nic55kel Posted June 6, 2021 Author Share Posted June 6, 2021 Ah that make sense Jim. Luckily I have two good reference holes on each side and on the passenger side it is just a matter of drilling a couple of holes. I think I will have to do a bit of fabrication on the drivers side but not a lot. We only have about 4 phrases to describe the weather here: "I will be happy when it is warmer". "I will be happy when it is cooler". "I will be happy when it dries up". "I will be happy when the snow has gone". We are currently on the second phrase. We are generally optimistic always looking to the future. Well I have completed the perch mods. Nothing very pretty but no concerns regarding their strength. The drill turnings look more like powder in the picture. Just need to clean up and do any painting, etc. Getting close to be starting to put the truck back together.I just have to pull the pedal assembly and column on the donee. On the clutch linkage - wondering if anyone has switched the nylon bushings to heim joints on the long rod that transmits from the pedal arm to the z-bar arm? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 Well I have completed the perch mods. Nothing very pretty but no concerns regarding their strength. The drill turnings look more like powder in the picture. Just need to clean up and do any painting, etc. Getting close to be starting to put the truck back together.I just have to pull the pedal assembly and column on the donee. On the clutch linkage - wondering if anyone has switched the nylon bushings to heim joints on the long rod that transmits from the pedal arm to the z-bar arm? Nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 6, 2021 Share Posted June 6, 2021 Well I have completed the perch mods. Nothing very pretty but no concerns regarding their strength. The drill turnings look more like powder in the picture. Just need to clean up and do any painting, etc. Getting close to be starting to put the truck back together.I just have to pull the pedal assembly and column on the donee. On the clutch linkage - wondering if anyone has switched the nylon bushings to heim joints on the long rod that transmits from the pedal arm to the z-bar arm? Those look great! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted June 7, 2021 Author Share Posted June 7, 2021 Nice! Thanks Dane and Gary, I am starting to think it will all work out fine. Gary you are absolutely right about the benefits of documenting progress on the project. Any time I think this is taking forever I just look over what has been done and it gets me excited about the project again. I painted and bolted down the engine perches and now I am getting started on the interior work. I am really happy with the condition of the floor under the carpet. The tunnel cover from the 4 speed truck nests perfectly with the original cover and so the carpet should lay down like factory . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 8, 2021 Share Posted June 8, 2021 Thanks Dane and Gary, I am starting to think it will all work out fine. Gary you are absolutely right about the benefits of documenting progress on the project. Any time I think this is taking forever I just look over what has been done and it gets me excited about the project again. I painted and bolted down the engine perches and now I am getting started on the interior work. I am really happy with the condition of the floor under the carpet. The tunnel cover from the 4 speed truck nests perfectly with the original cover and so the carpet should lay down like factory . Yep. And one of these days you'll be working out the little teething problems. Things will be going so well you'll have to review the documentation to realize what a huge effort it was. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted June 8, 2021 Author Share Posted June 8, 2021 Yep. And one of these days you'll be working out the little teething problems. Things will be going so well you'll have to review the documentation to realize what a huge effort it was. Gary I am sure that you are right about all the teething problems. There is a lot of diesel electrical to delete and then the fuel system to sort out. Anyway had a good day today. Pulled the pedal assembly on the diesel and compared them. The cruise vacuum switch brake pedal presser block does not align and I had to move it. The hose clamp holds it really well so may just leave it like that. I had to drill out the holes for the vacuum switch mount, holes were there but too small. A few points for anyone who may be doing something similar. I tied the brake booster in position when I removed the pedal bracket nuts. They are shouldered nuts and will push the booster out of the firewall when you remove the last nut - there is a plastic collar on the booster and it breaks easily on the firewall edge if one is not careful. Before I disconnected the steering wheel shaft collar I locked the steering wheel so that there is no chance of it getting rotated out of position. If the steering column is for an automatic transmission don't forget to disconnect the transmission range indicator cable. I made the cut-out for the clutch rod bellows. Nice fit for the bellows and the location seems right. I will find out soon when I start putting it all together. Â Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted June 12, 2021 Author Share Posted June 12, 2021 Gary I am sure that you are right about all the teething problems. There is a lot of diesel electrical to delete and then the fuel system to