Jump to content
Bullnose Forums

1980 F350 4X4 C6 Project


Atlas75

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 460
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey Carl,

I am ALL OVER this. Thanks for the pics. I decided to buy new ball joints, and will remove the knuckle *or try to) and try this out myself.

What did you use to remove the ball joints?

Thanks for this. Very helpful!

To remove the ball joints, I rented a ball joint press from my local auto parts store. They came out pretty easily. I think the thing that helped the drivers side go easier than the passenger side did was my investment in a 1/2 drive cordless impact. It has made many jobs a lot easier. This one included. I find myself using it a lot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

To remove the ball joints, I rented a ball joint press from my local auto parts store. They came out pretty easily. I think the thing that helped the drivers side go easier than the passenger side did was my investment in a 1/2 drive cordless impact. It has made many jobs a lot easier. This one included. I find myself using it a lot.

Hey Carl,

Thanks....I was a little confused by the SM which says the bottom must be removed first, and I cannot "see" how that is possible. Near as I can tell the upper has to come out for the tool to go through to press it out. I have to be missing something.

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Carl,

Thanks....I was a little confused by the SM which says the bottom must be removed first, and I cannot "see" how that is possible. Near as I can tell the upper has to come out for the tool to go through to press it out. I have to be missing something.

Cheers!

The lower one does need to come out first. It presses out towards the upper ball joint. Once that one is out, there will be room for the screw of the ball joint press to slide into the hole vacated by the lower ball joint. Then you can press out the upper.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The lower one does need to come out first. It presses out towards the upper ball joint. Once that one is out, there will be room for the screw of the ball joint press to slide into the hole vacated by the lower ball joint. Then you can press out the upper.

Is type F transmission fluid correct for the power steering in our trucks?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes. That is the recommended fill for the C2 pumps.

I have never been good at reading spark plugs so I am hoping someone here is a natural at it. These are from the drivers side. I ran out of light to change the passenger side so they will get changed tomorrow.

D3A2F74A-79EE-4AD6-A151-8BF0B5C463F5.jpeg.ca793f718e11a97cef34898864887e30.jpeg

F51C1123-CB72-4543-BE27-38158C8ACEE6.jpeg.abe0f0649ea69621102cdccf3c8a0024.jpeg

They do appear to be uniform…just not sure if it’s a good uniform or a bad uniform!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

I have never been good at reading spark plugs so I am hoping someone here is a natural at it. These are from the drivers side. I ran out of light to change the passenger side so they will get changed tomorrow.

They do appear to be uniform…just not sure if it’s a good uniform or a bad uniform!

It has been a bit since I last posted and I am back with a carburetor question for the group. I recently pulled and rebuilt my Motorcraft 2150 with a Mike’s carb kit. While going through the carb I found a couple missing gaskets and a lot of crud. I am surprised the thing ran at all! Anyway, I reinstalled the carb and the truck fired right up. But….I have a flooding problem. I have gas coming out of the fuel bowl vent. Could it be as simple as the needle not seating or is there something bigger going on like too much fuel pressure? It never flooded before the rebuild but it was running rich…presumably because the power valve gasket was missing so there was fuel on both sides of the power valve when I took it apart. Thanks for any insight you can provide.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It has been a bit since I last posted and I am back with a carburetor question for the group. I recently pulled and rebuilt my Motorcraft 2150 with a Mike’s carb kit. While going through the carb I found a couple missing gaskets and a lot of crud. I am surprised the thing ran at all! Anyway, I reinstalled the carb and the truck fired right up. But….I have a flooding problem. I have gas coming out of the fuel bowl vent. Could it be as simple as the needle not seating or is there something bigger going on like too much fuel pressure? It never flooded before the rebuild but it was running rich…presumably because the power valve gasket was missing so there was fuel on both sides of the power valve when I took it apart. Thanks for any insight you can provide.

It sounds like you may have the needle suspended incorrectly, causing it not to seat. This illustration from the factory shop manual (Documentation/Fuel & Air Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150) shows how it is supposed to be installed, but it is pretty easy to get it wrong and cause a problem. Luckily it is easy to take the top off the 2150 in situ and fix that.

2150_Float_Suspension.jpg.b3871aff459b1f5a22f56394ec993c2a.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

It sounds like you may have the needle suspended incorrectly, causing it not to seat. This illustration from the factory shop manual (Documentation/Fuel & Air Systems/Carburetors, Chokes, & EFI/Motorcraft 2150) shows how it is supposed to be installed, but it is pretty easy to get it wrong and cause a problem. Luckily it is easy to take the top off the 2150 in situ and fix that.

Carb is fixed! The issue was the new retainer clip from the rebuild kit that locks around the seat. It was somehow binding with the float and not allowing it to move up and down freely. I went back to the original retainer clip and everything moves freely now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites


×
×
  • Create New...