grumpin Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 Well the driveshaft fits and still has plenty of travel on the slip joint. The exhausts melded nicely, not sure how it will sound with the 2" pipe feeding into a 3" aft section. I had been trying to figure how to fit the gear shift boot and carpet. Decided on fastening the boot directly to the tunnel cover and just cutting the carpet to fit around the boot. Very happy with how it turned out, carpet fits perfectly and almost looks factory. Slowly sorting out the engine compartment. I am going to stick with the diesel rad as it is almost new and also the rad support is in much better condition than the donor. The rad hoses are matching together fairly well using exhaust adapters to match the different sizes. I managed to put some small ridges on the adapters and I don't think there is any danger of them coming apart. Won't be long before I can fire the old truck up and have it move under its own power. This crazy hot weather is limiting how much I work on it each day. I am much more patient than I used to be. Nice! That shift boot turned out great! Good thinking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 Nice! That shift boot turned out great! Good thinking! Yes, the shift boot/carpet combo looks great. Well done! Can't wait for you to get it fired up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 30, 2021 Share Posted June 30, 2021 Yes, the shift boot/carpet combo looks great. Well done! Can't wait for you to get it fired up. The boot does look good I did the same thing as you and screwed the boot to the pan and fit the carpet into the bottom fold. It hides the edges of the carpet and you dont risk a screw pulling the carpet apart if you screw down through the carpet. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted July 8, 2021 Author Share Posted July 8, 2021 The boot does look good I did the same thing as you and screwed the boot to the pan and fit the carpet into the bottom fold. It hides the edges of the carpet and you dont risk a screw pulling the carpet apart if you screw down through the carpet. Dave ---- Dave, Gary and Dane, Thanks so much for the positive feedback on the shifter boot/carpet. I am very happy with how that looks. I took a bit of a break because we had some extreme hot weather and then I had a bit of a reaction to my second covid shot but back to the project again. I have got the steering wheel and seat back in and finishing up on all the little odds and ends. The speedometer cable is in along with the cruise signal generator, the wiring for the back up lights is done. All the mechanical stuff is done on the engine, alternator and PS are back on and connected. I had to come up with a mount for the DS2 module which is done. Just a little more wiring for the ignition, I have to come up with a resistor for the coil +ve but with any luck I should hear it run tomorrow. I will get to the A/C and cruise down the road a bit as I have other projects that I have put off for too long, or so I am told. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 8, 2021 Share Posted July 8, 2021 Dave, Gary and Dane, Thanks so much for the positive feedback on the shifter boot/carpet. I am very happy with how that looks. I took a bit of a break because we had some extreme hot weather and then I had a bit of a reaction to my second covid shot but back to the project again. I have got the steering wheel and seat back in and finishing up on all the little odds and ends. The speedometer cable is in along with the cruise signal generator, the wiring for the back up lights is done. All the mechanical stuff is done on the engine, alternator and PS are back on and connected. I had to come up with a mount for the DS2 module which is done. Just a little more wiring for the ignition, I have to come up with a resistor for the coil +ve but with any luck I should hear it run tomorrow. I will get to the A/C and cruise down the road a bit as I have other projects that I have put off for too long, or so I am told. I'll bet you can't WAIT to fire it up! Good luck! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 9, 2021 Share Posted July 9, 2021 I'll bet you can't WAIT to fire it up! Good luck! That second shot put the wife & I under the weather for a few hours but nothing like I hear some have had. I dont think I have seen a horn mounted where yours is, do you have another mounted somewhere else? Little by little and before you know it you will be driving it. Keep up the good work ...... after the other put off projects LOL Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted July 10, 2021 Author Share Posted July 10, 2021 That second shot put the wife & I under the weather for a few hours but nothing like I hear some have had. I dont think I have seen a horn mounted where yours is, do you have another mounted somewhere else? Little by little and before you know it you will be driving it. Keep up the good work ...... after the other put off projects LOL Dave ---- It's Alive Hi Dave, the reaction wasn't too bad just enough that I didn't feel like going out and crawling under the truck etc. although my arm was pretty sore for a couple of days. The horn being where it is must be a diesel thing as that is where the wiring puts it and there is a second horn on the drivers side behind the rad support. Well it runs nicely, quite a bit of lifter rattle for the first 10 minutes or so but quietened right down once it warmed up. I have got the gauges working and just have to finish up the ignition power connection. Had to come up with a solution to bypass the resistor when cranking and for the retard signal. Problem was there did not seem to be a dedicated start circuit for that purpose on the diesel. So I decided to connect to the starter side of the starter relay via isolation diodes and that seems to be working really well. I had a large power resistor array board in one of my scrap piles and cut it down to give me the correct value and made up a mount for it. The stud rectifier at the front of the board is connected through a fuse to the starter relay and bypasses the resistor when the starter is cranking. What you don't see clearly is that there is a second smaller rectifier there that sends the retard signal to the ignition module when cranking. The resistors get quite hot when the engine is running and I measured a 3.6 volt drop across them. I squared R gives about 15 watts of dissipation, they are 10 watt power resistors so well within their 40 watt combined rating. Another problem was that on the diesel all the engine wiring is on the passenger side fender and on the 300 it is all on the drivers side. I had some good quality 5 conductor 20 awg cable in my scrap pile so I took a length of that and ran it across the cowl and it was luckily just the correct number of conductors. The white jumper was just for testing so I could quickly disconnect the power should there be an issue but happily all checks out good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 10, 2021 Share Posted July 10, 2021 It's Alive Hi Dave, the reaction wasn't too bad just enough that I didn't feel like going out and crawling under the truck etc. although my arm was pretty sore for a couple of days. The horn being where it is must be a diesel thing as that is where the wiring puts it and there is a second horn on the drivers side behind the rad support. Well it runs nicely, quite a bit of lifter rattle for the first 10 minutes or so but quietened right down once it warmed up. I have got the gauges working and just have to finish up the ignition power connection. Had to come up with a solution to bypass the resistor when cranking and for the retard signal. Problem was there did not seem to be a dedicated start circuit for that purpose on the diesel. So I decided to connect to the starter side of the starter relay via isolation diodes and that seems to be working really well. I had a large power resistor array board in one of my scrap piles and cut it down to give me the correct value and made up a mount for it. The stud rectifier at the front of the board is connected through a fuse to the starter relay and bypasses the resistor when the starter is cranking. What you don't see clearly is that there is a second smaller rectifier there that sends the retard signal to the ignition module when cranking. The resistors get quite hot when the engine is running and I measured a 3.6 volt drop across them. I squared R gives about 15 watts of dissipation, they are 10 watt power resistors so well within their 40 watt combined rating. Another problem was that on the diesel all the engine wiring is on the passenger side fender and on the 300 it is all on the drivers side. I had some good quality 5 conductor 20 awg cable in my scrap pile so I took a length of that and ran it across the cowl and it was luckily just the correct number of conductors. The white jumper was just for testing so I could quickly disconnect the power should there be an issue but happily all checks out good. That's great, Bob! Glad you've got it running. Indeed, the diesel harness is quite different. I had no idea there would be a horn behind the battery. I think I've been roped in to some 6.9 work. I'll certainly be taking notes as it comes apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 11, 2021 Share Posted July 11, 2021 It's Alive Hi Dave, the reaction wasn't too bad just enough that I didn't feel like going out and crawling under the truck etc. although my arm was pretty sore for a couple of days. The horn being where it is must be a diesel thing as that is where the wiring puts it and there is a second horn on the drivers side behind the rad support. Well it runs nicely, quite a bit of lifter rattle for the first 10 minutes or so but quietened right down once it warmed up. I have got the gauges working and just have to finish up the ignition power connection. Had to come up with a solution to bypass the resistor when cranking and for the retard signal. Problem was there did not seem to be a dedicated start circuit for that purpose on the diesel. So I decided to connect to the starter side of the starter relay via isolation diodes and that seems to be working really well. I had a large power resistor array board in one of my scrap piles and cut it down to give me the correct value and made up a mount for it. The stud rectifier at the front of the board is connected through a fuse to the starter relay and bypasses the resistor when the starter is cranking. What you don't see clearly is that there is a second smaller rectifier there that sends the retard signal to the ignition module when cranking. The resistors get quite hot when the engine is running and I measured a 3.6 volt drop across them. I squared R gives about 15 watts of dissipation, they are 10 watt power resistors so well within their 40 watt combined rating. Another problem was that on the diesel all the engine wiring is on the passenger side fender and on the 300 it is all on the drivers side. I had some good quality 5 conductor 20 awg cable in my scrap pile so I took a length of that and ran it across the cowl and it was luckily just the correct number of conductors. The white jumper was just for testing so I could quickly disconnect the power should there be an issue but happily all checks out good. Congrat's! That is SUCH a good feeling when it runs. And well done on the voltage drop for the ignition. However, they make ignition ballast resistors, so if those give you a problem... Well done also on the retard signal. But do you know that your module acts on it? Not all do. You might want to test it, and you'll know if it does as the idle speed will drop noticeably. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nic55kel Posted July 20, 2021 Author Share Posted July 20, 2021 That's great, Bob! Glad you've got it running. Indeed, the diesel harness is quite different. I had no idea there would be a horn behind the battery. I think I've been roped in to some 6.9 work. I'll certainly be taking notes as it comes apart. Hi Jim, I imagine you are into the 6.9 work by now. The big rats nest is of course all the preheat wiring other than that it is pretty similar, anyway good luck with it. Thanks Gary for the site and all the positive feedback, it has been very helpful. The truck runs very nicely and is operating on the fuel tank. A little bit smokey until I was able to fill up with premium but smooth after that. The transmission shifts smoothly and is much more fun to drive than the C6. The truck is definitely underpowered by today's standards but absolutely fine for my needs. I will probably start another thread on making the tachometer work with the gas engine. The front suspension rides a little high but I will see how bad the tire wear is before I give that any further thought as it drives nicely at highway speed. It doesn't look bad and I haven't measured it but there is a slight amount of positive camber. Thanks to all and unless something swap over related occurs I think I will call this done. Still lots to do on the truck and I will start a new thread on anything I think worthwhile. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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