Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

[kramttocs]

Cory - You are highly encouraged to hang out here!

As for locating the engine, installing the engine and tranny multiple times would be a pain! Did you have to dangle them from the engine hoist while you slid around underneath to see where the bent pipes would fit?

But I'm glad you found a place that will work. Maybe now the enthusiasm for the project will come back?

Subscribed. I'd missed this thread so had to do some high level catching up. Absolutely incredible Cory!

I'll look over the shroud info you provided in the other thread and then reply here so you don't have to discuss the same thing in two places.

[Rembrant]

Subscribed. I'd missed this thread so had to do some high level catching up. Absolutely incredible Cory!

I'll look over the shroud info you provided in the other thread and then reply here so you don't have to discuss the same thing in two places.

Big box arrived from Summit yesterday, and this new carb was one of the items in it. I have been wanting to try this carb for several years now. It's a 500CFM 4bbl with annular boosters. For the carb nerds...I guess the old Autolite 4100 became a Holley 4010 briefly, and is now being sold under the Summit brand. I'm quite excited to try it. I have to install a TPS on it, and fingers crossed that it works...more to come on that.

My goal has always been MPG, which is why this carb has been on my radar. MPG was important to me a few years ago, when gas was cheap by comparison...ugh. Anyway, what I'm aiming for is the best engine operation from idle to about 2500 RPM as that is where I'll be 99% of the time. This truck is just a cruiser.

 

[BigBrother-84]

Subscribed. I'd missed this thread so had to do some high level catching up. Absolutely incredible Cory!

Same for me!

Curious about the carb swap. You certainly specified it earlier but I didn’t see. What MPG presently, and what are your hopes with this swap?

[Gary Lewis]

Big box arrived from Summit yesterday, and this new carb was one of the items in it. I have been wanting to try this carb for several years now. It's a 500CFM 4bbl with annular boosters. For the carb nerds...I guess the old Autolite 4100 became a Holley 4010 briefly, and is now being sold under the Summit brand. I'm quite excited to try it. I have to install a TPS on it, and fingers crossed that it works...more to come on that.

My goal has always been MPG, which is why this carb has been on my radar. MPG was important to me a few years ago, when gas was cheap by comparison...ugh. Anyway, what I'm aiming for is the best engine operation from idle to about 2500 RPM as that is where I'll be 99% of the time. This truck is just a cruiser.

Looks like a cross between a normal Holley and the Autolite. But keeping the best parts of the Autolite, like the lack of gaskets holding the gas in.

Should be good for efficiency.

[Rembrant]

Curious about the carb swap. You certainly specified it earlier but I didn’t see. What MPG presently, and what are your hopes with this swap?

Oh...this isn't a carb swap, this is a new install. I've had a bunch of Bullnoses, but this one is my '52 Mercury M1 pickup (Just a Canadian version of a Ford F1). It had the original 239 V8 flathead in it when I bought it with an Offenhauser intake an Holley 2bbl carb. I have since removed and sold that engine (as well as the transmission behind it) and I'm in the process of installing a roller block 5.0 and 4R70W 4spd auto trans from a 1996 F150 pickup.

 

[Rembrant]

Curious about the carb swap. You certainly specified it earlier but I didn’t see. What MPG presently, and what are your hopes with this swap?

Oh...this isn't a carb swap, this is a new install. I've had a bunch of Bullnoses, but this one is my '52 Mercury M1 pickup (Just a Canadian version of a Ford F1). It had the original 239 V8 flathead in it when I bought it with an Offenhauser intake an Holley 2bbl carb. I have since removed and sold that engine (as well as the transmission behind it) and I'm in the process of installing a roller block 5.0 and 4R70W 4spd auto trans from a 1996 F150 pickup.

Dragged more Ford junk home this weekend. I've had this for months, but it was in storage at my work.

This is an 8.8 rearend out of a 2001 Ford Explorer. It has 3.55 gears (open) and 31 spline axles same as the trucks (which makes these rear diffs very desirable for custom swaps). It is also has disk brakes. I jumped on this diff when I found it specifically because of the 3.55 gears. A lot of the Explorers had 3.73's and 4.10's depending on the engines. This one was a 5.0 V8 2wd, so I guess it was better set up for the taller 3.55's.

Anyway, the reason I wanted 3.55's is because the 1996 F150 truck(s) that my 5.0L and 4R70W trans came out of also had 3.55's, so everything should work fairly well together.

The Explorer diff is not a direct swap. From the factory they had the leaf springs under the axle, so I'll have to cut those spring pads off, and weld new ones on top. I'll also have to weld on shock mounts as the axle does not have them currently.

Of course, being a junkyard diff, it has one broken wheel stud, so it looks like I'll be pulling an axle to fix that. Otherwise it is (supposedly) a lower mileage unit with only 80k or so miles on it.

Anyway, there's always something to cut and grind...

[mat in tn]

Dragged more Ford junk home this weekend. I've had this for months, but it was in storage at my work.

This is an 8.8 rearend out of a 2001 Ford Explorer. It has 3.55 gears (open) and 31 spline axles same as the trucks (which makes these rear diffs very desirable for custom swaps). It is also has disk brakes. I jumped on this diff when I found it specifically because of the 3.55 gears. A lot of the Explorers had 3.73's and 4.10's depending on the engines. This one was a 5.0 V8 2wd, so I guess it was better set up for the taller 3.55's.

Anyway, the reason I wanted 3.55's is because the 1996 F150 truck(s) that my 5.0L and 4R70W trans came out of also had 3.55's, so everything should work fairly well together.

The Explorer diff is not a direct swap. From the factory they had the leaf springs under the axle, so I'll have to cut those spring pads off, and weld new ones on top. I'll also have to weld on shock mounts as the axle does not have them currently.

Of course, being a junkyard diff, it has one broken wheel stud, so it looks like I'll be pulling an axle to fix that. Otherwise it is (supposedly) a lower mileage unit with only 80k or so miles on it.

Anyway, there's always something to cut and grind...

I believe you can swap broken studs in place. no need to remove the axle. remove the caliper and that should be enough.

[kramttocs]

I believe you can swap broken studs in place. no need to remove the axle. remove the caliper and that should be enough.

Taking a tangent here but we discussed radiator fans a few days ago.

Did some looking at the radiator you have and the shroud from Champion.

If you can accommodate a 3.5" fan, the Spal 2049 is the way to go. More cfm and quieter. 2024 cfm vs 1469 of their 1516 upgrade.

If that 1" is pushing it but the 2.5" fits, the 1516 upgrade would still be worth it over the generic one.

Spal has a catalog with the specs. The Spals I have (2038) show as 1640 cfm but my tests put it right around 2000 so the numbers above may be conservative also.

I spoke with George at Leadfoot Racing who confirmed the details Spal had told me about the straight, s-curve, and paddle blades so if you call and talk to them, he'd be a good one to ask for.

All of these would require a fan controller with Derale 16797 being one to look at. It has a stick on temp sensor which sounds like it would work best for you also.

 

[Rembrant]

If you can accommodate a 3.5" fan, the Spal 2049 is the way to go. More cfm and quieter. 2024 cfm vs 1469 of their 1516 upgrade.

If that 1" is pushing it but the 2.5" fits, the 1516 upgrade would still be worth it over the generic one.

Spal has a catalog with the specs.

Ha! I actually have exactly 3.75" clearance from the end of the water pump shaft and the fins of the radiator. When they say that a fan is 3.5", is that including the thickness of the shroud too? I would have a 1/4" more or so if the end of the water pump shaft is not in the way. Next stop after that is the water pump pulley bolt heads. The 1516 unit would likely do me fine.

I'll check that controller also. Thanks for the info, very much appreciated. I'll have to order this stuff soon.

 

[Nothing Special]

If you can accommodate a 3.5" fan, the Spal 2049 is the way to go. More cfm and quieter. 2024 cfm vs 1469 of their 1516 upgrade.

If that 1" is pushing it but the 2.5" fits, the 1516 upgrade would still be worth it over the generic one.

Spal has a catalog with the specs.

Ha! I actually have exactly 3.75" clearance from the end of the water pump shaft and the fins of the radiator. When they say that a fan is 3.5", is that including the thickness of the shroud too? I would have a 1/4" more or so if the end of the water pump shaft is not in the way. Next stop after that is the water pump pulley bolt heads. The 1516 unit would likely do me fine.

I'll check that controller also. Thanks for the info, very much appreciated. I'll have to order this stuff soon.

Does the 2049 fan need to be centered in the radiator? I ask because when I had a serpentine belt system from a later ('90s?) F-150 on my Bronco I had very little room between my water pump shaft and radiator. The only way I could fit any fan was to offset the fan so the thickest part of the fan didn't fall in the area with the least clearance.