Rembrant's new non-Bullnose project

[Rembrant]

I don't think you'll have any problem driving a 95A alternator with a polygroove belt Cory.

If the 93 1/2" (2.375m) belt fits I would say "less parts is less to go wrong!".

And it would really clean up the visible part of the engine if you were able to lose the idler....

Progress is GOOD! 😉

Jim, agreed on all counts. This is the stock alternator for this engine, so it should be fine...now even more so with more belt wrapped around the pulley.

I was really trying to minimize the extras on this engine...I have very little room to work with under the hood of this truck. A cleaner and tighter serpentine belt was preferred, but also needed.

[ArdWrknTrk]

RockAuto to the rescue! I finally have a winner with this alternate belt routing. A 93.5" belt fits perfectly, and the tensioner is only at about 50% travel, maybe even a hair less. This should do the trick. I don't know how common this belt drive swap will be on the older trucks, but this is one way to run a 94-96 SBF serpentine belt (when smog pump is removed).

. That looks like it's going to work great Cory!

You have a pretty unique truck, and always have an interesting approach to resto-mods.

Thanks for keeping us updated.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't think you'll have any problem driving a 95A alternator with a polygroove belt Cory.

If the 93 1/2" (2.375m) belt fits I would say "less parts is less to go wrong!".

And it would really clean up the visible part of the engine if you were able to lose the idler....

Progress is GOOD! 😉

Jim, agreed on all counts. This is the stock alternator for this engine, so it should be fine...now even more so with more belt wrapped around the pulley.

I was really trying to minimize the extras on this engine...I have very little room to work with under the hood of this truck. A cleaner and tighter serpentine belt was preferred, but also needed.

That looks great! Clean even.

[Rembrant]

. That looks like it's going to work great Cory!

You have a pretty unique truck, and always have an interesting approach to resto-mods.

Thanks for keeping us updated.

Thanks Jim!

I like the serpentine drive, but it sure is big and bulky compared to the basic v-belt system it replaced. It's a massive chunk hanging on the front of the little 5.0 V8. This truck had factory AC, but I just have an AC delete pulley kit on there for now (and maybe forever lol). I have the stock AC compressor and lines, but my plan is to take the original aluminum block that attaches to the back of the pump, and have it machined so that it will accept AN fittings. That way I can use the Ford factory pump with an aftermarket AC system (or at least that is my long term plan).

I had the local hydraulic shop make me a -6AN Metric fitting for my C2 power steering pump. The basically took a standard M16 fitting and he machined a groove to fit a nylon seal washer, same as the factory fitting had.

The Ford CII pump is going to be running a power steering box from an old Toyota 4x4 with the solid front axle (1979-1985). I'm working on finishing this install this weekend. I'm having the original steering shaft machined to fit a Borgeson double u-joint that is 3/4" DD on the input side, and 17mm splined on the drive side.

I'm not splittin' any atoms here or anything...this is all stuff car builders have been as long as I've been alive. The only reason I mention it all is that I'm working towards getting the 5.0 and AOD-E/W fitted into the truck, but I have to finish the Toyota steering box swap and serpentine system installation before I can place the engine. I don't have a ton of space to work with, so everything has to fit just so.

One thing I'm still not 100% on, and would appreciate your thoughts on, is driveshaft side to side angle. I'm installing an Ford 8.8 diff out of a 2001 Ford Explorer. It's fine, but the pinion is offset 2" to the passenger side. This is perfectly fine in a truck like a Bullnose as the engine is also offset 2" to the passenger side, ensuring the driveline is all straight back. I know there are several reasons for why they do this, but the fact remains that the driveline is straight. I'm still not sure yet whether I'm going to center my engine, or offset it once inch, or maybe even 2" if I have enough room. I'm fully aware of setting the transmission (down) and differential (up) pinion angles, but can you add a sideways offset to that, by 1" or 2"? I've read where some people say it doesn't matter, and that their truck works just fine that way. That's all well and good...but I know a lot of guys that drive around with vibrations in their vehicles that they don't even notice...lol.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Jim!

I like the serpentine drive, but it sure is big and bulky compared to the basic v-belt system it replaced. It's a massive chunk hanging on the front of the little 5.0 V8. This truck had factory AC, but I just have an AC delete pulley kit on there for now (and maybe forever lol). I have the stock AC compressor and lines, but my plan is to take the original aluminum block that attaches to the back of the pump, and have it machined so that it will accept AN fittings. That way I can use the Ford factory pump with an aftermarket AC system (or at least that is my long term plan).

I had the local hydraulic shop make me a -6AN Metric fitting for my C2 power steering pump. The basically took a standard M16 fitting and he machined a groove to fit a nylon seal washer, same as the factory fitting had.

The Ford CII pump is going to be running a power steering box from an old Toyota 4x4 with the solid front axle (1979-1985). I'm working on finishing this install this weekend. I'm having the original steering shaft machined to fit a Borgeson double u-joint that is 3/4" DD on the input side, and 17mm splined on the drive side.

