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1986 F-250 XLT 6.9 idi C6 switch to 300 4 speed


nic55kel

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Splitting it is not a bad idea.

You're right, the drum needs replacing anyhow.

At least the truck would roll.

Congrat's! Glad you got it home.

That "L" bit probably would have escaped my attention as well. My Super Bee has left-hand threads on the left side, but I frequently forget. May change them out to right-hand when I rebuild it. Started to suggest you do the same, but you aren't going to use the axle, right?

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Congrat's! Glad you got it home.

That "L" bit probably would have escaped my attention as well. My Super Bee has left-hand threads on the left side, but I frequently forget. May change them out to right-hand when I rebuild it. Started to suggest you do the same, but you aren't going to use the axle, right?

Thanks Gary,

There is no L on these studs they have a dot. Oddly they come off easily when turned right :nabble_anim_crazy:.

Yes I will be using the drive train up to but not including the rear axle.

I think the sterling is a better unit other than the pinion nut loosening and I see no sign of that on the unit I have - besides its already in place and it is a 3.55 - I really don't want a 4.10.

I am hoping I can piece together a drive shaft using the front section from the donor and the rear that is already in place. That is the only unknown in terms of how it will go together. I am hoping to keep the slip joint pair together and just change from the u joint back.

Bob

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Thanks Gary,

There is no L on these studs they have a dot. Oddly they come off easily when turned right :nabble_anim_crazy:.

Yes I will be using the drive train up to but not including the rear axle.

I think the sterling is a better unit other than the pinion nut loosening and I see no sign of that on the unit I have - besides its already in place and it is a 3.55 - I really don't want a 4.10.

I am hoping I can piece together a drive shaft using the front section from the donor and the rear that is already in place. That is the only unknown in terms of how it will go together. I am hoping to keep the slip joint pair together and just change from the u joint back.

Bob

Why not the whole driveshaft?

There are dozens of combination U-joints.

Ford was very fond of them (as I found to my dismay last summer)

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Why not the whole driveshaft?

There are dozens of combination U-joints.

Ford was very fond of them (as I found to my dismay last summer)

I think the Sterling is the better of the two, but up front is a good place for a Dana 60. :nabble_smiley_wink:

As for the driveshaft, is this the truck that gets the GVOD?

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Why not the whole driveshaft?

There are dozens of combination U-joints.

Ford was very fond of them (as I found to my dismay last summer)

Jim, If the whole driveshaft will fit that would be great but I am thinking that the yoke and the yoke to axle centreline distance will be different on the sterling? Or, in other words, that the rear half of the d/s will be different for the different rear axles.

Gary, I will remove the GVOD along with the C6 and so the front half of the driveshaft will move over along with the T18, it is the part behind the slipjoint I am not sure about. If I have to get it modified by a machine shop that will be no biggy, just trying to anticipate problems to reduce nasty surprises.

Yes I like the D60 in the front of my 2007 F250, but it is time to service the front hubs and grease those needle bearings.

I am hoping that the 300 in 1982 had a cast iron cam gear, if not I will change it out when I reseal the motor.

Thanks guys for being so helpful.

Bob

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Jim, If the whole driveshaft will fit that would be great but I am thinking that the yoke and the yoke to axle centreline distance will be different on the sterling? Or, in other words, that the rear half of the d/s will be different for the different rear axles.

Gary, I will remove the GVOD along with the C6 and so the front half of the driveshaft will move over along with the T18, it is the part behind the slipjoint I am not sure about. If I have to get it modified by a machine shop that will be no biggy, just trying to anticipate problems to reduce nasty surprises.

Yes I like the D60 in the front of my 2007 F250, but it is time to service the front hubs and grease those needle bearings.

I am hoping that the 300 in 1982 had a cast iron cam gear, if not I will change it out when I reseal the motor.

Thanks guys for being so helpful.

Bob

I'm saying the overall length to the centerline of the rear U-joint shouldn't be much different D-60 ---> Sterling.

If the pinion yoke takes a different series universal you can use a combination (bastard) universal.

I definitely wouldn't take the yoke off the Sterling if it hasn't loosened up on its own.

I remember what a problem it was getting that thing tight again when mine did.

 

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I'm saying the overall length to the centerline of the rear U-joint shouldn't be much different D-60 ---> Sterling.

If the pinion yoke takes a different series universal you can use a combination (bastard) universal.

I definitely wouldn't take the yoke off the Sterling if it hasn't loosened up on its own.

I remember what a problem it was getting that thing tight again when mine did.

I agree. I think you'll find the difference between the Sterling and the Dana are small enough you can use the same shaft.

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I agree. I think you'll find the difference between the Sterling and the Dana are small enough you can use the same shaft.

Well I hope you are both right about the driveshaft being close enough. That would be sweet.

I Will keep you posted as this progresses.

Bob

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Well I hope you are both right about the driveshaft being close enough. That would be sweet.

I Will keep you posted as this progresses.

Bob

Well I got the donor truck rolling.

Decided to just bite the bullet and cut the drum up.

IMG_1199.jpg.c96db024d68ea84cb646e3247233b35f.jpg

It moves but there is a very noticeable amount of brake drag. Don't have to worry about it rolling away.

I drove it up to the recipient truck and I really hope they play nice together.

IMG_1201.jpg.5473d80b8b085dd5f91dfc55b295fa49.jpg

Tomorrow, other commitments permitting, I hope to assess the condition of the engine. I will measure the oil pressure and do a compression test and decide if I want to do anything other than a good clean, paint and reseal.

From the way it runs and visual inspection it may be best to leave it alone. I am increasingly confident that this engine only has low hours on it.

Bob

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Well I got the donor truck rolling.

Decided to just bite the bullet and cut the drum up.

It moves but there is a very noticeable amount of brake drag. Don't have to worry about it rolling away.

I drove it up to the recipient truck and I really hope they play nice together.

Tomorrow, other commitments permitting, I hope to assess the condition of the engine. I will measure the oil pressure and do a compression test and decide if I want to do anything other than a good clean, paint and reseal.

From the way it runs and visual inspection it may be best to leave it alone. I am increasingly confident that this engine only has low hours on it.

Bob

I've never seen that done, but it makes sense. Well done!

Good luck on the engine.

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