1985F20 SuperCab "REDRUM"

[FuzzFace2]

My truck has the same T connector to break out a 4 pin. The PO added additional wires (poorly) to wire in a separate 7 pin connector that is no longer present.

I'm undoing his terrible wiring and redoing it with the Resse connector I bought. It will be:

aftermarket T to 4 flat --> plug into the Resse harness to give me a panel mount 4 flat. This way I only need to wire in the heavy gauge wires to the 7 pin.

I have to repair the factory harness where the PO used the scotchloks to spice for their non existent 7 pin.

Ok I got it where you are plugging your harness now.

Where you are plugging in your harness I cut that flat 4 off and wired it directly into the 7 pin.

This way I have 1 less connection that could go bad.

I have adapter 7 pin to flat 4 like this

https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Wiring/Pollak/PK12716.html

Dave ----

[CRittaler]

Found a brake booster in stock at my local Napa so I grabbed it since mine would hiss when pressing the pedal.

 

 

That was the easiest swap I think I've done. No more hissing work pedal pressure!

 

I also took this time to run the truck for a while and check for fuel leaks, coolant leaks, etc.

 

Snapped some pictures of the gauges during the process.

 

 

 

I know that the oil pressure is high. Last year I changed the oil with 15W40 Rotella since that's what I run in all my vehicles.

 

The truck has a recent rebuild unlike my other vehicles so I need to change it back out to 10W30 and see how that looks. Its never been under load with this oil, only idling.

 

My new phone seems to like to rotate my photos... These were all taken in portrait mode. I'll rotate them when I get to my work pc in the morning. I usually post directly from my phone. &nbsp FIXED

I've been puttering along on the truck again. Got another tattoo so I had to let it heal and I decided to build a work bench for my shop which slowed me down as well.Picture of said workbenchI've fixed a ton of wiring under the truck, specifically the fuel pump/sending unit harness. There were marks from scotchlocks that were no longer present and a large portion of it had been unwrapped.I didn't take any photos of the wiring fixes.I also finished installing the 7 pin trailer connector. I ended up cutting and soldering instead of using the adaptor that was there.But for stuff that I did take pictures for, I dropped the front tank to replace the sending unit.The gauge read empty, knocking on it sounded empty. It was not empty. I was able to pump out 8.5 gallons.It looks like the PO swapped to newer tanks. The inner hose looked smooth and rubbery. I'm sure that I'm going to struggle getting the hose back on the tank so if anyone has any tips that would be great. I don't have enough ceiling height to lift the bed, and it's full of junk for a trip to the dump.I tested the sender outside the tank and it read full to empty no problem which leads me to believe the float was leaking.The old float is plastic and the one on the new sender is brass.I swapped the in tank pump over to the new sender, tested it with the gauge and installed it in the tank.I will note that I'm not using the in tank pumps, but I needed it to be able to reach the fuel. I'm using the frame mounted pump installed by the PO.Now I'm waiting on my 5/16 fuel hose and clamps to arrive so that I can remove all the hacked up nylon lines that were "clamped" with zip ties.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I've been puttering along on the truck again. Got another tattoo so I had to let it heal and I decided to build a work bench for my shop which slowed me down as well.

Picture of said workbench

I've fixed a ton of wiring under the truck, specifically the fuel pump/sending unit harness. There were marks from scotchlocks that were no longer present and a large portion of it had been unwrapped.

I didn't take any photos of the wiring fixes.

I also finished installing the 7 pin trailer connector. I ended up cutting and soldering instead of using the adaptor that was there.

But for stuff that I did take pictures for, I dropped the front tank to replace the sending unit.

The gauge read empty, knocking on it sounded empty. It was not empty. I was able to pump out 8.5 gallons.

It looks like the PO swapped to newer tanks. The inner hose looked smooth and rubbery. I'm sure that I'm going to struggle getting the hose back on the tank so if anyone has any tips that would be great. I don't have enough ceiling height to lift the bed, and it's full of junk for a trip to the dump.

I tested the sender outside the tank and it read full to empty no problem which leads me to believe the float was leaking.

The old float is plastic and the one on the new sender is brass.

I swapped the in tank pump over to the new sender, tested it with the gauge and installed it in the tank.

I will note that I'm not using the in tank pumps, but I needed it to be able to reach the fuel. I'm using the frame mounted pump installed by the PO.

Now I'm waiting on my 5/16 fuel hose and clamps to arrive so that I can remove all the hacked up nylon lines that were "clamped" with zip ties.

It's probably much easier to detach the fill hose from the filler neck (and fight it inside the bedside) than to fight the hose onto the tank while the tank is all the way up in place.