sort out. Anyway had a good day today. Pulled the pedal assembly on the diesel and compared them. The cruise vacuum switch brake pedal presser block does not align and I had to move it. The hose clamp holds it really well so may just leave it like that. I had to drill out the holes for the vacuum switch mount, holes were there but too small. A few points for anyone who may be doing something similar. I tied the brake booster in position when I removed the pedal bracket nuts. They are shouldered nuts and will push the booster out of the firewall when you remove the last nut - there is a plastic collar on the booster and it breaks easily on the firewall edge if one is not careful. Before I disconnected the steering wheel shaft collar I locked the steering wheel so that there is no chance of it getting rotated out of position. If the steering column is for an automatic transmission don't forget to disconnect the transmission range indicator cable. I made the cut-out for the clutch rod bellows. Nice fit for the bellows and the location seems right. I will find out soon when I start putting it all together. Well made a little more progress. The weather has been a little uncooperative with a few rainy days. The only bad bushing on the clutch linkage is at the down rod to the z-bar pivot. The pin is okay but the hole on the rod is elongated. I pressed in a piece of brass pipe and then drilled it to size. Not sure if it will last but I can remove the rod without too much trouble if I have to rework it. I drilled out the holes on the exhaust manifold for the choke heater tubing - the originals were all rusted off. I then made up 1/4" copper tubes to replace the original steel. I was able to fit them so they will stay in place so hopefully that will make the choke fully release. I installed the pedal bracket and it looks like the clutch linkage will be just fine. I had thought about setting the engine on the perches today but the wind was really blowing too much for me to feel comfortable removing the hood. Tomorrow is another day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 12, 2021 Share Posted June 12, 2021 Well made a little more progress. The weather has been a little uncooperative with a few rainy days. The only bad bushing on the clutch linkage is at the down rod to the z-bar pivot. The pin is okay but the hole on the rod is elongated. I pressed in a piece of brass pipe and then drilled it to size. Not sure if it will last but I can remove the rod without too much trouble if I have to rework it. I drilled out the holes on the exhaust manifold for the choke heater tubing - the originals were all rusted off. I then made up 1/4" copper tubes to replace the original steel. I was able to fit them so they will stay in place so hopefully that will make the choke fully release. I installed the pedal bracket and it looks like the clutch linkage will be just fine. I had thought about setting the engine on the perches today but the wind was really blowing too much for me to feel comfortable removing the hood. Tomorrow is another day. Bob - You are making great progress. That brass bushing should work fine for quite a while. But when you need to replace it you might want to get some Oilite bushings. The sintered bronze holds lubricant in the pores so lasts longer than brass itself. As for the choke, your copper tubing should last a long time and make a huge difference on the chole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 Bob - You are making great progress. That brass bushing should work fine for quite a while. But when you need to replace it you might want to get some Oilite bushings. The sintered bronze holds lubricant in the pores so lasts longer than brass itself. As for the choke, your copper tubing should last a long time and make a huge difference on the chole. Thanks Gary, Yes I will see how long the brass lasts. I think when it wears out I will see about adapting a heim joint. Well I got the engine sitting on its perches. It was a tight fit but by removing the weather strip at the firewall I was able to get enough clearance to drop it in without having to loosen the rad support. Something about seeing the engine in place makes me more excited about this project. I checked the fit of the z-bar and clutch linkage and it all lined up like factory so very happy about that. Must be sure to remember the spacer plate before I put the flywheel on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 14, 2021 Share Posted June 14, 2021 Thanks Gary, Yes I will see how long the brass lasts. I think when it wears out I will see about adapting a heim joint. Well I got the engine sitting on its perches. It was a tight fit but by removing the weather strip at the firewall I was able to get enough clearance to drop it in without having to loosen the rad support. Something about seeing the engine in place makes me more excited about this project. I checked the fit of the z-bar and clutch linkage and it all lined up like factory so very happy about that. Must be sure to remember the spacer plate before I put the flywheel on. That's great, Bob! Sure is a lot more room in there now. Happy for the progress. Hope the weather helps you along. I don't know about the mechanical clutches, but I had a shell casing on my clutch linkage with a C-clip in the extractor groove for years. When it failed I replaced it with a flanged sintered bronze bushing like Gary suggested. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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