Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

[Rembrant]

I'm surprised those barb fittings were stupid expensive. They're only reverse flare on the bowl side, aren't they?

They're not even flared...they seal with a washer.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-26-24

I shouldn't say that the items themselves were stupid expensive, but two of them were $31 and then another $31 to ship them, times 1.4 FX and tax, they cost me about $90 delivered LOL.

But $7/gallon? Yikes! Even with the exchange rate that's over $5 US/gallon. Here its about $3.50.

Well, $1.763 per liter this week, whatever that works out to. I had it as $7 bucks in my head, but maybe not quite that bad currently.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I'm surprised those barb fittings were stupid expensive. They're only reverse flare on the bowl side, aren't they?

They're not even flared...they seal with a washer.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hly-26-24

I shouldn't say that the items themselves were stupid expensive, but two of them were $31 and then another $31 to ship them, times 1.4 FX and tax, they cost me about $90 delivered LOL.

But $7/gallon? Yikes! Even with the exchange rate that's over $5 US/gallon. Here its about $3.50.

Well, $1.763 per liter this week, whatever that works out to. I had it as $7 bucks in my head, but maybe not quite that bad currently.

My math says that's $4.89 US/gallon. But my degree is over 50 years old and I hear there is a new math, so...

[Rembrant]

My math says that's $4.89 US/gallon. But my degree is over 50 years old and I hear there is a new math, so...

Ya, so about $6.70 CAN for me. Not quite seven bucks, but close enough.

I just got a company vehicle again....a Dodge Ram that I really dislike, but it came with a company gas card too, so I'm OK with it. I sold my Tacoma (which wasn't great on fuel) and my wife works at home, so our gas bills are relatively low these days. Still, they're worth complaining about.

A big part of the reason for installing a trans with OD in my old '52 project truck is so that I can drive it (a lot), and potentially take it on trips. If it gets anywhere near what this Hemi ram gets for MPG, I'll be happy, but I'm not optimistic about it.

 

[Gary Lewis]

My math says that's $4.89 US/gallon. But my degree is over 50 years old and I hear there is a new math, so...

Ya, so about $6.70 CAN for me. Not quite seven bucks, but close enough.

I just got a company vehicle again....a Dodge Ram that I really dislike, but it came with a company gas card too, so I'm OK with it. I sold my Tacoma (which wasn't great on fuel) and my wife works at home, so our gas bills are relatively low these days. Still, they're worth complaining about.

A big part of the reason for installing a trans with OD in my old '52 project truck is so that I can drive it (a lot), and potentially take it on trips. If it gets anywhere near what this Hemi ram gets for MPG, I'll be happy, but I'm not optimistic about it.

Depending on the speeds you drive I'd expect 15 - 17 with your project truck. What does the Ram get?

Btw, speaking of Ram, doesn't it feel strange to run around with the equivalent of a Kick Me sign on your rear?

[Rembrant]

Depending on the speeds you drive I'd expect 15 - 17 with your project truck. What does the Ram get?

Btw, speaking of Ram, doesn't it feel strange to run around with the equivalent of a Kick Me sign on your rear?

I've only put a couple thousand miles on it since I got it, but so far it has been hitting 18-19 MPG. That's with a mix of city and hwy. With a full tank on the hwy it'll probably do 20 if I balloon foot it. I believe the truck has the MDS, or multi-displacement-system that deactivates 4 of the 8 cylinders under low load for saving fuel. Otherwise, I thought the Hemi's were PIG'S on fuel, but this one seems to be OK. It's a 2018 with about 40k miles on it.

As for the kick me sign...hahaha...well, I'm not overly brand loyal to anything, but I have never owned or particularly liked Dodge trucks. I like the old tin grilled Power Wagons of the 1970's, but the newer ones not so much. It's a nice truck to drive and all, but coming from a Toyota Tacoma it feels a bit loose and clunky to me. I had a 2006 F150 company truck for quite a few years, and it was a decent rig. I'd prefer an F150 over a Dodge, but beggars can't be choosers as they say. If the company is buying I'll take what they're offering lol.