Do leave it shug but not tight in case the hose needs to rotate for alignment.

I tightened the hose at the tank once I got it up onto the filler neck.

At least that is what I did earlier this year when my side tank started weeping.

[CRittaler]

It's probably much easier to detach the fill hose from the filler neck (and fight it inside the bedside) than to fight the hose onto the tank while the tank is all the way up in place.

Do leave it shug but not tight in case the hose needs to rotate for alignment.

I tightened the hose at the tank once I got it up onto the filler neck.

At least that is what I did earlier this year when my side tank started weeping.

That's probably what I'll do.

The filter neck is loose right now anyways.

[CRittaler]

That's probably what I'll do.

The filter neck is loose right now anyways.

So, what are people doing to extend/replace the inner fuel hose on the late design tanks?

I swear every time I try and work on this truck I'm thwarted by ghosts of POs past!

I fished the filter neck and house out from under the truck and had a look at them. It seems that when the PO swapped tanks they elected to cut the inner hose. I even checked my spare tank and it's cut in the same spot.

My thoughts are to cut the inner hose and spice in a copper or brass fitting and the use some fuel submersible hose for the lower section.

Speaking of which, does anyone know what size the inner hose is? I couldn't find my calipers. It looks like 3/4" ID, but I could be wrong.

I'll fix the photos when I'm at a PC next.

[ArdWrknTrk]

So, what are people doing to extend/replace the inner fuel hose on the late design tanks?

I swear every time I try and work on this truck I'm thwarted by ghosts of POs past!

I fished the filter neck and house out from under the truck and had a look at them. It seems that when the PO swapped tanks they elected to cut the inner hose. I even checked my spare tank and it's cut in the same spot.

My thoughts are to cut the inner hose and spice in a copper or brass fitting and the use some fuel submersible hose for the lower section.

Speaking of which, does anyone know what size the inner hose is? I couldn't find my calipers. It looks like 3/4" ID, but I could be wrong.

I'll fix the photos when I'm at a PC next.

Chris, I'm not sure why the PO would have cut the breather hose off. (My '87 fills down the center and vents up the outside)

Perhaps they couldn't get it seated at both ends and finally gave up?

If you have two cut off hoses maybe you can use a piece of the other one to extend it to the stop in the tank neck?

Remember that tubing is measured OD but pipe is measured ID.

So tubing will be true to size but a piece of plumbing pipe will be larger, and a copper coupling will be larger still.

(at least this gives you some options)

[CRittaler]

Chris, I'm not sure why the PO would have cut the breather hose off. (My '87 fills down the center and vents up the outside)

Perhaps they couldn't get it seated at both ends and finally gave up?

If you have two cut off hoses maybe you can use a piece of the other one to extend it to the stop in the tank neck?

Remember that tubing is measured OD but pipe is measured ID.

So tubing will be true to size but a piece of plumbing pipe will be larger, and a copper coupling will be larger still.

(at least this gives you some options)

I don't know why they would have cut it either, but the end looks like it was cut with a razor blade. When the outer hose is fully seated on the filter neck, the inner hose is at least a couple inches short and is sitting up inside the outer hose and I don't see a way to seat it on the inner tube of the tank. I would have expected the inner hose to at least be flush with the outer for there to be a chance of seating it. Unless it's actually that hard.

I tried to remove the inner from the filler neck, but it was stuck on there and I didn't want to make things worse.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't know why they would have cut it either, but the end looks like it was cut with a razor blade. When the outer hose is fully seated on the filter neck, the inner hose is at least a couple inches short and is sitting up inside the outer hose and I don't see a way to seat it on the inner tube of the tank. I would have expected the inner hose to at least be flush with the outer for there to be a chance of seating it. Unless it's actually that hard.

I tried to remove the inner from the filler neck, but it was stuck on there and I didn't want to make things worse.

To answer the question about what people are using for hoses on the later tanks, I'm using new hoses I got off Amazon designed for the later tanks.

[CRittaler]

To answer the question about what people are using for hoses on the later tanks, I'm using new hoses I got off Amazon designed for the later tanks.

You wouldn't happen to have part numbers would you? Just in case I have to replace the unit. I'm going to try extending the inner hose first using some pipe/tubing as a splice, just have to find the right size and some decent clamps.

[Gary Lewis]

You wouldn't happen to have part numbers would you? Just in case I have to replace the unit. I'm going to try extending the inner hose first using some pipe/tubing as a splice, just have to find the right size and some decent clamps.

Here are the parts I used: