FuzzFace2 Posted September 4, 2021 Share Posted September 4, 2021 Made some progress. Life happened and had to wait for parts. Masters back in. Rebuilt boosters. And a new stop light switch. Need to put the new rear wheel cylinders in yet so I can bleed the system. One interesting update. Per Gary’s schematic it appears someone or the dealer updated my brakes from Manual to power. My pedal is the one in the manual photo. I’m assuming that may be part of my problems. As well some previous owner lost part#2474 which appears to be a bushing that may take some slop out of the pedal. Thanks for the help and wish me luck in the wheel cylinders. Everything seems to be stubborn with rust. Mike. Just getting up to date on posts and seen this. The difference between manual & power peddles is where the pin for the master is located on the peddle arm. I dont remember what one is what with out measuring what is in my truck that is power. Guess I could pull the non-power one out of the parts bin to measure I also want to say the non-power master rod comes straight out so it would be the higher pin and the power the lower pin but again would need to measure to be sure. As for the bushing I would guess that would be the same for either system and you might be able to find one at the local hardware store that would work if cant find at junk yard. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StpaulF100 Posted September 5, 2021 Author Share Posted September 5, 2021 Brakes work! At least 70% of them. Brake lights are fixed. And now to figure out how far forward I need to go to get brake fluid to the rear!!! I’m assuming the rubber lines are bad. I hate just throwing parts at it, but I suppose its what you have to do some times. Thanks for all the help. So off to order some brake hoses and some nickel copper brake line. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 Brakes work! At least 70% of them. Brake lights are fixed. And now to figure out how far forward I need to go to get brake fluid to the rear!!! I’m assuming the rubber lines are bad. I hate just throwing parts at it, but I suppose its what you have to do some times. Thanks for all the help. So off to order some brake hoses and some nickel copper brake line. Mike Yes, some times you just have to bite the bullet and say "while I'm in there...". And to me the brake system is one of those. If one side is bad the other has been used the same number of times, so replace it as well. Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 Yes, some times you just have to bite the bullet and say "while I'm in there...". And to me the brake system is one of those. If one side is bad the other has been used the same number of times, so replace it as well. Good luck! Yep. Especially hydraulics. Fixing or replacing the failed component just means full pressure is going to be applied to the next weakest link in the chain. Glad you've spotted it early! Hopefully the brake fluid hasn't made a mess of everything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted September 5, 2021 Share Posted September 5, 2021 Yep. Especially hydraulics. Fixing or replacing the failed component just means full pressure is going to be applied to the next weakest link in the chain. Glad you've spotted it early! Hopefully the brake fluid hasn't made a mess of everything. One item I ran into on Darth, or it might have been another vehicle, the brake light switch was in two versions, manual brakes and power brakes. The difference was the strength of the return spring in the switch. The other item, a stiff return on the pedal from excessive friction at the pivot can make the brake lights stay on as the spring in the switch isn't strong enough to overcome it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted September 6, 2021 Share Posted September 6, 2021 Brakes work! At least 70% of them. Brake lights are fixed. And now to figure out how far forward I need to go to get brake fluid to the rear!!! I’m assuming the rubber lines are bad. I hate just throwing parts at it, but I suppose its what you have to do some times. Thanks for all the help. So off to order some brake hoses and some nickel copper brake line. Mike I measured the brake pivot to pin on my power brake system and got 4 inches. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StpaulF100 Posted September 23, 2021 Author Share Posted September 23, 2021 Brakes work! At least 70% of them. Brake lights are fixed. And now to figure out how far forward I need to go to get brake fluid to the rear!!! I’m assuming the rubber lines are bad. I hate just throwing parts at it, but I suppose its what you have to do some times. Thanks for all the help. So off to order some brake hoses and some nickel copper brake line. Mike Started with the front brake lines today. Drivers side will need surgery and a new line run from the proportioning valve. Passenger side went pretty well…. Until I went to bleed it. It leaks from the banjo bolt area on the caliper. I used the new copper washer the brake hose came with and it poured out. I cleaned everything very good before install. Tried tightening and that just deformed the washers. Reused the old ones which are much thicker and the leak turned to a drip. I’m going to assume I need thicker washers that havnt been crushed for 41 years and the leak will be cured. Unless there is a problem with the mating surface. Just thinking out loud. Thanks for all the ideas and help. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 Started with the front brake lines today. Drivers side will need surgery and a new line run from the proportioning valve. Passenger side went pretty well…. Until I went to bleed it. It leaks from the banjo bolt area on the caliper. I used the new copper washer the brake hose came with and it poured out. I cleaned everything very good before install. Tried tightening and that just deformed the washers. Reused the old ones which are much thicker and the leak turned to a drip. I’m going to assume I need thicker washers that havnt been crushed for 41 years and the leak will be cured. Unless there is a problem with the mating surface. Just thinking out loud. Thanks for all the ideas and help. Mike Are the new washers the right OD and ID? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StpaulF100 Posted September 23, 2021 Author Share Posted September 23, 2021 Are the new washers the right OD and ID? Hmmmm…??? They came with the brake lines butt, however, things can be messy sometimes. I will have to look up part numbers and dimensions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted September 23, 2021 Share Posted September 23, 2021 Hmmmm…??? They came with the brake lines butt, however, things can be messy sometimes. I will have to look up part numbers and dimensions. Have you considered simply annealing the washers you have? Copper is the opposite of steel in that it *needs* to be quenched in order to come out soft. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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