grumpin Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 You are really doing well. On the choke, I like to set them almost closed with the engine cold. Leave maybe a 1/16" gap? But "cold" is a very relative term and you won't get it right on the first try. As for having to adjust the idle mix to get it to start and idle well, that accelerator pump has been leaking fuel into the mix and now you've eliminated that source of fuel and had to add it back with the needles. Well done, Carl! That’s great. I’d check my u joints and get those replaced if they need it, as they probably do from the noise, and go from there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 That’s great. I’d check my u joints and get those replaced if they need it, as they probably do from the noise, and go from there. Nice work On the "ping" it could be a bad joint. When lucky sometimes they talk to you with a chirping noise when taking off from a stop or that ping you got. Sometimes they will show rust too. I was not that lucky 1 time and only had a vibration on take off for 1 or 2 times where it did not do it long enough for me to look for it, then nothing for a month. Well getting on the high way one morning the vibration started really really bad where I could not drive it, yep bad Ujoint. Up to that point I had no real signs a Ujoint was bad. If you can block the wheels & set the Ebrake so you can take the pressure off the drive line and shake & twist the drive shaft at each Ujoint to see if they show any play. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 You are really doing well. On the choke, I like to set them almost closed with the engine cold. Leave maybe a 1/16" gap? But "cold" is a very relative term and you won't get it right on the first try. As for having to adjust the idle mix to get it to start and idle well, that accelerator pump has been leaking fuel into the mix and now you've eliminated that source of fuel and had to add it back with the needles. Well done, Carl! I have been doing some reading on chokes and specifically this 2150 that I have. It seems that this carb has provisions for both electric and hot air choke. The hot air choke is hooked up on this carb so I did not need to hook up the electric wire to it. That most likely explains why the truck ran differently after I hooked up the wire. I had two inputs trying to run the same choke. I haven't had a chance to unhook the wire yet and see how it runs. I'll follow up when I do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 I have been doing some reading on chokes and specifically this 2150 that I have. It seems that this carb has provisions for both electric and hot air choke. The hot air choke is hooked up on this carb so I did not need to hook up the electric wire to it. That most likely explains why the truck ran differently after I hooked up the wire. I had two inputs trying to run the same choke. I haven't had a chance to unhook the wire yet and see how it runs. I'll follow up when I do. The 2150's didn't have a full electric choke. It was mainly hot air with electric assist. This is from our page at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Chokes: Hot Air w/Electric Assist: The 1981 factory shop manual says this: "The hot air choke with the electric assist choke cap functions as follows: as the engine warms up, manifold heat transmitted by hot air to the choke housing relaxes the bimetal permitting the choke to open. The electric assist has a ceramic heating pill. At temperatures above 12 degrees C (54 degrees F) to 23 degrees C (74 degrees F), the temperature sensing switch closes and current is supplied to the heater causing the bimetal to pull the choke plate open at an increased rate. The electric assist choke cap is powered from the stator tap of the alternator." Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 The 2150's didn't have a full electric choke. It was mainly hot air with electric assist. This is from our page at Documentation/Fuel Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Chokes: Hot Air w/Electric Assist: The 1981 factory shop manual says this: "The hot air choke with the electric assist choke cap functions as follows: as the engine warms up, manifold heat transmitted by hot air to the choke housing relaxes the bimetal permitting the choke to open. The electric assist has a ceramic heating pill. At temperatures above 12 degrees C (54 degrees F) to 23 degrees C (74 degrees F), the temperature sensing switch closes and current is supplied to the heater causing the bimetal to pull the choke plate open at an increased rate. The electric assist choke cap is powered from the stator tap of the alternator." I’m so confused! Leave it to Ford to come up with a hybrid system. I never saw any reference to an electric assist choke but obviously it is a thing. I’ll leave the wire attached and continue to tune as needed to get it set up correctly. I should go back and check my 1980 engine manual and see if I can find the same paragraph on choke operation. Thanks again for setting me straight! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 21, 2021 Share Posted March 21, 2021 I’m so confused! Leave it to Ford to come up with a hybrid system. I never saw any reference to an electric assist choke but obviously it is a thing. I’ll leave the wire attached and continue to tune as needed to get it set up correctly. I should go back and check my 1980 engine manual and see if I can find the same paragraph on choke operation. Thanks again for setting me straight! I don't know why they made it complicated like that, but that looks like a bandaid to some problem with the hot air choke. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted April 10, 2021 Author Share Posted April 10, 2021 I don't know why they made it complicated like that, but that looks like a bandaid to some problem with the hot air choke. What fluid is everyone using in their differentials and transfer cases? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 What fluid is everyone using in their differentials and transfer cases? The transfer cases use ATF and I'm using Amsoil ATLQT Signature Series Fuel-Efficient Synthetic Automatic Transmission Fluid in mine. And Scott/Kramttocs likes the Amsoil Severe Gear Synthetic lube, as shown below, for diffs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted April 10, 2021 Share Posted April 10, 2021 What fluid is everyone using in their differentials and transfer cases? I have synthetic Merc-V in my 1356 and I went with NAPA synthetic 75-120 in the 10.25 when I last had the cover off. I do believe I have Royal Purple Synchromax in the Zf-5. I know I changed it out a lot in the beginning using conventional ATF. It had been sitting outside for a while and obviously got full of water . But eventually the fluid stopped looking like a strawberry milkshake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted April 12, 2021 Author Share Posted April 12, 2021 I have synthetic Merc-V in my 1356 and I went with NAPA synthetic 75-120 in the 10.25 when I last had the cover off. I do believe I have Royal Purple Synchromax in the Zf-5. I know I changed it out a lot in the beginning using conventional ATF. It had been sitting outside for a while and obviously got full of water . But eventually the fluid stopped looking like a strawberry milkshake. Thanks for the insight into fluids for transfer cases and differentials. What about engine oil recommendations for the 400? I read about zink levels and oil pressure issues in the 400 so I am curious what others are running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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