As for the '52 Merc mileage, I guess we will see. Will it be more or less aerodynamic than my Bullnose trucks? It's about the same weight as my '84 Flareside was. I have high hopes for the 500CFM Summit carb on the basically stock 5.0 with the later F4 cam. The 4R70W has a taller OD than the M5OD, but this truck has 3.55 gears compared to my old Bullnose with the 3.08's. In any case, I'd be happy with mid to high teens MPG, and absolutely ecstatic if it hit 20 MPG, but I'm not crossing my fingers on that one.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Depending on the speeds you drive I'd expect 15 - 17 with your project truck. What does the Ram get?

Btw, speaking of Ram, doesn't it feel strange to run around with the equivalent of a Kick Me sign on your rear?

I've only put a couple thousand miles on it since I got it, but so far it has been hitting 18-19 MPG. That's with a mix of city and hwy. With a full tank on the hwy it'll probably do 20 if I balloon foot it. I believe the truck has the MDS, or multi-displacement-system that deactivates 4 of the 8 cylinders under low load for saving fuel. Otherwise, I thought the Hemi's were PIG'S on fuel, but this one seems to be OK. It's a 2018 with about 40k miles on it.

As for the kick me sign...hahaha...well, I'm not overly brand loyal to anything, but I have never owned or particularly liked Dodge trucks. I like the old tin grilled Power Wagons of the 1970's, but the newer ones not so much. It's a nice truck to drive and all, but coming from a Toyota Tacoma it feels a bit loose and clunky to me. I had a 2006 F150 company truck for quite a few years, and it was a decent rig. I'd prefer an F150 over a Dodge, but beggars can't be choosers as they say. If the company is buying I'll take what they're offering lol.

As for the '52 Merc mileage, I guess we will see. Will it be more or less aerodynamic than my Bullnose trucks? It's about the same weight as my '84 Flareside was. I have high hopes for the 500CFM Summit carb on the basically stock 5.0 with the later F4 cam. The 4R70W has a taller OD than the M5OD, but this truck has 3.55 gears compared to my old Bullnose with the 3.08's. In any case, I'd be happy with mid to high teens MPG, and absolutely ecstatic if it hit 20 MPG, but I'm not crossing my fingers on that one.

I had a Chrysler 300C with the Hemi & MDS as a company car when I was working and it routinely got 20+ MPG on the highway. Loved that car as it went like a banshee and looked wonderful. But it had plenty of technical glitches as well.

I think you'll see in the mid to high teens on your Merc. It isn't aerodynamic, but neither is a Bullnose, and some of them will get in that range of MPG. I think one of the keys will be the driving conditions - reasonable speeds with not a lot of stop and go will obviously be best. Is that the kind of driving you do?

[Rembrant]

Depending on the speeds you drive I'd expect 15 - 17 with your project truck. What does the Ram get?

Btw, speaking of Ram, doesn't it feel strange to run around with the equivalent of a Kick Me sign on your rear?

I've only put a couple thousand miles on it since I got it, but so far it has been hitting 18-19 MPG. That's with a mix of city and hwy. With a full tank on the hwy it'll probably do 20 if I balloon foot it. I believe the truck has the MDS, or multi-displacement-system that deactivates 4 of the 8 cylinders under low load for saving fuel. Otherwise, I thought the Hemi's were PIG'S on fuel, but this one seems to be OK. It's a 2018 with about 40k miles on it.

As for the kick me sign...hahaha...well, I'm not overly brand loyal to anything, but I have never owned or particularly liked Dodge trucks. I like the old tin grilled Power Wagons of the 1970's, but the newer ones not so much. It's a nice truck to drive and all, but coming from a Toyota Tacoma it feels a bit loose and clunky to me. I had a 2006 F150 company truck for quite a few years, and it was a decent rig. I'd prefer an F150 over a Dodge, but beggars can't be choosers as they say. If the company is buying I'll take what they're offering lol.

