Fixing Eddie

[firefire]

No.

Your advance seems to use timed vacuum, directly from the carburetor port.

It is impossible for me to know all the variants.

So we need to understand why your distributor sees so much vacuum.(or why it is pulling in so much timing)

Hi.

Yesteday I found out that the vacuum advance valve is adjustable. So I took it off and found that an unbraco 1/8 " fits. My vacuum valve was adjusted all in. The lowest spring pressure against membran/ vacuum. Adjusted it all out, 18 turns, resulted in much more spring pressure. After this vacuum valve started moving at -5hg and reached max pull at -14hg. So today I put it back. The most difficult part was not loosing and mounting this little clip.

With vacuum connected the engine runs fine at idle , 600 rpm. Ignition 5 BTDC. At 2000rpm 28 BTDC. 3000 rpm 32 BTDC. I think this is closer to correct timing.

Then I still have this problem that the engine hesitates and/or stops when I give it throttle. From a stand still or from just slowly driving. Today I tried adjusting up higher idle with the idle screw. Didnt get higher idle, but backfire:nabble_smiley_scared: The accelerator pump was adjusted to max early pump. Tried to back it off again. Didnt help. Is it an idea to try to adjust the secondary throttle blades to a more open position ? I can see they are closed good. If so, do somebody know which unbraco size or what fits that invisible screw head ?

Greetings from Norway.

[Gary Lewis]

Hi.

Yesteday I found out that the vacuum advance valve is adjustable. So I took it off and found that an unbraco 1/8 " fits. My vacuum valve was adjusted all in. The lowest spring pressure against membran/ vacuum. Adjusted it all out, 18 turns, resulted in much more spring pressure. After this vacuum valve started moving at -5hg and reached max pull at -14hg. So today I put it back. The most difficult part was not loosing and mounting this little clip.

With vacuum connected the engine runs fine at idle , 600 rpm. Ignition 5 BTDC. At 2000rpm 28 BTDC. 3000 rpm 32 BTDC. I think this is closer to correct timing.

Then I still have this problem that the engine hesitates and/or stops when I give it throttle. From a stand still or from just slowly driving. Today I tried adjusting up higher idle with the idle screw. Didnt get higher idle, but backfire:nabble_smiley_scared: The accelerator pump was adjusted to max early pump. Tried to back it off again. Didnt help. Is it an idea to try to adjust the secondary throttle blades to a more open position ? I can see they are closed good. If so, do somebody know which unbraco size or what fits that invisible screw head ?

Greetings from Norway.

I think your adjustment will make a big difference, and those vacuum numbers are a lot closer to what I would have expected.

On the hesitation or stalling, that's frequently due to a bad accelerator pump. Do you know for sure that it is working? I would pull the air cleaner and, with the engine off, briskly open the throttle and see if you have two jets of fuel going into the carb.

If so, then I'd open the idle mix screws from 1/4 to 1/2 turn and see if that helps. Otherwise, I'm lost.

And by the way, you might up your initial timing to 8 degrees BTDC and see if it helps overall.

[grumpin]

I think your adjustment will make a big difference, and those vacuum numbers are a lot closer to what I would have expected.

On the hesitation or stalling, that's frequently due to a bad accelerator pump. Do you know for sure that it is working? I would pull the air cleaner and, with the engine off, briskly open the throttle and see if you have two jets of fuel going into the carb.

If so, then I'd open the idle mix screws from 1/4 to 1/2 turn and see if that helps. Otherwise, I'm lost.

And by the way, you might up your initial timing to 8 degrees BTDC and see if it helps overall.

I agree with Gary, one other thing is go up a number or 2 on the jets. I did with mine and it helped with a hesitation I had when the engine wasn’t warmed up.

It’s my understanding that the secondaries opening too soon will cause a bog or hesitation.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I agree with Gary, one other thing is go up a number or 2 on the jets. I did with mine and it helped with a hesitation I had when the engine wasn’t warmed up.

It’s my understanding that the secondaries opening too soon will cause a bog or hesitation.

Dane, he's talking about using the stop screw to crack the blade, not installing different springs, which changes how fast they would open (once the lockout linkage would allow it)

I agree with Gary.

I think you want at least 8° initial.

Many of us will use up to 12°

But that depends on how wide a slot we have in the centrifugal advance limiter.

[FuzzFace2]

I think your adjustment will make a big difference, and those vacuum numbers are a lot closer to what I would have expected.

On the hesitation or stalling, that's frequently due to a bad accelerator pump. Do you know for sure that it is working? I would pull the air cleaner and, with the engine off, briskly open the throttle and see if you have two jets of fuel going into the carb.

If so, then I'd open the idle mix screws from 1/4 to 1/2 turn and see if that helps. Otherwise, I'm lost.

And by the way, you might up your initial timing to 8 degrees BTDC and see if it helps overall.

As for the "briskly open the throttle" it may squirt but if you go easy like when driving you may not get it to squirt so try to move throttle easy also.

Dane, he's talking about using the stop screw to crack the blade, not installing different springs, which changes how fast they would open (once the lockout linkage would allow it)

I agree with Gary.

I think you want at least 8° initial.

Many of us will use up to 12°

But that depends on how wide a slot we have in the centrifugal advance limiter.

The stop screw is used when the idle speed screw is turned in to much and the idle mixture screws do nothing. You would open the secondary throttle just a little (it causes a controlled vacuum leak) and you can then lower the idle speed so the mixture screws will work.

FYI on a v2 carb that dose not have a secondary throttle you would need to drill small holes on the throttle blades to cause a vacuum leak. Go to big and you will never get the idle speed screw to work!

On the timing I would bump it up to 10* - 12* BTDC as long as you dont get pinging.

