FuzzFace2 Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 Working on the steering... Currently has a slight toe out. Problem I'm running into is that tie rod threaded ends are bottomed out in the adjustment sleeve. Am I correct in thinking I need to "tighten" that sleeve to correct the toe out, ie bringing the toe in? Anyone have any ideas on what I can do considering I don't have any more adjustment? So this is a 4x2 converted to 4x4 what steering parts were used? It could be you are using the 4x2 parts or a mix of them on this project when you need to use the 4x4 parts. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted July 16, 2021 Author Share Posted July 16, 2021 So this is a 4x2 converted to 4x4 what steering parts were used? It could be you are using the 4x2 parts or a mix of them on this project when you need to use the 4x4 parts. Dave ---- Yes it was a two-wheel drive to four-wheel drive conversion However I retained the tie rod ends that are connected to the steering knuckles that were on the Dana 60 when I got it. I installed the pitman arm off of my four-wheel drive truck, and I purchased new the tie rod end that connects to the drag link and the pitman arm. Those two pieces were for a four-wheel drive Dana 60 application. Even if the new pieces I installed are wrong which I don't think they are those parts has nothing to do with the toe. The only place to toe can be adjusted is that the tie rod end that connects the two wheels Edit: I think my solution is to take the tie rod end off and cut some of the threads off Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 Yes it was a two-wheel drive to four-wheel drive conversion However I retained the tie rod ends that are connected to the steering knuckles that were on the Dana 60 when I got it. I installed the pitman arm off of my four-wheel drive truck, and I purchased new the tie rod end that connects to the drag link and the pitman arm. Those two pieces were for a four-wheel drive Dana 60 application. Even if the new pieces I installed are wrong which I don't think they are those parts has nothing to do with the toe. The only place to toe can be adjusted is that the tie rod end that connects the two wheels Edit: I think my solution is to take the tie rod end off and cut some of the threads off Well if the parts were from the truck the 60 came from then it had to be toed out also. Was the truck crashed that the 60 came from? If so how badly was it crashed and thinking pretty good if it was totaled. I ask because the knuckles could have gotten bent where the tie rods bolt on making it toe out and not be able to get it back in. I had this happen once on a Toyota LC I use to race off road. I dont remember now if it was jumped or rolled but the toe also was out and could not adjust it as there was no more adjustment left. Because it was a race only truck we cut a chunk out of the center link and welded it back together with a pipe sleeve and was fine after that. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted July 16, 2021 Author Share Posted July 16, 2021 Well if the parts were from the truck the 60 came from then it had to be toed out also. Was the truck crashed that the 60 came from? If so how badly was it crashed and thinking pretty good if it was totaled. I ask because the knuckles could have gotten bent where the tie rods bolt on making it toe out and not be able to get it back in. I had this happen once on a Toyota LC I use to race off road. I dont remember now if it was jumped or rolled but the toe also was out and could not adjust it as there was no more adjustment left. Because it was a race only truck we cut a chunk out of the center link and welded it back together with a pipe sleeve and was fine after that. Dave ---- That's definitely a thought. I have little info on the truck it came out of. I don't think it was wrecked bc the guy I got it from said he got from a guy that bought the truck just for the flatbed. But could it have been wrecked, I suppose. I still have some threads outside the adjustment sleeve, so if I cut a half inch off the end of the tie rod I think that will get me close enough for what I'm doing. It's only toed out about 1/4 inch but I'd rather it have a 1/4 toe in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 Well if the parts were from the truck the 60 came from then it had to be toed out also. Was the truck crashed that the 60 came from? If so how badly was it crashed and thinking pretty good if it was totaled. I ask because the knuckles could have gotten bent where the tie rods bolt on making it toe out and not be able to get it back in. I had this happen once on a Toyota LC I use to race off road. I dont remember now if it was jumped or rolled but the toe also was out and could not adjust it as there was no more adjustment left. Because it was a race only truck we cut a chunk out of the center link and welded it back together with a pipe sleeve and was fine after that. Dave ---- I don't think this makes sense Dave. Are you suggesting the front axle is bent? An accident in the donor might bend the frame but that axle was installed on the 2WD truck. Cutting down the threaded ends seems the most expedient solution, as long as there are plenty more threads for the adjuster sleeves to engage. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted July 16, 2021 Author Share Posted July 16, 2021 I don't think this makes sense Dave. Are you suggesting the front axle is bent? An accident in the donor might bend the frame but that axle was installed on the 2WD truck. Cutting down the threaded ends seems the most expedient solution, as long as there are plenty more threads for the adjuster sleeves to engage. Considering everything fell right into place and lined up perfectly during the installation of the axle, I would also be extremely surprised if anything is tweaked on that axle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 Considering everything fell right into place and lined up perfectly during the installation of the axle, I would also be extremely surprised if anything is tweaked on that axle. I don't think anything is wrong. I was just wondering where Dave's head was going with the suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 16, 2021 Share Posted July 16, 2021 I don't think this makes sense Dave. Are you suggesting the front axle is bent? An accident in the donor might bend the frame but that axle was installed on the 2WD truck. Cutting down the threaded ends seems the most expedient solution, as long as there are plenty more threads for the adjuster sleeves to engage. No not the axle housing but the part the tie rods bolt to. I dont know how the axle is set up if they bolt on or part of the spindle / knuckle assy. but that part could be bent and cause the issue he has. Something has to be bent to cause this. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bp17oang Posted August 2, 2021 Author Share Posted August 2, 2021 I go the button to upload the photo, click the photo, then check center and big size. Then I add in the code to turn it 90° since my photos have always loaded turned for some reason. Then I enter in about three blank lines in the post above and below the photo, as Jim mentioned doing. Not sure. I'm barely a hillbilly mechanic let alone an IT specialist so I'm sure it's something I'm doing. What is this 90* code you speak of Dave ---- Hey guys, Anyone attempt, or have thoughts on, plumbing the transmission cooler in the radiator up as an oil cooler? It has oil filter adapter hookups. It maintains pretty decent oil pressure (70 psi at startup) but like most it does drop when it's hot (around 20). Just wondered if doing this might help or give her a little extended life before she needs bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted August 2, 2021 Share Posted August 2, 2021 Hey guys, Anyone attempt, or have thoughts on, plumbing the transmission cooler in the radiator up as an oil cooler? It has oil filter adapter hookups. It maintains pretty decent oil pressure (70 psi at startup) but like most it does drop when it's hot (around 20). Just wondered if doing this might help or give her a little extended life before she needs bearings. My 460/C6 has both the factory aux tranny cooler (includes routing through the radiator) as well as the factory aux oil cooler. I mention that only to say that the aux oil cooler lines are a lot bigger than the tranny lines so not sure how that would impact it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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