As for the '52 Merc mileage, I guess we will see. Will it be more or less aerodynamic than my Bullnose trucks? It's about the same weight as my '84 Flareside was. I have high hopes for the 500CFM Summit carb on the basically stock 5.0 with the later F4 cam. The 4R70W has a taller OD than the M5OD, but this truck has 3.55 gears compared to my old Bullnose with the 3.08's. In any case, I'd be happy with mid to high teens MPG, and absolutely ecstatic if it hit 20 MPG, but I'm not crossing my fingers on that one.

Gentlemen,

I'm starting to do some preliminary wiring (RE-wiring) of my '52 pickup. I have completely gutted all wiring and I'm installing a new Painless Performance complete wiring kit. One little hiccup I have run into is the heater blower fan. The truck will be complete 12v now, but the blower motor will still be the original 6v (I can't find a 12v motor for it).

There is currently only one wire going from the switch to the fan motor, and the motor is grounded to the heater housing via short wire (according to the diagrams). The truck was previously converted to 12v, but everything inside the cab was left at 6v, and I don't know what they did with the lights...most of them were burned out when I got the truck. The original starter spun insanely fast, so I assume it was the original 6v starter with 12v being supplied to it. Anyway...those issues are all gone now, and the blower motor is all that remains.

There was one of these little aftermarket voltage reducers clipped to the dash, so I assume this was installed for the blower fan since the blower fan did actually work.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ru100

I could probably reuse it, but it is only rated for 4amps, and the blower motor draws 10amps according to the factory service manual.

I was looking at this little 12v-6v adapter below...seems neat and tidy and cheap:

https://www.amazon.ca/MGGi-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B08BXFC6MD/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=EYQog&content-id=amzn1.sym.b09e9731-f0de-43db-b62a-8954bcec282c&pf_rd_p=b09e9731-f0de-43db-b62a-8954bcec282c&pf_rd_r=ZYJD8HEKVNHE80N9WZE1&pd_rd_wg=f8zda&pd_rd_r=eafed8b9-f0b6-4e79-9571-a38335d54ff8&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&th=1

The truck also has the blower switch installed currently:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-hs98

That's a lot of rambling, I know lol. I guess my question is...everything is currently set up for one wire operation. The voltage reducer, the switch, and the fan. If I buy the 10amp Amazon voltage reducer, which is two wire, what do I do with the 12v negative wire?

I assume I would wire the negative wire directly to the fan motor, and bypass the switch (since the switch it setup for one wire operation only). Run the v+ through the switch...but would I have the switch on the 12v side or the 6v side? Does it matter?

Probably confusing, I know. This is the one snag I have run into with my wiring so far.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gentlemen,

I'm starting to do some preliminary wiring (RE-wiring) of my '52 pickup. I have completely gutted all wiring and I'm installing a new Painless Performance complete wiring kit. One little hiccup I have run into is the heater blower fan. The truck will be complete 12v now, but the blower motor will still be the original 6v (I can't find a 12v motor for it).

There is currently only one wire going from the switch to the fan motor, and the motor is grounded to the heater housing via short wire (according to the diagrams). The truck was previously converted to 12v, but everything inside the cab was left at 6v, and I don't know what they did with the lights...most of them were burned out when I got the truck. The original starter spun insanely fast, so I assume it was the original 6v starter with 12v being supplied to it. Anyway...those issues are all gone now, and the blower motor is all that remains.

There was one of these little aftermarket voltage reducers clipped to the dash, so I assume this was installed for the blower fan since the blower fan did actually work.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-ru100

I could probably reuse it, but it is only rated for 4amps, and the blower motor draws 10amps according to the factory service manual.

I was looking at this little 12v-6v adapter below...seems neat and tidy and cheap:

https://www.amazon.ca/MGGi-Converter-Regulator-Transformer-Waterproof/dp/B08BXFC6MD/?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_w=EYQog&content-id=amzn1.sym.b09e9731-f0de-43db-b62a-8954bcec282c&pf_rd_p=b09e9731-f0de-43db-b62a-8954bcec282c&pf_rd_r=ZYJD8HEKVNHE80N9WZE1&pd_rd_wg=f8zda&pd_rd_r=eafed8b9-f0b6-4e79-9571-a38335d54ff8&ref_=pd_gw_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m&th=1

The truck also has the blower switch installed currently:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/smp-hs98

That's a lot of rambling, I know lol. I guess my question is...everything is currently set up for one wire operation. The voltage reducer, the switch, and the fan. If I buy the 10amp Amazon voltage reducer, which is two wire, what do I do with the 12v negative wire?

I assume I would wire the negative wire directly to the fan motor, and bypass the switch (since the switch it setup for one wire operation only). Run the v+ through the switch...but would I have the switch on the 12v side or the 6v side? Does it matter?

Probably confusing, I know. This is the one snag I have run into with my wiring so far.

Cory, the Amazon.US page for that MGGI voltage converter says the negative wires are not isolated and can be bonded together.

I'd leave the motor grounded to the housing and bond both negatives to the truck.

Personally I'd put the resistor on the output. The converter is listed as having an input range of 9-35V dc.

But it is solid state and will want to be regulating that variable input to 6V, so putting the resistor on the input isn't going to effect the output until you get below the 9V threshold, and at that point it will probably just switch off.

Also note it says that it is 'not to be used long time at full load', but doesn't give a duty cycle.

So the "dumb" 4A regulator might be overheating at 10A draw but continue to function, while the solid state unit might just trip the safety.

 

[Gary Lewis]

Cory, the Amazon.US page for that MGGI voltage converter says the negative wires are not isolated and can be bonded together.

I'd leave the motor grounded to the housing and bond both negatives to the truck.

Personally I'd put the resistor on the output. The converter is listed as having an input range of 9-35V dc.

But it is solid state and will want to be regulating that variable input to 6V, so putting the resistor on the input isn't going to effect the output until you get below the 9V threshold, and at that point it will probably just switch off.

Also note it says that it is 'not to be used long time at full load', but doesn't give a duty cycle.

So the "dumb" 4A regulator might be overheating at 10A draw but continue to function, while the solid state unit might just trip the safety.

I agree with Jim the whole way - connect the negatives on the MGGi unit and put them to ground and leave the blower motor grounded as it is. Then use the existing switch/resistor on the output of the MGGi unit so it gets full battery voltage.

[BigBrother-84]

Cory, the Amazon.US page for that MGGI voltage converter says the negative wires are not isolated and can be bonded together.

I'd leave the motor grounded to the housing and bond both negatives to the truck.

Personally I'd put the resistor on the output. The converter is listed as having an input range of 9-35V dc.

But it is solid state and will want to be regulating that variable input to 6V, so putting the resistor on the input isn't going to effect the output until you get below the 9V threshold, and at that point it will probably just switch off.

Also note it says that it is 'not to be used long time at full load', but doesn't give a duty cycle.

So the "dumb" 4A regulator might be overheating at 10A draw but continue to function, while the solid state unit might just trip the safety.

Cory's questions are very interesting. Jim and Gary, what about the switch position?

There is no specification about the output it delivers, no more about the voltage it is built for. Just a precision about 10amp rating.

Do we have to assume it is a "normal" 12V vehicle switch?

If so, I am curious about how its position in the circuit will affect the result. It is not a simple on/off switch, since it delivers low and high "speeds" to the blower. Which current (V? A?) will it deliver if placed before or after the voltage reducer? What will be the final "low and high" output to the fan?

Another question Cory has is the ground strategy. I never questioned myself about this, but I always assumed a car body is a 12V electrical circuit, an extension of its negative battery pole. But Cory made me realize that I could probably make different electrical current (6V, 12V, 120V, 240V) to transit by a same unique metal "ground" piece, and close their own circuit with their own positive pole?