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1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project


Atlas75

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those 12-16.5 are real old like probably early 80's, I think they still use those sizes on skidsteers.

As for your brakes make sure your not having a problem with the proportioning valve I have had a few of these cause problems with bleeding especially on trucks that sat for long periods. Another trick on bleeding the brakes that I have found works is pump up the pedal and then have someone open the bleeder while you are not holding pressure and then stab the pedal to the floor. If you are not getting good flow try to bleed a front brake then go back to the rear sometimes this will reset the proportioning valve.

DOT requires a date code on every tire.

There should be a mark showing year and week of manufacture.

If he is getting fresh fluid out of one rear bleeder I don't think the shuttle valve has cut off the rear of the system.

IIRC, 100/150's have a button you depress and 250/350's need to be pulled out when you jam on the pedal to re-center the spool.

But, in any case, the brake warning light should be on if the 'proportioning' valve was upset.

Usually a soft pedal is down to old hoses or rear brakes being out of adjustment.

It is only the line from the rear brake hose splitter to the right wheel cylinder that could have dirty fluid, if the driver's side is coming out clean.

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DOT requires a date code on every tire.

There should be a mark showing year and week of manufacture.

If he is getting fresh fluid out of one rear bleeder I don't think the shuttle valve has cut off the rear of the system.

IIRC, 100/150's have a button you depress and 250/350's need to be pulled out when you jam on the pedal to re-center the spool.

But, in any case, the brake warning light should be on if the 'proportioning' valve was upset.

Usually a soft pedal is down to old hoses or rear brakes being out of adjustment.

It is only the line from the rear brake hose splitter to the right wheel cylinder that could have dirty fluid, if the driver's side is coming out clean.

I use this one on the net. It helps me a lot figuring snow chains that fit that don't have the tire size listed for the part number of the chain. has a lot of other info also. Even has a tire size comparison by the size of the wheel.

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

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DOT requires a date code on every tire.

There should be a mark showing year and week of manufacture.

If he is getting fresh fluid out of one rear bleeder I don't think the shuttle valve has cut off the rear of the system.

IIRC, 100/150's have a button you depress and 250/350's need to be pulled out when you jam on the pedal to re-center the spool.

But, in any case, the brake warning light should be on if the 'proportioning' valve was upset.

Usually a soft pedal is down to old hoses or rear brakes being out of adjustment.

It is only the line from the rear brake hose splitter to the right wheel cylinder that could have dirty fluid, if the driver's side is coming out clean.

I took another look at the tires and I found the number 9305. So that means these were made in the 5th week of 1993? Yikes!

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There should be a little vent cap with a clip that attaches to the top frame rail.

Someone else was saying that a mud dauber had plugged theirs up, so it couldn't hurt to check.

I really don't know anything about the pump, which seems to be outside the frame rail, below your cab.

Could it be that someone rigged it up until proper replacement parts for a dead fuel pump were found?

Here is a better photo of the “thing” mounted to the left frame rail of my truck. It is not hooked to anything anymore and upon tracing the wire, I found the other end laying loose under the dash by the fuse panel. Given its abandoned condition I decided to cut off the wire and pull it out. Good riddance to the extra clutter!

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Here is a better photo of the “thing” mounted to the left frame rail of my truck. It is not hooked to anything anymore and upon tracing the wire, I found the other end laying loose under the dash by the fuse panel. Given its abandoned condition I decided to cut off the wire and pull it out. Good riddance to the extra clutter!

Might help if I attached the photo! :nabble_anim_crazy:

390F8597-0565-4116-803E-205C5B491F20.thumb.jpeg.945f2eca11e14b6eb738d408fa32b25e.jpeg

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I took another look at the tires and I found the number 9305. So that means these were made in the 5th week of 1993? Yikes!

Are you sure the 9 isn't a 4? The older date codes pre-2000 usually only had three digits identifying the week and year of the decade, but not which decade. Yours seems to be post 2000, so the first two digits would be the week, and the last two the year. So in your example assuming the 9 is actually a 4, your tires would be from the 43rd week of 2005.

There is a company called Power King that is still making classic style commercial light truck tires in the old sizes for agricultural use, but I've seen them thrown on these old trucks quite often recently. So I doubt your tires are THAT old.

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Might help if I attached the photo! :nabble_anim_crazy:

I have an electrical question. My turn signals in the front work as they should. The ones in the rear, however, both blink when the turn signal switch is positioned left or right. I looked in my EVTM and it looks like there is nothing between the turn signal switch and the rear lights. Anything else I should check or does it seem like a new turn signal switch is in my future?

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I have an electrical question. My turn signals in the front work as they should. The ones in the rear, however, both blink when the turn signal switch is positioned left or right. I looked in my EVTM and it looks like there is nothing between the turn signal switch and the rear lights. Anything else I should check or does it seem like a new turn signal switch is in my future?

Yeah, there's not much to it other than the switch, as shown below. Typically oddities are due to grounds, but I can't see grounds doing what you are seeing. So it seems like it must be the switch - although I can't figure out how it could do it either. :nabble_anim_crazy:

8850147.thumb.jpg.1091a783a350479e66c5eedefa1c35fb.jpg

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Might help if I attached the photo! :nabble_anim_crazy:

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n97527/390F8597-0565-4116-803E-205C5B491F20.jpeg

That looks like a 3 port tank switching valve & wire to it.

Dose or did this truck have dual tanks?

It may have had a 2nd tank in the bed and they run off it till it ran dry and switched to the main tank with the gauge.

Dave ----

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Might help if I attached the photo! :nabble_anim_crazy:

http://forum.garysgaragemahal.com/file/n97527/390F8597-0565-4116-803E-205C5B491F20.jpeg

That looks like a 3 port tank switching valve & wire to it.

Dose or did this truck have dual tanks?

It may have had a 2nd tank in the bed and they run off it till it ran dry and switched to the main tank with the gauge.

Dave ----

Before you asked this question I would have said the truck did not have dual tanks because there was no switch next to the heater control. However, upon further inspection I think maybe it did. I found this under the steering column. I assume there was a switch in the hole at one time. Is this possibly an aftermarket system? The mid tank is the only one I have and there is a special bumper/hitch that has been installed. Maybe the rear tank was removed to make room for the hitch??

0C8519E2-A9F1-4111-9475-EF3031A7F7A3.jpeg.d612495ff2e4786a745a19aba1821ff1.jpeg

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