IDIBronco Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 It is a bummer when plans fall through like that. But at least it is a fairly simple fix - assuming your homemade flaring tool works like it should. I don't know of a source of the fins, but I think you are right that baseboard heaters have them. Or maybe your other compressor does? Good luck! I did work quite a bit on the log splitter today. I first set about to fix the compressor broken line. I went to the shop and started digging through my pieces of drops for something suitable to make a "flaring tool". I found what I thought was a piece that would work and headed over to the toolbox to get a caliper and start figuring out how I wanted to lay out what I needed to do. While going to find the calipers I saw a 3/8 inch socket in half inch drive. I thought that it sure looked like it might just fit in the copper tube on the necked down portion. I took it out to the copper tube and sure enough it fit right in. I quickly trimmed the copper tube shorter, filed the edges to prep for the flare and slid the flare nut on. Took the trusty socket and a hammer and tapped the socket in until the area that was larger started to flare the copper out. It only took a few dozen light taps to make a good flare start. I slid the flare nut up to the end a few times to ensure I didn't get the shoulder of the tube too large. Once I was satisfied with the diameter I went ahead and screwed the flare nut down tight on the flare fitting to set the angle properly on the flare I just made. I took it all apart and compared it to the original flare and was pretty happy with the results. I went ahead and reassembled the compressor (belts and interstage tube) and fired up the compressor and welder and tested the fix out. Didn't have any noticable issues with the repair. I wish I had dug through the toolbox yesterday, but I am sure I wouldn't have thought to try this then. I got the top plate completely removed. Gouged bevels into the 2 ends and then dressed all the cuts with the grinder. By the end of the day I had everything about ready to start reassembling and rewelding. I decided I had done enough hunched over work today that I thought I had better wait until tomorrow to start welding the top plate back in. A few pictures from today. I figured out pretty quickly the arc gouging if you take your time and use smooth movement you need very little grinding to get it ready to weld. The bevels only needed about 5 minutes of cleaning up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 It does suck about that flare Base board fin dose make a good compressed air cooler http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n95303/Air%2520Drier%2520003.jpg Yes mine is after the tank but some put it between compressor and tank. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n95303/Compressor%2520Dryer%2520002.jpg Dave ---- I really appreciate this post. I will have to try and find some to try and make a new cooler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 I did work quite a bit on the log splitter today. I first set about to fix the compressor broken line. I went to the shop and started digging through my pieces of drops for something suitable to make a "flaring tool". I found what I thought was a piece that would work and headed over to the toolbox to get a caliper and start figuring out how I wanted to lay out what I needed to do. While going to find the calipers I saw a 3/8 inch socket in half inch drive. I thought that it sure looked like it might just fit in the copper tube on the necked down portion. I took it out to the copper tube and sure enough it fit right in. I quickly trimmed the copper tube shorter, filed the edges to prep for the flare and slid the flare nut on. Took the trusty socket and a hammer and tapped the socket in until the area that was larger started to flare the copper out. It only took a few dozen light taps to make a good flare start. I slid the flare nut up to the end a few times to ensure I didn't get the shoulder of the tube too large. Once I was satisfied with the diameter I went ahead and screwed the flare nut down tight on the flare fitting to set the angle properly on the flare I just made. I took it all apart and compared it to the original flare and was pretty happy with the results. I went ahead and reassembled the compressor (belts and interstage tube) and fired up the compressor and welder and tested the fix out. Didn't have any noticable issues with the repair. I wish I had dug through the toolbox yesterday, but I am sure I wouldn't have thought to try this then. I got the top plate completely removed. Gouged bevels into the 2 ends and then dressed all the cuts with the grinder. By the end of the day I had everything about ready to start reassembling and rewelding. I decided I had done enough hunched over work today that I thought I had better wait until tomorrow to start welding the top plate back in. A few pictures from today. I figured out pretty quickly the arc gouging if you take your time and use smooth movement you need very little grinding to get it ready to weld. The bevels only needed about 5 minutes of cleaning up. Well done! You sure are getting quite a bit accomplished. And I don't think I'd have thought of using a socket to flare the tube. Ingenious! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 I don't think I'd have thought of using a socket to flare the tube. To be completely honest I didn't think it would work. I already had decided I would have to substantially shorten the cooling loop to remove 1 loop around the flywheel to be able to reach the fitting again. So I just left the tube extra long so I could cut it off again when the socket damaged the end. Surprisingly it worked really well. Another "outside the box" thing to try to remember to make due with on hand tools. I like solutions like this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 It does suck about that flare Base board fin dose make a good compressed air cooler http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n95303/Air%2520Drier%2520003.jpg Yes mine is after the tank but some put it between compressor and tank. http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n95303/Compressor%2520Dryer%2520002.jpg Dave ---- I really appreciate this post. I will have to try and find some to try and make a new cooler. Be mindful that Slant fin is very thin tubing. It is never run at the sort of pressures (200) your compressor develops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 Be mindful that Slant fin is very thin tubing. It is never run at the sort of pressures (200) your compressor develops. Mine has been ok at 175+ psi It is at the other end of the shop so if it splits its only air. I had 1 of my loop line fittings , compression type, come apart just made a he'll of a noise from the air rushing out. Dave. ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 26, 2021 Share Posted April 26, 2021 Be mindful that Slant fin is very thin tubing. It is never run at the sort of pressures (200) your compressor develops. Mine has been ok at 175+ psi It is at the other end of the shop so if it splits its only air. I had 1 of my loop line fittings , compression type, come apart just made a he'll of a noise from the air rushing out. Dave. ---- I'm not saying that the element is going to be dangerous, just that it isn't rated for anything close to that kind of pressure. Typical hot water boilers aren't going to have more than 30psi even in a five storey building. (This will change somewhat depending on water temperature and fill pressure of the expansion tank) Also the thin tubing is not subject to the vibration seen by an engine driven, trailer mounted, compressor head. E75 hydronic elements have 55 aluminum fins per foot, a bit over 2" square. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted April 26, 2021 Author Share Posted April 26, 2021 I'm not saying that the element is going to be dangerous, just that it isn't rated for anything close to that kind of pressure. Typical hot water boilers aren't going to have more than 30psi even in a five storey building. (This will change somewhat depending on water temperature and fill pressure of the expansion tank) Also the thin tubing is not subject to the vibration seen by an engine driven, trailer mounted, compressor head. E75 hydronic elements have 55 aluminum fins per foot, a bit over 2" square. I suspect the interstage pressure wouldn't be all that high. Well within the spec range of the factor of safety designed into the copper tube, but I will do more research. I may make my own cooler. I have a few ideas floating around. Hopefully today will get the top plate welded back on. I took a few minutes this morning before getting on to normal jobs to work on the bend in the top plate with the hydraulic press. I was able to take enough bend out to feel comfortable using the plate again. I hopefully will have some pictures again late this afternoon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDIBronco Posted April 27, 2021 Author Share Posted April 27, 2021 I suspect the interstage pressure wouldn't be all that high. Well within the spec range of the factor of safety designed into the copper tube, but I will do more research. I may make my own cooler. I have a few ideas floating around. Hopefully today will get the top plate welded back on. I took a few minutes this morning before getting on to normal jobs to work on the bend in the top plate with the hydraulic press. I was able to take enough bend out to feel comfortable using the plate again. I hopefully will have some pictures again late this afternoon. It took a substantial amount of welding to fill and have structurally sound welds around the uprights, but I have it mostly back together. I have a little more to do maybe tomorrow afternoon but it will be moved off the to do list shortly. Been waiting to do this fix for a few months already. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 27, 2021 Share Posted April 27, 2021 It took a substantial amount of welding to fill and have structurally sound welds around the uprights, but I have it mostly back together. I have a little more to do maybe tomorrow afternoon but it will be moved off the to do list shortly. Been waiting to do this fix for a few months already. That looks ..... scary! Like it would cut through anything. Wow! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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