Slow and gentle sludge removal in engine

[delco1946]

Didn't see a topic on this so here we go. My truck (351m) had a bunch of sludge I paid to have scrapped out of the valley pan last year. I'm assuming there is likely sludge elsewhere since it was last rebuilt in the 90s.

I also have a 1955 ford with a y-block 292. Not the original engine, and I can only guess that it likely died of oiling problems which the y-blocks are well known for. I'm like to prevent a similar fate for the current engine.

After talking to my mechanic and watching lots of YouTube vids on seafoam, mystery oil etc, i've been getting very curious about slowly breaking up the sludge that may exist in an engine. Seems like the general process is more frequent oil changes, long trips to really warm on the engine, and slowly introduce a super slippery additive, in increasing quantities between oil changes. The big key is going slowly here or otherwise a whole chunk of sludge can break off and clog something causing serious problems.

My mechanic mentioned an example if your oil doesn't look like black sludge already: drive around for a long trip so everything is nice and warm, and maybe add an ounce or two of ATF, drive a bit more and then drain SOON (within a week?). Refill with oil, and maybe an ounce or two of ATF, and drive a couple hundred miles, drain, repeat. And so on, slowly increasing the ATF to say a quart.

Anyone tried this or have other suggestions?

[1986F150Six]

I suggest using a good quality Diesel rated oil of the correct weight [10W30] such as Rotella. I have had success with the T5, which is a synthetic blend. T6 is fully synthetic.

Oils manufactured for Diesel have a good detergent package and are formulated to keep Diesel engines soot in suspension.

I purchased a neglected [oil change wise] truck with 120K miles. It was a six cylinder and the rockers could be seen when the oil cap was removed. There was much gunk, but after numerous oil changes, the sludge disappeared.

Where I live, Rotella and Motorcraft FL1-A oil filters are sold by Walmart.

[85lebaront2]

Yes, I have. 1970 1/2 Falcon station wagon, 302 engine and C4. Engine looked like it had been run with Quacker Sludge in it. I switched it to Kendall and a then Autolite FL1 and we drove it. After about 6 months I pulled the valve covers and the fresh air inlet side was very clean, PCV valve side looked better and the sludge was breaking up slowly. The other was it's replacement after my oldest son destroyed the right rear fender by catching a bumper coming out of a parking lot. It was a 1971 Colony Park with a 429 2 barrel, that lasted just long enough to find a 4 barrel intake after determining the only difference was intake and carb. It had a couple of sticking lifters, so I did an oil change, put a quart of Type F fluid and the rest 10-30 Kendall and a new filter. I took it out on the interstate and ran it probably 50-60 miles round trip and the lifter shut up. Never had another problem with one.

[FuzzFace2]

Yes, I have. 1970 1/2 Falcon station wagon, 302 engine and C4. Engine looked like it had been run with Quacker Sludge in it. I switched it to Kendall and a then Autolite FL1 and we drove it. After about 6 months I pulled the valve covers and the fresh air inlet side was very clean, PCV valve side looked better and the sludge was breaking up slowly. The other was it's replacement after my oldest son destroyed the right rear fender by catching a bumper coming out of a parking lot. It was a 1971 Colony Park with a 429 2 barrel, that lasted just long enough to find a 4 barrel intake after determining the only difference was intake and carb. It had a couple of sticking lifters, so I did an oil change, put a quart of Type F fluid and the rest 10-30 Kendall and a new filter. I took it out on the interstate and ran it probably 50-60 miles round trip and the lifter shut up. Never had another problem with one.

The last oil change I added a qt of ATF, it was low, and only ran it for maybe 10 or 15 min before I dropped the oil & filter.

I was going to do the same the other day but did not have the right oil, good stuff and oil leaks is not wise, and no filter

Son picked me up a NAPA gold filter but I still need to get oil.

If I can remember I will get it and thinking of diesel oil because of what I have heard of it cleaning pretty good.

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think your mechanic is giving you good advice.

ATF has plenty of detergent and anti sludge additives.

Just keep changing the filter and the oil.

I use diesel oil because it is cheap and its detergent package + longer oil change intervals.

But if you know your engine is sludgy you might try ATF or Rislone and keep changing filters often.

A Motorcraft filter is only $3 at Wal-Mart.

You could swap the filter every 1,000 miles and keep driving on the same oil (+ a quart to make up for what's in the filter)

[Rusty_S85]

At work we've actually ran almost straight ATF for half an hour in a LS motor to try and clean the trash out of the lifters causing a tipping at idle that would come and go.

ATF is a good source for cleaning the engine out due to its detergent. I didnt put it in my 292 Y8 how ever I only run VR1 with its lower detergent level as my original rope seal main isnt leaking and being an original engine I rather not cause oil leaks by using high detergent oils.

[rcarlisle]

Maybe something like this too?

https://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/maintenance/berryman-oil-change-flush/

[ArdWrknTrk]

Maybe something like this too?

https://www.berrymanproducts.com/products/maintenance/berryman-oil-change-flush/

If the engine is really sludged up you pretty much want to stay away from anything drastic.

Ratboy has horror stories of having to drop the pan multiple times to change/clean the pickup after using Berryman's.

And with a 4x4 you can't get the pan off without pulling the engine.

 

[85lebaront2]

If the engine is really sludged up you pretty much want to stay away from anything drastic.

Ratboy has horror stories of having to drop the pan multiple times to change/clean the pickup after using Berryman's.

And with a 4x4 you can't get the pan off without pulling the engine.

One thing I found on the 351M and 400 engines, the drain back holes from the heads, one of them, and it has been long enough since I even messed with one of those, has a "corner" in it where it goes past a head bolt. I think it was the left rear and right front, but I'm not sure. An old speedometer cable core with the end frayed a bit will do a good job of clearing them. This was in a 1977 F150 with air, left side was a pain, right side was almost "Mission Impossible". And people wanted to know why I put a 390 in my 1977 F150. A lot more powerful than a 351M or 400 and with a 4 barrel got 16-17 mpg highway.

[delco1946]

One thing I found on the 351M and 400 engines, the drain back holes from the heads, one of them, and it has been long enough since I even messed with one of those, has a "corner" in it where it goes past a head bolt. I think it was the left rear and right front, but I'm not sure. An old speedometer cable core with the end frayed a bit will do a good job of clearing them. This was in a 1977 F150 with air, left side was a pain, right side was almost "Mission Impossible". And people wanted to know why I put a 390 in my 1977 F150. A lot more powerful than a 351M or 400 and with a 4 barrel got 16-17 mpg highway.

Well I guess i'll start by switching to diesel engine oil and start changing oil more frequently. The biggest challenge will be all the short trips I tend to make. Thanks for the tips!