AmericanSavage Posted September 26, 2022 Share Posted September 26, 2022 First off, love the truck—not often one sees a Mercury. Second: where did you get the pipes since a shop would not do it for you. Thanks. The Mercury trucks are actually pretty common here in Canada. I wouldn't say they're 50/50 with the Fords or anything, but at any given car show around here, if there are 10 fomoco trucks there, 3 will be Mercs! On the exhaust, I bought all individual pieces and welded them together myself to make the pipes myself. Just want to be clear—you even bought them pre-bent? Please do share where! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted September 26, 2022 Author Share Posted September 26, 2022 Just want to be clear—you even bought them pre-bent? Please do share where! Oh, sorry...yes I bought all the pipe fittings loose and then fitted the whole thing together under the truck to position the pieces, and then took it all back out and welded everything together. I bought them at Canadian Tire, and I'm not sure what the equivalent store would be in the US. It's a blend of hardware, sporting goods, and auto parts all under one roof lol. It's our go to store. I assume the American auto parts stores sell pre-bent exhaust pipe fittings? Our local stores have a whole exhaust section with all these pieces, so you carry 'em all home in a bag and then assemble at home lol. We have Napa and CarQuest and similar shops here...but they don't cater as much to the DIY crowd. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 Just want to be clear—you even bought them pre-bent? Please do share where! Oh, sorry...yes I bought all the pipe fittings loose and then fitted the whole thing together under the truck to position the pieces, and then took it all back out and welded everything together. I bought them at Canadian Tire, and I'm not sure what the equivalent store would be in the US. It's a blend of hardware, sporting goods, and auto parts all under one roof lol. It's our go to store. I assume the American auto parts stores sell pre-bent exhaust pipe fittings? Our local stores have a whole exhaust section with all these pieces, so you carry 'em all home in a bag and then assemble at home lol. We have Napa and CarQuest and similar shops here...but they don't cater as much to the DIY crowd. Yesterday was Kingpin installation. My first time ever doing old school bushings. I didn't want to hammer them in, so I used a piece of 1/2" fine threaded rod and it worked perfectly. After the bushing was about 1/3 of the way in I had to use a piece of pipe on my ratchet, but they still went in nice and smooth. My cheap Amazon adjustable reamer took some getting used to, but it worked OK in the end. I'm surprised about how much material actually had to be removed. It seemed like a lot to me. I didn't measure the bushing ID's once installed, but they're only 0.010" smaller than the OD of the pins prior to installation. Anyway, a reamer that was long enough to do both bushings at once would have been ideal, but mine was not. I had to do some finish work with sand paper, but I got a nice slip fit in the end. Today I'm on to reinstalling the drum brakes and doing wheel bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 Yesterday was Kingpin installation. My first time ever doing old school bushings. I didn't want to hammer them in, so I used a piece of 1/2" fine threaded rod and it worked perfectly. After the bushing was about 1/3 of the way in I had to use a piece of pipe on my ratchet, but they still went in nice and smooth. My cheap Amazon adjustable reamer took some getting used to, but it worked OK in the end. I'm surprised about how much material actually had to be removed. It seemed like a lot to me. I didn't measure the bushing ID's once installed, but they're only 0.010" smaller than the OD of the pins prior to installation. Anyway, a reamer that was long enough to do both bushings at once would have been ideal, but mine was not. I had to do some finish work with sand paper, but I got a nice slip fit in the end. Today I'm on to reinstalling the drum brakes and doing wheel bearings. Well done! I've not done that, but I've read that it can be a bear, so I'm glad your process worked so well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 Well done! I've not done that, but I've read that it can be a bear, so I'm glad your process worked so well. If I ever have to do mine again I will also use threaded rod, washers and nuts to press them in. I also have a reamer, still in the box, so hope it will go all the way thru to guide it. You got lucky that it only took sand paper to clean up to get the pins installed. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 9, 2022 Author Share Posted October 9, 2022 If I ever have to do mine again I will also use threaded rod, washers and nuts to press them in. I also have a reamer, still in the box, so hope it will go all the way thru to guide it. You got lucky that it only took sand paper to clean up to get the pins installed. Dave ---- Ya, since it was my first time doing them, I was pretty careful at first only adjusting my reamer very minimally each time I made a pass. I got the bushings so that the pin fit snugly in each one, but I then couldn't get the pin in both of them at the same time, so that's when I used the sand paper. I rolled up a full sheet, and then ran it back and forth through both bushings at the same time until the pin would slide through both bushings at the same. Not ideal, I know, but it worked with what I had on hand for tools and supplies. The reamer was only about $20 bucks on Amazon, and for what it was it seemed to work OK. The sand paper actually gave them a nice smooth finish on the inside as opposed to the reamer. Even with the reamer they weren't bad, but the sand paper smoothed them out nicely. We'll see how they do on the road though Dave, maybe they'll wear out in no time I don't know lol. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted October 9, 2022 Share Posted October 9, 2022 If I ever have to do mine again I will also use threaded rod, washers and nuts to press them in. I also have a reamer, still in the box, so hope it will go all the way thru to guide it. You got lucky that it only took sand paper to clean up to get the pins installed. Dave ---- Ya, since it was my first time doing them, I was pretty careful at first only adjusting my reamer very minimally each time I made a pass. I got the bushings so that the pin fit snugly in each one, but I then couldn't get the pin in both of them at the same time, so that's when I used the sand paper. I rolled up a full sheet, and then ran it back and forth through both bushings at the same time until the pin would slide through both bushings at the same. Not ideal, I know, but it worked with what I had on hand for tools and supplies. The reamer was only about $20 bucks on Amazon, and for what it was it seemed to work OK. The sand paper actually gave them a nice smooth finish on the inside as opposed to the reamer. Even with the reamer they weren't bad, but the sand paper smoothed them out nicely. We'll see how they do on the road though Dave, maybe they'll wear out in no time I don't know lol. Mine were so far off the pin would not even start in the other side. I used a wheel cly hone to hone them out but still needed to tap them in with a hammer. The weight of the bare spindle would make them flop from side to side (with a little help) so felt they were good. I did not want to go too much and all play to them. They have loosen up some the 2+ years the truck has been on the road but that is many 1000's of miles. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted October 29, 2022 Author Share Posted October 29, 2022 This poor old project has been on the back burner for weeks now. Busy at work, and working when I'm home, so there's been no time for the truck lately. Anyway, today I installed the TPS on my carb to test it out. I tried it previously but the hard piped tube was in the way, so I had to order some very expensive Holley fittings so I can run rubber fuel hose. They took a few weeks to arrive, and today I finally had time to try it out. Original setup... Barbed inlets instead of hard pipe: TPS installed: It's a Holley TPS kit on a Summit carb...but the Summit carb was previously a Holley 4010, which was previously an Autolite 4100, I think? Anyway, it fits OK but still needs some tweaking, and I found out that my choke cap is broken. The little brass base that the spring is attached to has broken loose from one of the rivets holding it to the plastic cap. So is life. I'm going to have to bend or modify the linkage a bit as it rubs on the back of the choke housing, and the adjustment screw doesn't sit evenly on the red plastic choke linkage. It fits on the engine fine and clears the valve cover with some extra room. So now I need to get a new choke cap and play with this thing a bit to get it working nice and smooth. For anybody that doesn't know, the whole purpose of the TPS on the carb is so that my throttle communicates with the Quick4 controller for my electronic 4R70W transmission. These days an auto trans is a requirement for me, as is overdrive. With gas at 7 bucks a gallon here, I'm not driving anything without OD. That's all from the busted knuckle garage today. Back to your regular Bullnose entertainment;). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 29, 2022 Share Posted October 29, 2022 This poor old project has been on the back burner for weeks now. Busy at work, and working when I'm home, so there's been no time for the truck lately. Anyway, today I installed the TPS on my carb to test it out. I tried it previously but the hard piped tube was in the way, so I had to order some very expensive Holley fittings so I can run rubber fuel hose. They took a few weeks to arrive, and today I finally had time to try it out. Original setup... Barbed inlets instead of hard pipe: TPS installed: It's a Holley TPS kit on a Summit carb...but the Summit carb was previously a Holley 4010, which was previously an Autolite 4100, I think? Anyway, it fits OK but still needs some tweaking, and I found out that my choke cap is broken. The little brass base that the spring is attached to has broken loose from one of the rivets holding it to the plastic cap. So is life. I'm going to have to bend or modify the linkage a bit as it rubs on the back of the choke housing, and the adjustment screw doesn't sit evenly on the red plastic choke linkage. It fits on the engine fine and clears the valve cover with some extra room. So now I need to get a new choke cap and play with this thing a bit to get it working nice and smooth. For anybody that doesn't know, the whole purpose of the TPS on the carb is so that my throttle communicates with the Quick4 controller for my electronic 4R70W transmission. These days an auto trans is a requirement for me, as is overdrive. With gas at 7 bucks a gallon here, I'm not driving anything without OD. That's all from the busted knuckle garage today. Back to your regular Bullnose entertainment;). I'm surprised those barb fittings were stupid expensive. They're only reverse flare on the bowl side, aren't they? Bill (LeBaronT2) is the one to ask. He seems to have the catalogues with all the thread pitches and tube flares noted. But.... Progress is Good!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 29, 2022 Share Posted October 29, 2022 This poor old project has been on the back burner for weeks now. Busy at work, and working when I'm home, so there's been no time for the truck lately. Anyway, today I installed the TPS on my carb to test it out. I tried it previously but the hard piped tube was in the way, so I had to order some very expensive Holley fittings so I can run rubber fuel hose. They took a few weeks to arrive, and today I finally had time to try it out. Original setup... Barbed inlets instead of hard pipe: TPS installed: It's a Holley TPS kit on a Summit carb...but the Summit carb was previously a Holley 4010, which was previously an Autolite 4100, I think? Anyway, it fits OK but still needs some tweaking, and I found out that my choke cap is broken. The little brass base that the spring is attached to has broken loose from one of the rivets holding it to the plastic cap. So is life. I'm going to have to bend or modify the linkage a bit as it rubs on the back of the choke housing, and the adjustment screw doesn't sit evenly on the red plastic choke linkage. It fits on the engine fine and clears the valve cover with some extra room. So now I need to get a new choke cap and play with this thing a bit to get it working nice and smooth. For anybody that doesn't know, the whole purpose of the TPS on the carb is so that my throttle communicates with the Quick4 controller for my electronic 4R70W transmission. These days an auto trans is a requirement for me, as is overdrive. With gas at 7 bucks a gallon here, I'm not driving anything without OD. That's all from the busted knuckle garage today. Back to your regular Bullnose entertainment;). Two steps forward and one back is still progress. And it does make sense that the Holley TPS fits given the heritage of that carb. But $7/gallon? Yikes! Even with the exchange rate that's over $5 US/gallon. Here its about $3.50. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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