Rembrant Posted March 19, 2023 Author Share Posted March 19, 2023 And not only do you not have to stop and top off the system when the engine starts, you know that there's no huge leak in the system that would prevent you from breaking the cam in. No cam break-in issues here Gary...this is a 1996 302 with roller cam. Just start-up and go! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BigBrother-84 Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 I don't think I posted pics yet, but here is what the engine bay looks like now. The engine bay wiring is almost 100% complete. I just need to install the oil pressure sender and then cut the wire to fit. After that, all I will have to do it connect the electric ran fan to the Derale controller. In any case, here's what it all looks like jammed into a 1952 engine bay (Radiator is not re-installed yet as it is much easier to work in there without it). In hindsight, I probably would have/should have done things differently. I added a lot of things that create a lot more work to install. I see loads of old street rods at the car shows and when you think about it, if all you need to wire up is a one-wire GM distributor with the coil on it, you're done! I added A LOT of electric items to this build that in hindsight I could have easily done without. Oh well, I'll know better for next time lol. Soooo nice job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 19, 2023 Share Posted March 19, 2023 And not only do you not have to stop and top off the system when the engine starts, you know that there's no huge leak in the system that would prevent you from breaking the cam in. No cam break-in issues here Gary...this is a 1996 302 with roller cam. Just start-up and go! Yep, I forgot that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 27, 2023 Author Share Posted March 27, 2023 And not only do you not have to stop and top off the system when the engine starts, you know that there's no huge leak in the system that would prevent you from breaking the cam in. No cam break-in issues here Gary...this is a 1996 302 with roller cam. Just start-up and go! Hi guys, I just started up my rebuilt 302 for the first time (yesterday actually) but did some further work on it this evening. It started up fairly easily once the fuel got going but it was idling high due to the choke, which was holding the throttle open a little bit. I disabled the electric choke so I could start it and let it warm up and set the low idle. I started it again, but it wasn't easy starting and backfired quite a bit. Once I got it running so it would almost idle, I hopped out and adjusted the idle screw in half a turn. It was idling and running smooth enough, but I then noticed the headers starting to glow red so I shut it down. They didn't get fully red or anything, they just started to at the sharp elbows next to the exhaust ports. I've been doing a bit of Googling and it seems like running lean and/or timing being way off (retarded) are possible issues?. I thought I'd come here and ask the experts to see what advice you have before I damage anything. What should I do next? I do have a timing light but I don't want to let it run if it's going to turn the headers red. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 27, 2023 Share Posted March 27, 2023 Hi guys, I just started up my rebuilt 302 for the first time (yesterday actually) but did some further work on it this evening. It started up fairly easily once the fuel got going but it was idling high due to the choke, which was holding the throttle open a little bit. I disabled the electric choke so I could start it and let it warm up and set the low idle. I started it again, but it wasn't easy starting and backfired quite a bit. Once I got it running so it would almost idle, I hopped out and adjusted the idle screw in half a turn. It was idling and running smooth enough, but I then noticed the headers starting to glow red so I shut it down. They didn't get fully red or anything, they just started to at the sharp elbows next to the exhaust ports. I've been doing a bit of Googling and it seems like running lean and/or timing being way off (retarded) are possible issues?. I thought I'd come here and ask the experts to see what advice you have before I damage anything. What should I do next? I do have a timing light but I don't want to let it run if it's going to turn the headers red. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks all. Glad you got it running. Bummer on the headers, but you'll get that sorted. I'm certainly not an expert, but I have also heard that lean makes things hot. So I'd be looking for a vacuum leak. You might be able to run it long enough to check for a leak w/o heating up the headers, but the smoke test would be a better way to look for one. But where do you have the timing set? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 Glad you got it running. Bummer on the headers, but you'll get that sorted. I'm certainly not an expert, but I have also heard that lean makes things hot. So I'd be looking for a vacuum leak. You might be able to run it long enough to check for a leak w/o heating up the headers, but the smoke test would be a better way to look for one. But where do you have the timing set? Good to hear you got it running even if it is not 100% yet. Me I would bump the timing up by ear and / or vacuum gauge as a start. You have to run it to get a light on it and why I said just bump it up. As for the lean this was at idle what was the RPM at? The only time I have seen headers glow is on cam break in where the RPM is 2000 to 2500 and cant shut it down. Do you have a AFR gauge? If not how will you know if it is running lean? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted March 28, 2023 Author Share Posted March 28, 2023 Good to hear you got it running even if it is not 100% yet. Me I would bump the timing up by ear and / or vacuum gauge as a start. You have to run it to get a light on it and why I said just bump it up. As for the lean this was at idle what was the RPM at? The only time I have seen headers glow is on cam break in where the RPM is 2000 to 2500 and cant shut it down. Do you have a AFR gauge? If not how will you know if it is running lean? Dave ---- It was the timing! The Googles were right! Timing was way too retarded so too much fuel was ended up in the exhaust where it was getting burned! I still didn't put the timing light on it, but I cranked it ahead and it started right up at the touch of the key and idled fine. No backfiring and no overheating headers. I let it idle until it warmed up and the thermostat opened. My IR temp gun is not great and it wouldn't read the shiny surface of the Champion radiator, but I knew the radiator was at least 195F and my electric fan wasn't coming on so I shut it down. Did a little digging and I have a minor wiring issue I need to correct. The Painless wiring harness comes with wiring for a fan relay, so I used that as the IGN trigger wire for my Derale fan controller. I didn't realize until I dug into the instructions that the trigger wire is supposed to be connected to a temp switch. So I basically just need to tie two wires together in the cab and that will cure that issue. Tomorrow's problems! @Gary - I did throw the meter probes on the battery while it was idling so nicely and I'm seeing 14.7 volts, so I can only assume my old 3G alternator is wired up correctly! The battery rests on it's own at around 12.4 volts. So it's starting and idling good now, and the oil pressure and coolant seem to be OK (Thermostat opened at 195F). 3G Alternator is working, and my power steering is working so far (not leaking). We'll see how it is on the road. I now have 12 quarts of Mercon V added to the 4R70W trans, and it isn't leaking. So next step is to get the radiator fan controller working and dialed in to the correct temp setting (I'm going to start with it around 200F, I think). Then I can let it run long enough to get the base timing and idle set. Then I need to test the transmission controller. Finally, fill with brake fluid and see how many leaks I have there...lol. Test drive this weekend perhaps! Thanks for listening all while I work through all the layers to getting this thing on the road;). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted March 28, 2023 Share Posted March 28, 2023 It was the timing! The Googles were right! Timing was way too retarded so too much fuel was ended up in the exhaust where it was getting burned! I still didn't put the timing light on it, but I cranked it ahead and it started right up at the touch of the key and idled fine. No backfiring and no overheating headers. I let it idle until it warmed up and the thermostat opened. My IR temp gun is not great and it wouldn't read the shiny surface of the Champion radiator, but I knew the radiator was at least 195F and my electric fan wasn't coming on so I shut it down. Did a little digging and I have a minor wiring issue I need to correct. The Painless wiring harness comes with wiring for a fan relay, so I used that as the IGN trigger wire for my Derale fan controller. I didn't realize until I dug into the instructions that the trigger wire is supposed to be connected to a temp switch. So I basically just need to tie two wires together in the cab and that will cure that issue. Tomorrow's problems! @Gary - I did throw the meter probes on the battery while it was idling so nicely and I'm seeing 14.7 volts, so I can only assume my old 3G alternator is wired up correctly! The battery rests on it's own at around 12.4 volts. So it's starting and idling good now, and the oil pressure and coolant seem to be OK (Thermostat opened at 195F). 3G Alternator is working, and my power steering is working so far (not leaking). We'll see how it is on the road. I now have 12 quarts of Mercon V added to the 4R70W trans, and it isn't leaking. So next step is to get the radiator fan controller working and dialed in to the correct temp setting (I'm going to start with it around 200F, I think). Then I can let it run long enough to get the base timing and idle set. Then I need to test the transmission controller. Finally, fill with brake fluid and see how many leaks I have there...lol. Test drive this weekend perhaps! Thanks for listening all while I work through all the layers to getting this thing on the road;). Awesome! This truck is going to be cool! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 29, 2023 Share Posted March 29, 2023 It was the timing! The Googles were right! Timing was way too retarded so too much fuel was ended up in the exhaust where it was getting burned! I still didn't put the timing light on it, but I cranked it ahead and it started right up at the touch of the key and idled fine. No backfiring and no overheating headers. I let it idle until it warmed up and the thermostat opened. My IR temp gun is not great and it wouldn't read the shiny surface of the Champion radiator, but I knew the radiator was at least 195F and my electric fan wasn't coming on so I shut it down. Did a little digging and I have a minor wiring issue I need to correct. The Painless wiring harness comes with wiring for a fan relay, so I used that as the IGN trigger wire for my Derale fan controller. I didn't realize until I dug into the instructions that the trigger wire is supposed to be connected to a temp switch. So I basically just need to tie two wires together in the cab and that will cure that issue. Tomorrow's problems! @Gary - I did throw the meter probes on the battery while it was idling so nicely and I'm seeing 14.7 volts, so I can only assume my old 3G alternator is wired up correctly! The battery rests on it's own at around 12.4 volts. So it's starting and idling good now, and the oil pressure and coolant seem to be OK (Thermostat opened at 195F). 3G Alternator is working, and my power steering is working so far (not leaking). We'll see how it is on the road. I now have 12 quarts of Mercon V added to the 4R70W trans, and it isn't leaking. So next step is to get the radiator fan controller working and dialed in to the correct temp setting (I'm going to start with it around 200F, I think). Then I can let it run long enough to get the base timing and idle set. Then I need to test the transmission controller. Finally, fill with brake fluid and see how many leaks I have there...lol. Test drive this weekend perhaps! Thanks for listening all while I work through all the layers to getting this thing on the road;). Yippee!!! Glad you got the timing corrected, and things are coming together. I'll be you are anxious for the weekend! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 29, 2023 Share Posted March 29, 2023 Yippee!!! Glad you got the timing corrected, and things are coming together. I'll be you are anxious for the weekend! If you did not have a few little issues you would have a big one Cant wait for the test drive report. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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