Preventing parts from getting stuck

[tanman]

I had a short thread about my aftermarket distributor being a very tight fit on my 86 4.9L

I was able to coat the housing with motor oil and it wiggled into place but it was a very very snug fit.

I'm concerned about 10 years down the road if I need to swap the distributor again, what could I put on that sleeve to prevent it from simply sticking permanently?

For things like bolts that attach alternators, fans, and anything else under the hood, is there a product that protects from corrosion and allows the next person to remove the component with ease?

I am really enjoying my adventure learning to work on my own truck. How can I make life easier for myself or the next person when swapping things in the future?

Do we have an area on the site such as "Lessons Learned"? A place for general mechanic advice or knowledge?

For example, in yesterday's thread about my distributor the oil pump drive shaft came out with the old distributor. I had no idea that it needed to go back in attached to the new distributor. Thankfully someone pointed that out to me. I could have ruined my motor.

That would be a great "Lesson Learned" filed under Ignition System --> Distributor Removal / Replace

[kramttocs]

We have a Resources section

For bolts, anti-seize is commonly used. I use it on some things but I use blue loctite more often than not. I also like the ARP fastener lubricant.

I've only ever put some oil on the distributor o-ring and surrounding area but I don't see why one couldn't put the aluminum anti-seize on the housing. Never done it so will rely on others to chime in.

[ArdWrknTrk]

We have a Resources section

For bolts, anti-seize is commonly used. I use it on some things but I use blue loctite more often than not. I also like the ARP fastener lubricant.

I've only ever put some oil on the distributor o-ring and surrounding area but I don't see why one couldn't put the aluminum anti-seize on the housing. Never done it so will rely on others to chime in.

We also have a tips & techniques sticky in the garage and shop section.

I originally asked Gary for that so we would have a place for the technical discussions that were derailing good threads.

But the impetus for all that is no longer with us, and I don't have a workstation anymore to sit down and sort it out.

[kramttocs]

We also have a tips & techniques sticky in the garage and shop section.

I originally asked Gary for that so we would have a place for the technical discussions that were derailing good threads.

But the impetus for all that is no longer with us, and I don't have a workstation anymore to sit down and sort it out.

Good point Jim - the Tips and Techniques is a better place for this. Forgot they were under there

[ArdWrknTrk]

Good point Jim - the Tips and Techniques is a better place for this. Forgot they were under there

It definitely doesn't see a lot of traffic, being a sub-heading under another sub-heading....

I tried for a while to encourage people to share their knowledge and experience there.

I think the concept is good but my execution is lacking.

[FuzzFace2]

We have a Resources section

For bolts, anti-seize is commonly used. I use it on some things but I use blue loctite more often than not. I also like the ARP fastener lubricant.

I've only ever put some oil on the distributor o-ring and surrounding area but I don't see why one couldn't put the aluminum anti-seize on the housing. Never done it so will rely on others to chime in.

ALUM. anti-seize is what I use on a lot of things like the suspension bolts where they go through a metal sleeve and always get rusted in place.

All the studs & nuts that hold the intake & EFI exh. manifolds to the head on my 300 six motor.

Drum brake adjusters and where the shoes touch the backing plate, it dose not dry out and get hard like white grease dose.

I would use it on the dist. so it will not stick to the block or on a v8 the intake.

Dave ----