Atlas75 Posted June 13, 2021 Author Share Posted June 13, 2021 It is a 4.10:1 limited slip axle EOTA ARA are the prefix and suffix completing the Ford engineering number. 603947-4 is the bill of materials, aka BOM So it is a Dana 61. I thought it might have been but I wasn't sure until now. Thanks Jim! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 13, 2021 Share Posted June 13, 2021 So it is a Dana 61. I thought it might have been but I wasn't sure until now. Thanks Jim! There are tables you can use to decode the BOM, but I don't know them well enough to do it off the top of my head. Do you know what you're going to do with your axle now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 14, 2021 Author Share Posted June 14, 2021 There are tables you can use to decode the BOM, but I don't know them well enough to do it off the top of my head. Do you know what you're going to do with your axle now? I am currently disassembling the passenger side to figure out why the brakes won't apply on that side. Depending on what I find, I may need any number of parts so knowing the axel model will help in that endeavor. On a side note, I ordered the 2 9/16 socket from Amazon yesterday because they advertised delivery on Sunday. I have yet to see it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 15, 2021 Author Share Posted June 15, 2021 I am currently disassembling the passenger side to figure out why the brakes won't apply on that side. Depending on what I find, I may need any number of parts so knowing the axel model will help in that endeavor. On a side note, I ordered the 2 9/16 socket from Amazon yesterday because they advertised delivery on Sunday. I have yet to see it. Well..Amazon never did deliver my socket. . Instead they sent me an email saying they were cancelling my order due to a shipping error. So I started calling around and I found one at Arnold’s Motor Supply. I made the purchase and I’m kinda glad I did. The socket they had looked to be of heavier construction than the one I found on Amazon. Of course I needed to try it out as soon as I got home. It fit perfectly and the nut was off in no time. I pulled out the outer bearing and set it aside. Then I removed the drum and this is what greeted me. Two broken springs and a whole lotta dust!! The shoes still look like they have life though. I had my daughter watch while I gently pressed on the brake and she said the shoe’s didn’t move. So I pressed harder and harder and harder and finally she said it moved a little bit…and then only the front shoe moved. I’m guessing the wheel cylinder is shot. Based on how hard I was pressing it should have shot the piston out of that wheel cylinder. Bearings…is there an easy way to tell if the bearings are still good? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted June 15, 2021 Share Posted June 15, 2021 Well..Amazon never did deliver my socket. . Instead they sent me an email saying they were cancelling my order due to a shipping error. So I started calling around and I found one at Arnold’s Motor Supply. I made the purchase and I’m kinda glad I did. The socket they had looked to be of heavier construction than the one I found on Amazon. Of course I needed to try it out as soon as I got home. It fit perfectly and the nut was off in no time. I pulled out the outer bearing and set it aside. Then I removed the drum and this is what greeted me. Two broken springs and a whole lotta dust!! The shoes still look like they have life though. I had my daughter watch while I gently pressed on the brake and she said the shoe’s didn’t move. So I pressed harder and harder and harder and finally she said it moved a little bit…and then only the front shoe moved. I’m guessing the wheel cylinder is shot. Based on how hard I was pressing it should have shot the piston out of that wheel cylinder. Bearings…is there an easy way to tell if the bearings are still good? Well, the piston likely would have popped out if it wasn't seized. Given the condition of that drum I'd check the other. If you have broken hardware instead of simply unhooked springs you might as well buy two kits. The only way to "check" a bearing is to inspect the races carefully for pits or fretting. Remember, the number of clicks off from the torque value differs for new and used bearings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 16, 2021 Author Share Posted June 16, 2021 Well, the piston likely would have popped out if it wasn't seized. Given the condition of that drum I'd check the other. If you have broken hardware instead of simply unhooked springs you might as well buy two kits. The only way to "check" a bearing is to inspect the races carefully for pits or fretting. Remember, the number of clicks off from the torque value differs for new and used bearings. I have yet to inspect the inner bearing/race but the outer is smooth as glass. To pitting or gauling or other imperfections of any kind on the race. I wish I knew how old they really were. We'll see what the inners look like as soon as I get the seal out. As far as torquing the bearings, this is what my 1980 Ford manual says for this axel. Does this sound like generally accepted practice today? Oh yea...what is a bearing cup? This Ford manual talks about bearings, races, and cups. Never heard that term before. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted June 16, 2021 Share Posted June 16, 2021 I have yet to inspect the inner bearing/race but the outer is smooth as glass. To pitting or gauling or other imperfections of any kind on the race. I wish I knew how old they really were. We'll see what the inners look like as soon as I get the seal out. As far as torquing the bearings, this is what my 1980 Ford manual says for this axel. Does this sound like generally accepted practice today? Oh yea...what is a bearing cup? This Ford manual talks about bearings, races, and cups. Never heard that term before. Carl - We have the factory service manual section here: 11-14 WHEEL HUBS & BEARINGS - REAR (FULL FLOATING AXLE). But it looks like it says the same thing yours does. As for a cup, I think a that is the outer race and the inner race is called a cone. But that's just what I think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 17, 2021 Author Share Posted June 17, 2021 Carl - We have the factory service manual section here: 11-14 WHEEL HUBS & BEARINGS - REAR (FULL FLOATING AXLE). But it looks like it says the same thing yours does. As for a cup, I think a that is the outer race and the inner race is called a cone. But that's just what I think. I did a quick google search and it seems like cup and cone is a bearing style where the cone is the bearing assembly and the cup is the race “assembly”. I’m guessing the race is technically the surface that the bearing rides on and the whole thing is a cup. Like I said… quick google search. Quick question. Has anyone used this product in their limited slip differentials? I know everyone has their favorite brand, but are the specifications correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted June 17, 2021 Share Posted June 17, 2021 I did a quick google search and it seems like cup and cone is a bearing style where the cone is the bearing assembly and the cup is the race “assembly”. I’m guessing the race is technically the surface that the bearing rides on and the whole thing is a cup. Like I said… quick google search. Quick question. Has anyone used this product in their limited slip differentials? I know everyone has their favorite brand, but are the specifications correct? If it has LS on the container I would use it. Some say to also add the small bottle of LS oil so the clutch plates dont chatter. On a 86 full size Blazer I never added it and had no issues but my 02 Durango I had the dealer change the oil so I dont know what it was filled with but when it gets hot like a 30 min. high way run and you get off when you make a turn under power you can feel the clutch plates chattering. I just had the dealer check again but they only checked level and did not add the little bottle of LS oil to stop the chattering. I dont know if they did not under stand what I was saying or they did not care as the truck has 252,000 miles? I also did not see them check the level as I could see them from the waiting area. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Atlas75 Posted June 19, 2021 Author Share Posted June 19, 2021 If it has LS on the container I would use it. Some say to also add the small bottle of LS oil so the clutch plates dont chatter. On a 86 full size Blazer I never added it and had no issues but my 02 Durango I had the dealer change the oil so I dont know what it was filled with but when it gets hot like a 30 min. high way run and you get off when you make a turn under power you can feel the clutch plates chattering. I just had the dealer check again but they only checked level and did not add the little bottle of LS oil to stop the chattering. I dont know if they did not under stand what I was saying or they did not care as the truck has 252,000 miles? I also did not see them check the level as I could see them from the waiting area. Dave ---- I received my box of goodies from RockAuto but before I dive in I have a bearing question. I keep reading differing opinions on how to prep the bearings for install. Some say to pack them with grease for initial use and then over time the differential fluid will wash it away and the bearings will be lubed by the differential fluid. Others say to fill the center of the hub with differential fluid and that will be enough for start up. I have read other variants on these themes as well including soaking them in the differential fluid before install. Which method gives the bearing the best shot at a long life? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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