FordFETruck Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 Hello all. New guy here, although some of you will probably recognize me from a past forum. Names Matthew, my truck is an 86 F250 4X2 with a 351W, C6 auto and 10.25" rear with 3.55 gears, I've had it for 10 years now, and not sure where that time has gone. My last projects were fixing what a pothole messed up - bent inner tie rod and adjuster sleeve on the passenger side and I did the kingpins at the same time, found it needs a crossmember to frame rivet replaced as it's slightly loose when steering, that's my next project this coming weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 Welcome, Matthew! I remember you! Glad you joined. Nice truck. Bummer on the pot hole damage. But if the rivet is the Huck bolt then that's par for the course. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted April 4, 2022 Author Share Posted April 4, 2022 Welcome, Matthew! I remember you! Glad you joined. Nice truck. Bummer on the pot hole damage. But if the rivet is the Huck bolt then that's par for the course. Where's home? We have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we can add you with a city/state or zip. Yeah, not looking forward to the rivet, it's the one the TSB is out for. Actually, in 2005 the crossmember had a crack repair a few inches to the left of the rivet, but that's been fine since. How do I get a bolt in from the top side? looks like I have to fish it in with a stick magnet? Home is Auburn, WA 98001 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 Yeah, not looking forward to the rivet, it's the one the TSB is out for. Actually, in 2005 the crossmember had a crack repair a few inches to the left of the rivet, but that's been fine since. How do I get a bolt in from the top side? looks like I have to fish it in with a stick magnet? Home is Auburn, WA 98001 You are now on the map. And yes, that one is in the TSB. It is a pain, but getting the bolt in was easier than getting the nut in, and then tightening it. I got the nut in by hot-melt gluing it to a screwdriver so I could hold it and turn the bolt to catch it. Easy enough, but tightening was a bit harder. I wound up placing a blank 3/8" lathe bit between the flat of the nut and the front edge of the crossmember. It was a tight fit and the bit and nut were hard enough that it wouldn't slip past as I tightened the bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted April 4, 2022 Author Share Posted April 4, 2022 You are now on the map. And yes, that one is in the TSB. It is a pain, but getting the bolt in was easier than getting the nut in, and then tightening it. I got the nut in by hot-melt gluing it to a screwdriver so I could hold it and turn the bolt to catch it. Easy enough, but tightening was a bit harder. I wound up placing a blank 3/8" lathe bit between the flat of the nut and the front edge of the crossmember. It was a tight fit and the bit and nut were hard enough that it wouldn't slip past as I tightened the bolt. I figured it would be a fun one to replace...LOL I know it says to use a lock nut, but what about using a standard grade 8 fine thread nut with loctite instead? I figure I can give the nut, since it faces the outside of the frame quick blips of the trigger with an impact to get it to tighten up if the bolt fits in the hole snugly, possibly holding one of the flats with a screwdriver through the top of the frame/steering box area to get it to tighten up initially and not spin? Then after that I noticed the PS reservoir is starting to leak a bit, so that needs resealed. I've thought about the saginaw conversion but don't really wanna spend the money. The C2 pump I have still works well and is relatively quiet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 I figured it would be a fun one to replace...LOL I know it says to use a lock nut, but what about using a standard grade 8 fine thread nut with loctite instead? I figure I can give the nut, since it faces the outside of the frame quick blips of the trigger with an impact to get it to tighten up if the bolt fits in the hole snugly, possibly holding one of the flats with a screwdriver through the top of the frame/steering box area to get it to tighten up initially and not spin? Then after that I noticed the PS reservoir is starting to leak a bit, so that needs resealed. I've thought about the saginaw conversion but don't really wanna spend the money. The C2 pump I have still works well and is relatively quiet. I would use Loctite Orange rather than Blue. But yes, that would work instead of a lock nut. And any way you can get it to tighten would work. But you do need to torque it pretty tight as there's a lot of force right there. I reamed it like the TSB says and got a nice tight fit, and that took the popping out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FordFETruck Posted April 4, 2022 Author Share Posted April 4, 2022 I would use Loctite Orange rather than Blue. But yes, that would work instead of a lock nut. And any way you can get it to tighten would work. But you do need to torque it pretty tight as there's a lot of force right there. I reamed it like the TSB says and got a nice tight fit, and that took the popping out of it. I was planning on using red, as I don't see the need for that to ever come apart again. It's weird, the crossmember moves more than the frame does when I have someone steer the wheel back and forth, the rivet is still tight in the frame itself, although sounds weird when hit with a hammer compared to the other rivets. Luckily the movement it does have when steering is very, very minimal. I have to hold my head really steady to even see it moving/flexing. I shall post more about my journey when I get into it this coming weekend. Really enjoying how the truck steers with the new kingpins though, return to center is better than it ever has been, and the steering effort is reduced by quite a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 I was planning on using red, as I don't see the need for that to ever come apart again. It's weird, the crossmember moves more than the frame does when I have someone steer the wheel back and forth, the rivet is still tight in the frame itself, although sounds weird when hit with a hammer compared to the other rivets. Luckily the movement it does have when steering is very, very minimal. I have to hold my head really steady to even see it moving/flexing. I shall post more about my journey when I get into it this coming weekend. Really enjoying how the truck steers with the new kingpins though, return to center is better than it ever has been, and the steering effort is reduced by quite a bit. Yes, red is probably the best way to go. And a fine-thread bolt will have a higher max torque rating, so that's a good idea. Clamp it as hard as you can. I'll look forward to your report. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 Yes, red is probably the best way to go. And a fine-thread bolt will have a higher max torque rating, so that's a good idea. Clamp it as hard as you can. I'll look forward to your report. I have not looked into what you guys are talking about but to keep either the bolt or nut from turning what if you were to weld it to flat stock with a hole in it for the threads to pass through. Fish that in where it has to go and once the threads are cough the flat stock would hit the sides of the frame and keep it from turning. The flat stock would also act as a washer to spread the load out more too. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 4, 2022 Share Posted April 4, 2022 I have not looked into what you guys are talking about but to keep either the bolt or nut from turning what if you were to weld it to flat stock with a hole in it for the threads to pass through. Fish that in where it has to go and once the threads are cough the flat stock would hit the sides of the frame and keep it from turning. The flat stock would also act as a washer to spread the load out more too. Dave ---- TSB 912518 refers to a fastener holding the front cross member close to the steering box. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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