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think your adjustment will make a big difference, and those vacuum numbers are a lot closer to what I would have expected.

On the hesitation or stalling, that's frequently due to a bad accelerator pump. Do you know for sure that it is working? I would pull the air cleaner and, with the engine off, briskly open the throttle and see if you have two jets of fuel going into the carb.

If so, then I'd open the idle mix screws from 1/4 to 1/2 turn and see if that helps. Otherwise, I'm lost.

And by the way, you might up your initial timing to 8 degrees BTDC and see if it helps overall.

As for the "briskly open the throttle" it may squirt but if you go easy like when driving you may not get it to squirt so try to move throttle easy also.

Dane, he's talking about using the stop screw to crack the blade, not installing different springs, which changes how fast they would open (once the lockout linkage would allow it)

I agree with Gary.

I think you want at least 8° initial.

Many of us will use up to 12°

But that depends on how wide a slot we have in the centrifugal advance limiter.

The stop screw is used when the idle speed screw is turned in to much and the idle mixture screws do nothing. You would open the secondary throttle just a little (it causes a controlled vacuum leak) and you can then lower the idle speed so the mixture screws will work.

FYI on a v2 carb that dose not have a secondary throttle you would need to drill small holes on the throttle blades to cause a vacuum leak. Go to big and you will never get the idle speed screw to work!

On the timing I would bump it up to 10* - 12* BTDC as long as you dont get pinging.

Dave ----

It's not a "vacuum leak" if the throttle plate is exposing the transfer ports....

[FuzzFace2]

It's not a "vacuum leak" if the throttle plate is exposing the transfer ports....

No I meant when you use the little screw to open the secondaries a little (the vacuum leak) so you can close the primary side to close the transfer slot some.

Dave ----

[firefire]

I think your adjustment will make a big difference, and those vacuum numbers are a lot closer to what I would have expected.

On the hesitation or stalling, that's frequently due to a bad accelerator pump. Do you know for sure that it is working? I would pull the air cleaner and, with the engine off, briskly open the throttle and see if you have two jets of fuel going into the carb.

If so, then I'd open the idle mix screws from 1/4 to 1/2 turn and see if that helps. Otherwise, I'm lost.

And by the way, you might up your initial timing to 8 degrees BTDC and see if it helps overall.

As for the "briskly open the throttle" it may squirt but if you go easy like when driving you may not get it to squirt so try to move throttle easy also.

Dane, he's talking about using the stop screw to crack the blade, not installing different springs, which changes how fast they would open (once the lockout linkage would allow it)

I agree with Gary.

I think you want at least 8° initial.

Many of us will use up to 12°

But that depends on how wide a slot we have in the centrifugal advance limiter.

The stop screw is used when the idle speed screw is turned in to much and the idle mixture screws do nothing. You would open the secondary throttle just a little (it causes a controlled vacuum leak) and you can then lower the idle speed so the mixture screws will work.

FYI on a v2 carb that dose not have a secondary throttle you would need to drill small holes on the throttle blades to cause a vacuum leak. Go to big and you will never get the idle speed screw to work!

On the timing I would bump it up to 10* - 12* BTDC as long as you dont get pinging.

Dave ----

Hi all. Thanks for your feedback. I cleaned the accelerator pump nozzle. It had restrictions. Much better spray afterwards. Tried 12btdc. Still stalling. Then I took off the carburetor. There was a tiny exhaust leak from under the EGR plate. Manifested itself as waterdrops after cold start. Split the carburetor. Had one set of plastic gliders/ sealing for the primary throtlle axle. A pain to get them on the axle. No room for my fingers. Cleaned the axle for the secondary. Oiled and back in. When I tried to fasten the throttle blades a screw head went off. Very easily too. Drilled out the holes for 6mm screws. Does look bad. I know. Adjusted blades to that tiny little slot opening. First start Eddie wouldnt idle at all. Had to open the idle mixture screws more than a turn up. Got -16hg. Now he is hesitating when about only rolling at a little more than idle. A little back firing to. When I give throttle he is good I seriously consider buying a new Holley 4160, 0-80452. As far as I understand it will fit right in ? Or do you have other alternatives ?

Greetings from Norway.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hi all. Thanks for your feedback. I cleaned the accelerator pump nozzle. It had restrictions. Much better spray afterwards. Tried 12btdc. Still stalling. Then I took off the carburetor. There was a tiny exhaust leak from under the EGR plate. Manifested itself as waterdrops after cold start. Split the carburetor. Had one set of plastic gliders/ sealing for the primary throtlle axle. A pain to get them on the axle. No room for my fingers. Cleaned the axle for the secondary. Oiled and back in. When I tried to fasten the throttle blades a screw head went off. Very easily too. Drilled out the holes for 6mm screws. Does look bad. I know. Adjusted blades to that tiny little slot opening. First start Eddie wouldnt idle at all. Had to open the idle mixture screws more than a turn up. Got -16hg. Now he is hesitating when about only rolling at a little more than idle. A little back firing to. When I give throttle he is good I seriously consider buying a new Holley 4160, 0-80452. As far as I understand it will fit right in ? Or do you have other alternatives ?

Greetings from Norway.

If the carb is spitting back and the engine power is down check for a slack cam chain.

I have used the Holley 0-80457-S in place of the 4180.

I am not sure what the difference is to the ...452

Perhaps that model has the kickdown linkage for your automatic transmission?

 

[grumpin]

If the carb is spitting back and the engine power is down check for a slack cam chain.

I have used the Holley 0-80457-S in place of the 4180.

I am not sure what the difference is to the ...452

Perhaps that model has the kickdown linkage for your automatic transmission?

I used the same carburetor Jim mentioned. It hooked right up to my linkage, I have an automatic transmission.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/carburetors/street/parts/0-80457S