ArdWrknTrk Posted June 28, 2021 Share Posted June 28, 2021 Good find, Jim. Although 7 of them seems an odd number to sell. Anyway, I was wondering what the torque spec is on them and found the following in the factory shop manual. But that doesn't list those bolts, unless I'm missing something. However, on line I'm finding that a 7/16-14 G5 would normally be torqued to 50 lb-ft, and a G8 to 70. So, are they torquing them past that? They are supposed to be 4 to a box. That would mean you need four boxes of them every time you want to access the drums on this axle...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 28, 2021 Author Share Posted June 28, 2021 Good find, Jim. Although 7 of them seems an odd number to sell. Anyway, I was wondering what the torque spec is on them and found the following in the factory shop manual. But that doesn't list those bolts, unless I'm missing something. However, on line I'm finding that a 7/16-14 G5 would normally be torqued to 50 lb-ft, and a G8 to 70. So, are they torquing them past that? My 1980 Ford truck maintenance manual says 40 to 50 ft lbs. I torqued mine to 46. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 29, 2021 Share Posted June 29, 2021 My 1980 Ford truck maintenance manual says 40 to 50 ft lbs. I torqued mine to 46. Those are clearly Grade 5 bolts given the markings on them. And the spec's I've found say that a G5 is typically torqued to 50 lb-ft. So if the factory manual says torque them to 40 - 50 then they are not torqued to yield. They should be reusable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted July 5, 2021 Author Share Posted July 5, 2021 Those are clearly Grade 5 bolts given the markings on them. And the spec's I've found say that a G5 is typically torqued to 50 lb-ft. So if the factory manual says torque them to 40 - 50 then they are not torqued to yield. They should be reusable. Ok, silly question. How does the distributor cap come off? I released the two latches but I can't seem to get it off. Does it twist off or is it just stuck? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 5, 2021 Share Posted July 5, 2021 Ok, silly question. How does the distributor cap come off? I released the two latches but I can't seem to get it off. Does it twist off or is it just stuck? It's just the two bails that hold it on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted July 6, 2021 Author Share Posted July 6, 2021 It's just the two bails that hold it on. Thanks Jim! The cap was stuck pretty good but finally let loose and I was able to get it off. To my surprise everything was still Motorcraft. I would have thought that if the cap and/or rotor were changed they would have been a different brand. Certainly not impossible that the previous owner used all Motorcraft parts though. It does look a little crusty in there. Not sure if it is causing any issues but maybe a new cap and rotor will be in my future. I also pulled a spark plug out today for the first time. They are also Motorcraft but I didn’t think they looked too bad. I forgot to snap a photo but I’m sure I can get one soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 6, 2021 Share Posted July 6, 2021 Thanks Jim! The cap was stuck pretty good but finally let loose and I was able to get it off. To my surprise everything was still Motorcraft. I would have thought that if the cap and/or rotor were changed they would have been a different brand. Certainly not impossible that the previous owner used all Motorcraft parts though. It does look a little crusty in there. Not sure if it is causing any issues but maybe a new cap and rotor will be in my future. I also pulled a spark plug out today for the first time. They are also Motorcraft but I didn’t think they looked too bad. I forgot to snap a photo but I’m sure I can get one soon. I would blow out the dist to get the dust & dirt out. That cap adapter dose come off the dist. and I would wash the inside of it before I put the other new parts on. Dust & Ozone can cause cross firing and why it should stay clean. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted August 9, 2021 Author Share Posted August 9, 2021 I would blow out the dist to get the dust & dirt out. That cap adapter dose come off the dist. and I would wash the inside of it before I put the other new parts on. Dust & Ozone can cause cross firing and why it should stay clean. Dave ---- I haven’t been able to work on the truck for a while due to family events and the like. But today I managed to find a few hours to finish reassembling the rear brakes. I now have a new wheel cylinder on the passenger side and new hardware on both sides. The shoes were is good shape with lots of life left so I reused them. I also put in a new brake line from the rear splitter to the passenger side. Next step…bleed the brakes…again. Hopefully I can get a good pedal this time and the bubbles will be gone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 I haven’t been able to work on the truck for a while due to family events and the like. But today I managed to find a few hours to finish reassembling the rear brakes. I now have a new wheel cylinder on the passenger side and new hardware on both sides. The shoes were is good shape with lots of life left so I reused them. I also put in a new brake line from the rear splitter to the passenger side. Next step…bleed the brakes…again. Hopefully I can get a good pedal this time and the bubbles will be gone. Nice job! Those hardware kits are well worth it if the brakes haven't been serviced in a while. Beats dealing with grimy parts or waiting on the parts washer if time sensitive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 9, 2021 Share Posted August 9, 2021 I haven’t been able to work on the truck for a while due to family events and the like. But today I managed to find a few hours to finish reassembling the rear brakes. I now have a new wheel cylinder on the passenger side and new hardware on both sides. The shoes were is good shape with lots of life left so I reused them. I also put in a new brake line from the rear splitter to the passenger side. Next step…bleed the brakes…again. Hopefully I can get a good pedal this time and the bubbles will be gone. Well done! I'll bet it stops much better once you get it bled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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