FuzzFace2 Posted March 21, 2022 Share Posted March 21, 2022 IS there a way to fashion a makeshift vent tube? Mine has a new tank but the filler tube is all boogered up. The neck is punched out and apparently no vent tube. Anything I can do to make something that would not involve dropping the tank and ordering parts that don't always work properly. The bracket for the tube is lower in the filler so if maybe just the "no lead" door was the only thing punched and the bracket is still there. I say this because 1 of the "no lead" doors was missing from 1 of the necks but the tube bracket was still there. The other thing is unless you took it apart and know the tube is not there it could have come undone at the top and is sitting lower in the fill neck and cant be seen. I seen a lot of that posted when guys get in to replace tanks. I think over the years that tube shrinks and pulls out of the top bracket and when filling liquid goes down both and you have kick back. When I repaired mine I made sure both tubes where longer than need be so they would stay put and not pull out. Been 2+ years and a lot of fill ups only had an issue 1 time. I gave up and filled the other tank only to flip the switch to see how much fuel was in the tank that would not take any and it was full Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 21, 2022 Author Share Posted March 21, 2022 Thanks mat, I agree, making the entire piece with copper sounds like the better approach. I've got rain coming into my area tomorrow so that'll at least give me a piece of bench work I can get done. I appreciate the help. Now that I am not in as much pain (gal bladder out) and going back over this I see you said copper to replace the line and it reminded me someone did this (other forum?) but used PEX pipe in think 1/2" size. I cant remember if he used yellow or blue but he tested it in gas before he used it to make sure it would be OK and not melt.The hardest part I see is bending it and then fitting it inside the filler hose and hooking everything back up where it needs to be. So that maybe something to look into also. Dave ---- Man Glad your on the mend. Ahh pex, I hadn't thought of that. I bought a piece of copper this morning, I'm still not sure if I'm just going to remake the whole piece from copper or just stint it. I'm leaning towards remaking the whole piece from copper. I'm going to play with it and see what works best. I'm also thinking about doing this hookup in a week or two when I swap the beds out. Seems like it would likely give me more space. I've already got plans to do a few other things while the bed is off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted March 21, 2022 Share Posted March 21, 2022 If you can find a 87-96 filler neck, it has a different setup with a larger rubber hose where this won't be a problem in the future. When I pulled the filler neck out of my Bronco it looked like yours, and then promptly disintegrated once I touched it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 21, 2022 Share Posted March 21, 2022 If you can find a 87-96 filler neck, it has a different setup with a larger rubber hose where this won't be a problem in the future. When I pulled the filler neck out of my Bronco it looked like yours, and then promptly disintegrated once I touched it. On my 1980 Flareside, I used 3/4" air brake tubing. I bought a 3ft piece from a local shop for only a few bucks, and then curved the ends a little bit with a heat gun so that it traveled within the filler neck. It's nylon, as far as I know, and I thought somebody told me that it was OK with gasoline, but I can't confirm 100%...I'm no chemist...lol. Anyway, it fit snugly into the hole in the tank, and into the metal end/top of the filler neck, and it worked great. I could fill that tank with the gas nozzle on full blast until it was full. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 22, 2022 Share Posted March 22, 2022 On my 1980 Flareside, I used 3/4" air brake tubing. I bought a 3ft piece from a local shop for only a few bucks, and then curved the ends a little bit with a heat gun so that it traveled within the filler neck. It's nylon, as far as I know, and I thought somebody told me that it was OK with gasoline, but I can't confirm 100%...I'm no chemist...lol. Anyway, it fit snugly into the hole in the tank, and into the metal end/top of the filler neck, and it worked great. I could fill that tank with the gas nozzle on full blast until it was full. absolutely wait until the bed is off since it's coming off already. that will give all the access that you need to massage it all into shape. in regard to using a later model filler neck that's more of a NO. at least not without modification. true the later ones have a much larger inner pipe. not guaranteeing but I believe they fill from the inner pipe and vent around it opposite from the corrugated vent in a bullnose. I believe this based on a truck that came in with a filler removed and the inner tube cut. I simply spliced it and the splice was enough of a constriction for the fill to kick off horribly. so, when it came back, I had to do it on my time! back into backstock and I found one uncut. the hassle is what it is, but it left with a filler as ford would have it. that is only one issue. the other issue is just plain "fit". if you were to look at the fill tube out of the truck on a bench. pay attention to the flange where it mounts to the plastic overflow box. the flange is at 90 degrees from the pipe. on the later ones the flange is more like 70 degrees and is mounted to the bedside by way of a welded in overflow box as a permanent part of the bed. the box is not really the issue, but the 90/70-degree difference is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Posted March 22, 2022 Author Share Posted March 22, 2022 absolutely wait until the bed is off since it's coming off already. that will give all the access that you need to