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Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project


Rembrant

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Did you ever hear back from him???

Ya, he replied in my FTE thread and said that with my picture above, looking from that view the rotation is CW.

What end view to the manufacturer's reference when stating CW or CCW?

New fan shroud and Spal low profile fan arrived yesterday finally. I had been waiting to order this for weeks...or months.

Anyway, it fits! I don't think a regular fan would have fit, but the low profile version does the trick just fine! With the engine offset almost 2" to the right, the fan and the water pump pulley don't really occupy the same space anyway, but still, I didn't want them to be too close either. PS: Ignore that grungy old alternator...it's only on there temporarily.

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New fan shroud and Spal low profile fan arrived yesterday finally. I had been waiting to order this for weeks...or months.

Anyway, it fits! I don't think a regular fan would have fit, but the low profile version does the trick just fine! With the engine offset almost 2" to the right, the fan and the water pump pulley don't really occupy the same space anyway, but still, I didn't want them to be too close either. PS: Ignore that grungy old alternator...it's only on there temporarily.

Looks great, Cory! (Save for the alternator.)

So, what is the plan for the alternator?

Also, my brother has a '54 Skyliner w/a 302. He doesn't have A/C but wants to add it. However, it doesn't look like there's enough room to get an electric fan between the water pump and the radiator. Is your 2" offset normal?

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Looks great, Cory! (Save for the alternator.)

So, what is the plan for the alternator?

Also, my brother has a '54 Skyliner w/a 302. He doesn't have A/C but wants to add it. However, it doesn't look like there's enough room to get an electric fan between the water pump and the radiator. Is your 2" offset normal?

Gary,

I'm just going to buy another stock 3G alternator, I think it's 95 amp. I may just clean this one up and paint it if it works OK.

My 2" offset isn't normal...I did it to clear the new power steering box I installed. I don't think anything is really considered normal with these swaps...anybody that I've talked to said there are no rules...every single one is different. I moved my radiator/core support ahead a couple inches...maybe 3". These trucks had two core support/radiator positions...one for V8, and one for inline 6. Most modern V8 swaps require the radiator be moved forward to the 6cyl position for the extra room.

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Looks great, Cory! (Save for the alternator.)

So, what is the plan for the alternator?

Also, my brother has a '54 Skyliner w/a 302. He doesn't have A/C but wants to add it. However, it doesn't look like there's enough room to get an electric fan between the water pump and the radiator. Is your 2" offset normal?

Gary,

I'm just going to buy another stock 3G alternator, I think it's 95 amp. I may just clean this one up and paint it if it works OK.

My 2" offset isn't normal...I did it to clear the new power steering box I installed. I don't think anything is really considered normal with these swaps...anybody that I've talked to said there are no rules...every single one is different. I moved my radiator/core support ahead a couple inches...maybe 3". These trucks had two core support/radiator positions...one for V8, and one for inline 6. Most modern V8 swaps require the radiator be moved forward to the 6cyl position for the extra room.

I wonder if the cars had two positions for the radiator?

On the alternator, pull it apart and paint it. I've powder coated them, and it worked ok but took a lot of time.

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Looks great, Cory! (Save for the alternator.)

So, what is the plan for the alternator?

Also, my brother has a '54 Skyliner w/a 302. He doesn't have A/C but wants to add it. However, it doesn't look like there's enough room to get an electric fan between the water pump and the radiator. Is your 2" offset normal?

Gary, on a '54 there may be room in front of the radiator for a thin pusher fan.

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Yes, Bill. That's what I suggested to him. We will see this spring/summer when it warms up as he will want to do something.

Gary,

The fan I bought is only 2.48" thick at the motor, and core mounting kits are available so it can go right on the rad if need be. I wanted the shroud and had just enough room for it, but it adds 3/8" or 1/2" or so.

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Yes, Bill. That's what I suggested to him. We will see this spring/summer when it warms up as he will want to do something.

Gary,

The fan I bought is only 2.48" thick at the motor, and core mounting kits are available so it can go right on the rad if need be. I wanted the shroud and had just enough room for it, but it adds 3/8" or 1/2" or so.

Thanks, Cory. But I don't think he has that much room between the water pump pulley and the radiator. I wonder if there is a shroud with two fans? Would that make it thinner right in the center?

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So, what is the plan for the alternator?

I got my battery mount back in place yesterday and I'm now trying to figure out the best way to run all of my heavy duty wiring. My Painless wiring harness came with a roll of red 6ga cable, and a nice little fuse block for the alternator (with a 150 fuse). I also have the original 3G harness from the 1996 F150. The 3G wiring seems pretty simple...there's only two wires in the original harness...the large one that goes to the battery or starter solenoid and one for 12v switched?

Anyway, the starter solenoid is on the firewall, and I was going to leave it there, but in looking at the picture maybe I'd be better off mounting it over on the inner fender between the alternator and battery. I'm trying to think of the best way to do this.

Cable #1 from ALT to fuse holder.

Cable #2 from fuse holder should go to battery positive, or to Solenoid input side?

Cable #3 from input side of solenoid to PMGR starter?

I may run a cable from the ALT to the pos side post of the battery, and then from the top post of the battery to the solenoid, and then another to the starter. I'm trying to come up with the cleanest and simplest way to do this.

Oh, and what size wire do I need for the trigger wire to the PMGR starter? I seem to recall that it only draws 4amps?

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So, what is the plan for the alternator?

I got my battery mount back in place yesterday and I'm now trying to figure out the best way to run all of my heavy duty wiring. My Painless wiring harness came with a roll of red 6ga cable, and a nice little fuse block for the alternator (with a 150 fuse). I also have the original 3G harness from the 1996 F150. The 3G wiring seems pretty simple...there's only two wires in the original harness...the large one that goes to the battery or starter solenoid and one for 12v switched?

Anyway, the starter solenoid is on the firewall, and I was going to leave it there, but in looking at the picture maybe I'd be better off mounting it over on the inner fender between the alternator and battery. I'm trying to think of the best way to do this.

Cable #1 from ALT to fuse holder.

Cable #2 from fuse holder should go to battery positive, or to Solenoid input side?

Cable #3 from input side of solenoid to PMGR starter?

I may run a cable from the ALT to the pos side post of the battery, and then from the top post of the battery to the solenoid, and then another to the starter. I'm trying to come up with the cleanest and simplest way to do this.

Oh, and what size wire do I need for the trigger wire to the PMGR starter? I seem to recall that it only draws 4amps?

I think I agree that the cleanest place for the starter relay is on the fender. And I believe I'd do it as shown below.

But on the trigger wire, the current draw apparently depends on the starter. Jim's PMGR from DB doesn't pull much but my PMGR from Powermaster pulls more than a Bosch relay can handle as I had problems with it. And when I asked Powermaster they said I needed to continue to use the big relay on the fender. Our page on PMGR Starters calls for a #10 wire.

Corys_Wiring.jpg.93b39841f33ce101c9e3c4f464b1d990.jpg

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