I'm not splittin' any atoms here or anything...this is all stuff car builders have been as long as I've been alive. The only reason I mention it all is that I'm working towards getting the 5.0 and AOD-E/W fitted into the truck, but I have to finish the Toyota steering box swap and serpentine system installation before I can place the engine. I don't have a ton of space to work with, so everything has to fit just so.

One thing I'm still not 100% on, and would appreciate your thoughts on, is driveshaft side to side angle. I'm installing an Ford 8.8 diff out of a 2001 Ford Explorer. It's fine, but the pinion is offset 2" to the passenger side. This is perfectly fine in a truck like a Bullnose as the engine is also offset 2" to the passenger side, ensuring the driveline is all straight back. I know there are several reasons for why they do this, but the fact remains that the driveline is straight. I'm still not sure yet whether I'm going to center my engine, or offset it once inch, or maybe even 2" if I have enough room. I'm fully aware of setting the transmission (down) and differential (up) pinion angles, but can you add a sideways offset to that, by 1" or 2"? I've read where some people say it doesn't matter, and that their truck works just fine that way. That's all well and good...but I know a lot of guys that drive around with vibrations in their vehicles that they don't even notice...lol.

If the U- joint angles aren't the same (complimentary) the drive shaft will be trying to go at different speeds at each end, at some point in it's rotation.

I suppose many people don't believe this (or get away with it for a while) but it's a mechanical fact.

If the angle is the same on both ends and the drive line is phased correctly you should be ok.

Otherwise consider a double cardan output like you would find in a Bronco.

 

[Rembrant]

If the U- joint angles aren't the same (complimentary) the drive shaft will be trying to go at different speeds at each end, at some point in it's rotation.

I suppose many people don't believe this (or get away with it for a while) but it's a mechanical fact.

If the angle is the same on both ends and the drive line is phased correctly you should be ok.

Otherwise consider a double cardan output like you would find in a Bronco.

Well I guess I will do some measuring this weekend and see what I can get away with, because I know one thing for sure, I don't want to have to change this after the fact. I'm just not sure if I can move the engine over the full 2" or not.

Still, if the trans output and rear diff input are offset, but still parallel, it should be fine?

 

[Gary Lewis]

If the U- joint angles aren't the same (complimentary) the drive shaft will be trying to go at different speeds at each end, at some point in it's rotation.

I suppose many people don't believe this (or get away with it for a while) but it's a mechanical fact.

If the angle is the same on both ends and the drive line is phased correctly you should be ok.

Otherwise consider a double cardan output like you would find in a Bronco.

Well I guess I will do some measuring this weekend and see what I can get away with, because I know one thing for sure, I don't want to have to change this after the fact. I'm just not sure if I can move the engine over the full 2" or not.

Still, if the trans output and rear diff input are offset, but still parallel, it should be fine?

I know you are asking Jim, but I concur. Up/sideways doesn't matter. You need the same angle at each end w/a single cardon joint. So if the tranny points straight back and the pinion shaft points straight forward you should be fine.

[Nothing Special]

.... Still, if the trans output and rear diff input are offset, but still parallel, it should be fine?

Yes. I suppose if the total effective offset is too much the angles could be too high which could lead to issues (probably more with binding or breaking than vibration). But as long as the trans output and diff input are parallel (or the diff pointing a bit down since it will tip up under power) you shouldn't have vibration problems.

(edit: Oops, cross-posted with Gary. At least we agreed!)

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

If the U- joint angles aren't the same (complimentary) the drive shaft will be trying to go at different speeds at each end, at some point in it's rotation.

I suppose many people don't believe this (or get away with it for a while) but it's a mechanical fact.

If the angle is the same on both ends and the drive line is phased correctly you should be ok.

Otherwise consider a double cardan output like you would find in a Bronco.

Well I guess I will do some measuring this weekend and see what I can get away with, because I know one thing for sure, I don't want to have to change this after the fact. I'm just not sure if I can move the engine over the full 2" or not.

Still, if the trans output and rear diff input are offset, but still parallel, it should be fine?

If the angles are the same at each end it is good.

You have problems when one end of the shaft is straight (or nearly so) and the other end is trying to force the universal at an angle.

I'm no drive line wizard, but I understand the problem.

Whoever makes up the shaft for you should be able to explain it better than I can.

[mat in tn]

If the angles are the same at each end it is good.

You have problems when one end of the shaft is straight (or nearly so) and the other end is trying to force the universal at an angle.

I'm no drive line wizard, but I understand the problem.

Whoever makes up the shaft for you should be able to explain it better than I can.

the last thing you need is a slip yoke reciprocating like a sawzall. another dynamic would be where the side to side angle is different than the up down angle. when the trans/ slip yoke is say at three degrees downward angle and the pinion is also. the relative angle to the shaft is important. under acceleration the pinion angle will rotate upwards and change the relative angle and do this under stress load. it is much more of a change at the rear than at the front. if heavy cargo is involved it "could' be more change at the front.

when setting this up, consider the expected cargo along with suspension type so that when under acceleration the pinion will rotate into position rather than through it or from it adding a sideways offset only compounds the issue.

long winded I know, but a 50 model was never expected to be refined as you are doing. and it maybe perfect at canceling eccentricities up to a given speed or it may make every mirror look fuzzy at 45.