massage it all into shape. in regard to using a later model filler neck that's more of a NO. at least not without modification. true the later ones have a much larger inner pipe. not guaranteeing but I believe they fill from the inner pipe and vent around it opposite from the corrugated vent in a bullnose. I believe this based on a truck that came in with a filler removed and the inner tube cut. I simply spliced it and the splice was enough of a constriction for the fill to kick off horribly. so, when it came back, I had to do it on my time! back into backstock and I found one uncut. the hassle is what it is, but it left with a filler as ford would have it. that is only one issue. the other issue is just plain "fit". if you were to look at the fill tube out of the truck on a bench. pay attention to the flange where it mounts to the plastic overflow box. the flange is at 90 degrees from the pipe. on the later ones the flange is more like 70 degrees and is mounted to the bedside by way of a welded in overflow box as a permanent part of the bed. the box is not really the issue, but the 90/70-degree difference is. I had bought enough copper to remake the whole piece, theeeeen since I'd bought a foot too much I used a piece and made a stint. So as it sets I've got both to choose from. I'm not sure that it matters in the long run, but I do like the entire piece of copper one that I made, and primarily I'm saying that because it's solid and there's no "connection" not that I'm overly concerned of a worm clamp failing in this application, but by removing it from the equation there's absolutely no way to have a failed connection. Once I get the bed pulled this will be one of the things I add to the list 👍 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 22, 2022 Share Posted March 22, 2022 absolutely wait until the bed is off since it's coming off already. that will give all the access that you need to massage it all into shape. in regard to using a later model filler neck that's more of a NO. at least not without modification. true the later ones have a much larger inner pipe. not guaranteeing but I believe they fill from the inner pipe and vent around it opposite from the corrugated vent in a bullnose. I believe this based on a truck that came in with a filler removed and the inner tube cut. I simply spliced it and the splice was enough of a constriction for the fill to kick off horribly. so, when it came back, I had to do it on my time! back into backstock and I found one uncut. the hassle is what it is, but it left with a filler as ford would have it. that is only one issue. the other issue is just plain "fit". if you were to look at the fill tube out of the truck on a bench. pay attention to the flange where it mounts to the plastic overflow box. the flange is at 90 degrees from the pipe. on the later ones the flange is more like 70 degrees and is mounted to the bedside by way of a welded in overflow box as a permanent part of the bed. the box is not really the issue, but the 90/70-degree difference is. Yep, inside the fuel door sets at a different angle with my brick hose. But it does have a smooth inner tube and the fuel flows through that, with the tank venting concentrically. It seems to fill as quickly as most pumps will run. The '87> tanks don't have a stop for the inner tube at the tank inlet. I had a fun time getting mine back together when I last changed my tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted March 22, 2022 Share Posted March 22, 2022 absolutely wait until the bed is off since it's coming off already. that will give all the access that you need to massage it all into shape. in regard to using a later model filler neck that's more of a NO. at least not without modification. true the later ones have a much larger inner pipe. not guaranteeing but I believe they fill from the inner pipe and vent around it opposite from the corrugated vent in a bullnose. I believe this based on a truck that came in with a filler removed and the inner tube cut. I simply spliced it and the splice was enough of a constriction for the fill to kick off horribly. so, when it came back, I had to do it on my time! back into backstock and I found one uncut. the hassle is what it is, but it left with a filler as ford would have it. that is only one issue. the other issue is just plain "fit". if you were to look at the fill tube out of the truck on a bench. pay attention to the flange where it mounts to the plastic overflow box. the flange is at 90 degrees from the pipe. on the later ones the flange is more like 70 degrees and is mounted to the bedside by way of a welded in overflow box as a permanent part of the bed. the box is not really the issue, but the 90/70-degree difference is. Ah, well the Bronco is the same bend angle for my 82 and the 87+ version I purchased. So it works on Broncos at least, just not the other 90% of Bullnose trucks lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 22, 2022 Share Posted March 22, 2022 Ah, well the Bronco is the same bend angle for my 82 and the 87+ version I purchased. So it works on Broncos at least, just not the other 90% of Bullnose trucks lol that is interesting to learn differences. does your bronco have a welded in steel overflow box like the 87 and newer trucks? I know that my 84 bronco 2 does as opposed to the plastic bolt on one of the 80-86 trucks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted March 23, 2022 Share Posted March 23, 2022 that is interesting to learn differences. does your bronco have a welded in steel overflow box like the 87 and newer trucks? I know that my 84 bronco 2 does as opposed to the plastic bolt on one of the 80-86 trucks I'm not sure. I've had the whole system ripped apart for some time and can't think of anything that looks the part. Where is it supposed to be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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