26ftcobraBBF Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Any reason not to? My thought would be to completely disconnect the radiator from the engine cap the inlet and outlet and fill with a solution of muriatic acid. Let it sit for a bit then flush it out with fresh water. Maybe do that twice, or three times however long it takes to get good flow out of it. I believe my radiator core is clogged up partially because the engine gets hot almost to the point of overheating at driving of speeds anything greater than 55mph. I did flush it about a month or two ago and replace the antifreeze, but it didn't come too clean looking through the top. I could only imagine what the bottom looked like. It has a new thermostat from Napa has a new water pump all new hoses. I do need to rule out the temperature sensor as a false positive reading. Thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 If you think the radiator is plugged run it so the stat just opens feel across the tube if hot, they should be all about the same temperature, if cold then plugged. I used vinegar and let it sit for a bit. Flushed and repeat. It was clean and leaking! I got a new one from Rock Auto. Aluminum & plastic works great. Dave. ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Test by disconnecting both hoses and using a tractor funnel to dump a 5 Gal pail of water through. In my opinion if it is scaled or clogged up that bad, don't waste your time. But a new (aluminum) replacement radiator and move on with your life. Others here are big on custom welded 3 or 4 row that don't fit, but I've got to say I changed mine to a basic plastic header rad when a bad fan clutch killed my water pump bushing... 20 years ago on the recommendation of the guy who owns the radiator shop. And it seems he's right. Just my 2c Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
26ftcobraBBF Posted February 17, 2021 Author Share Posted February 17, 2021 Test by disconnecting both hoses and using a tractor funnel to dump a 5 Gal pail of water through. In my opinion if it is scaled or clogged up that bad, don't waste your time. But a new (aluminum) replacement radiator and move on with your life. Others here are big on custom welded 3 or 4 row that don't fit, but I've got to say I changed mine to a basic plastic header rad when a bad fan clutch killed my water pump bushing... 20 years ago on the recommendation of the guy who owns the radiator shop. And it seems he's right. Just my 2c Hey Jim so your saying if it's not clogged I should be able to pour a pail of water through it almost effortlessly without it filling up? Good to know you advocate for the plastic aluminum, I was a little leary about trading my copper/ brass for aluminum and plastic. The price point sure Is attractive of the plastic aluminum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17, 2021 Share Posted February 17, 2021 Hey Jim so your saying if it's not clogged I should be able to pour a pail of water through it almost effortlessly without it filling up? Good to know you advocate for the plastic aluminum, I was a little leary about trading my copper/ brass for aluminum and plastic. The price point sure Is attractive of the plastic aluminum. From one hose to the other, not from the cap to the exit (which is the same header tank) Chlorine is horrible for brass. Ask anyone who reloads ammo. So Hydrochloric acid is about the WORST thing you could use. There are plenty of products to remove scale and rust. CLR or Iron Out are going to have sulfamic or citric acid. Acetic acid (cleaning vinegar) is cheap enough to fill a radiator and easy enough to find. If your radiator is working, don't go looking for a reason to change it. But aluminum has close to twice the thermal conductivity of brass. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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