it is time to find TDC. And the exhaust manifold does have some cracks, but if it isn't leaking I wouldn't worry about it. They are pretty thick. Hi, Gary. I was under the impression that you set total timing at higher RPMs and then your timing is set. I would appreciate if you could do me the huge favor of giving me the timing 101 from start to finish, or a link to a place where I can find a good guide. Is that possible? The timing guides I find online all have different directions or are for different motors. Best, Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 10, 2022 Share Posted August 10, 2022 Hi, Gary. I was under the impression that you set total timing at higher RPMs and then your timing is set. I would appreciate if you could do me the huge favor of giving me the timing 101 from start to finish, or a link to a place where I can find a good guide. Is that possible? The timing guides I find online all have different directions or are for different motors. Best, Jack Jack - The best instructions I know of for ignition timing are from Crane. We have them on the site at Documentation/Electrical/Ignition and then the Instructions tab and then the Crane Cams Instructions tab. Read the overview up top on what the various components of advance do, and then skip down to Step 22. In your case you probably aren't going to play with the advance springs, so you instead of that you could dial in a bit more initial advance - assuming the engine doesn't kick back on starting and you don't experience knock. Anyway, take a gander at that and then see if you have more questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasteland_jack Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 Hi, Gary. The 1983 Owner's Manual link in the Manuals and Literature table gives me a 404 Not Found when I click on it. Do you have this owner's manual for a 1983 F-150? Best, Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasteland_jack Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 Hi, Gary. The 1983 Owner's Manual link in the Manuals and Literature table gives me a 404 Not Found when I click on it. Do you have this owner's manual for a 1983 F-150? Best, Jack I just went back to Ford, but they only carry owner's manuals back to 1996! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 Hi, Gary. The 1983 Owner's Manual link in the Manuals and Literature table gives me a 404 Not Found when I click on it. Do you have this owner's manual for a 1983 F-150? Best, Jack I'm not sure why the address was wrong, but I think it is fixed now. Please give it a try and let me know what you find. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasteland_jack Posted November 24, 2022 Author Share Posted November 24, 2022 I'm not sure why the address was wrong, but I think it is fixed now. Please give it a try and let me know what you find. Hello, all. Long time no see! I've been out all summer driving around my reliable, do-all truck. Thank you all for your help in getting there! Today, however, it just started running terribly. It is idling roughly and won't rev without misfiring, even after warming up for 10 minutes. There were no apparent changes in timing or vacuum hoses, which I have checked. The only change I could think of is that it got very cold. What else could be the problem? Sorry for the open-ended question here. Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 24, 2022 Share Posted November 24, 2022 Hello, all. Long time no see! I've been out all summer driving around my reliable, do-all truck. Thank you all for your help in getting there! Today, however, it just started running terribly. It is idling roughly and won't rev without misfiring, even after warming up for 10 minutes. There were no apparent changes in timing or vacuum hoses, which I have checked. The only change I could think of is that it got very cold. What else could be the problem? Sorry for the open-ended question here. Jack Glad it has been running so well. But a change like that should be easy to find. Have you checked the bolts that hold the carb to the intake? Or the carb body to the throttle plate? They tend to come loose on the 300 and cause quite a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 26, 2022 Share Posted November 26, 2022 Glad it has been running so well. But a change like that should be easy to find. Have you checked the bolts that hold the carb to the intake? Or the carb body to the throttle plate? They tend to come loose on the 300 and cause quite a leak. That is a good place to start, but if I had to guess look at the choke not opening all the way. As the RPM goes up and more air is being pushed in it can get push the choke closed. Because it is colder the choke may not be opening all the way. I kind of had this happen on my truck. Truck run fine but the temp dropped to the low 20'sF and the choke never came off the fast idle step even after a 45+ min drive on the high way to work. This was over a few days but when it got warmer for the ride home each day it was fine, fast idle cam came off. I am running EFI exh manifolds and factory Carter v1 carb, read electric with hot air asst. I have copper tubing wrapped around the manifold for heat but when that cold the air in the engine bay was pushing cold air over the tubing and cooling the hot air. My fix was to make sure the tubing was tight to the manifold and use header wrap around the tubing & manifold. This was what it needed as I have not had any other issues. Just the other day it was 24*f and the choke worked as it should. So dont over look the choke closing Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted November 27, 2022 Share Posted November 27, 2022 Glad it has been running so well. But a change like that should be easy to find. Have you checked the bolts that hold the carb to the intake? Or the carb body to the throttle plate? They tend to come loose on the 300 and cause quite a leak. That is a good place to start, but if I had to guess look at the choke not opening all the way. As the RPM goes up and more air is being pushed in it can get push the choke closed. Because it is colder the choke may not be opening all the way. I kind of had this happen on my truck. Truck run fine but the temp dropped to the low 20'sF and the choke never came off the fast idle step even after a 45+ min drive on the high way to work. This was over a few days but when it got warmer for the ride home each day it was fine, fast idle cam came off. I am running EFI exh manifolds and factory Carter v1 carb, read electric with hot air asst. I have copper tubing wrapped around the manifold for heat but when that cold the air in the engine bay was pushing cold air over the tubing and cooling the hot air. My fix was to make sure the tubing was tight to the manifold and use header wrap around the tubing & manifold. This was what it needed as I have not had any other issues. Just the other day it was 24*f and the choke worked as it should. So dont over look the choke closing Dave ---- i just had this exact thing happen to bubba. it was as earlier commented. the throttle plat to carb screws were loose. this causes a vacuum leak through the carb itself and leans out the mixture and lowers the vacuum. then the choke does not even work correctly. its quite common on this particular engine/carb. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wasteland_jack Posted December 6, 2022 Author Share Posted December 6, 2022 i just had this exact thing happen to bubba. it was as earlier commented. the throttle plat to carb screws were loose. this causes a vacuum leak through the carb itself and leans out the mixture and lowers the vacuum. then the choke does not even work correctly. its quite common on this particular engine/carb. Thank you, gentlemen. I believe I've been able to solve this problem. I couldn't figure it out at first and just decided to re-time the engine to make a quick trip, but I knew that wasn't a permanent solution. I really need to re-do all the vacuum lines. I still have two that go nowhere and are plugged with a screw. What if I just remove all of this smog equipment? I already can't pass DEQ and just run around Portland with no plates because they don't pull you over here anyway. What are my chances that my smog output will improve after removing what is probably 50% non-functioning dead weight? Jack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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