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Fixing Eddie


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The Bosch insignia is right below the 192 of the model number 1928 404 687

It's a graphic of an armature, I believe.

Hi Jim.

You are right about the symbol. I thought so myself right after I had posted. But when you look at the sensor itself there is no markings on it. IMG_20220322_175206_0.jpg.b0af172a9690f96a4ad68e98251e79e5.jpg

The long number on the plug does not reference to the sensor. I think its the plug. You will find the same number on plugs on different sensors from different vendors. I am 100% sure the enclosed sensor is not a Bosch sensor.

Thats weird when AEM insists that you ONLY use the original Bosch sensor 0258017025. This sensor is 2,5 times more expensive then the copy cats. AEM sells the original Bosch as a replacement sensor, $ 110.00. They are $ 160.00 in Norway. I can by a copy where the Bosch model number is etched on. And no other info on it. Price $ 66.00. If you look at Bosch sensors you will find them etched with model numbers, Germany, Bosch symbol and more.

Wonder what AEM has to say ? Maybe I send them an email.

The seller does not want to take any responsebility for my sensors failure. He says that the sensor ( may ) have been damaged because of the very rich mixture ( AFR reading 10 ). It lasted 1 - 2 minutes till the choke opened up. At idle the gauge read 12,5.

Besides I dont know for sure that the sensor is broken. It is heating up when I turn the ignition on. Is there a way to test them ? Enough for now.

Stein.

Β 

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Hi Jim.

You are right about the symbol. I thought so myself right after I had posted. But when you look at the sensor itself there is no markings on it.

The long number on the plug does not reference to the sensor. I think its the plug. You will find the same number on plugs on different sensors from different vendors. I am 100% sure the enclosed sensor is not a Bosch sensor.

Thats weird when AEM insists that you ONLY use the original Bosch sensor 0258017025. This sensor is 2,5 times more expensive then the copy cats. AEM sells the original Bosch as a replacement sensor, $ 110.00. They are $ 160.00 in Norway. I can by a copy where the Bosch model number is etched on. And no other info on it. Price $ 66.00. If you look at Bosch sensors you will find them etched with model numbers, Germany, Bosch symbol and more.

Wonder what AEM has to say ? Maybe I send them an email.

The seller does not want to take any responsebility for my sensors failure. He says that the sensor ( may ) have been damaged because of the very rich mixture ( AFR reading 10 ). It lasted 1 - 2 minutes till the choke opened up. At idle the gauge read 12,5.

Besides I dont know for sure that the sensor is broken. It is heating up when I turn the ignition on. Is there a way to test them ? Enough for now.

Stein.

From the reviews on Amazon, many people have the same issue with AEM and the sensor not being labeled Bosch...

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Hi Jim.

You are right about the symbol. I thought so myself right after I had posted. But when you look at the sensor itself there is no markings on it.

The long number on the plug does not reference to the sensor. I think its the plug. You will find the same number on plugs on different sensors from different vendors. I am 100% sure the enclosed sensor is not a Bosch sensor.

Thats weird when AEM insists that you ONLY use the original Bosch sensor 0258017025. This sensor is 2,5 times more expensive then the copy cats. AEM sells the original Bosch as a replacement sensor, $ 110.00. They are $ 160.00 in Norway. I can by a copy where the Bosch model number is etched on. And no other info on it. Price $ 66.00. If you look at Bosch sensors you will find them etched with model numbers, Germany, Bosch symbol and more.

Wonder what AEM has to say ? Maybe I send them an email.

The seller does not want to take any responsebility for my sensors failure. He says that the sensor ( may ) have been damaged because of the very rich mixture ( AFR reading 10 ). It lasted 1 - 2 minutes till the choke opened up. At idle the gauge read 12,5.

Besides I dont know for sure that the sensor is broken. It is heating up when I turn the ignition on. Is there a way to test them ? Enough for now.

Stein.

It's really unfortunate, the amount of counterfeit auto parts circulating today. :nabble_smiley_uh:

I would certainly provide feedback to the manufacturer.

They may do nothing... They might reprimand the seller... At the very least they will have a data point that their product is being bundled with fake goods. (If the AFR itself is actually genuine!)

Reporting to Amazon isn't a bad idea either.

Here in the US they have been forced to address the issue of fake products sold through their portal.

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It's really unfortunate, the amount of counterfeit auto parts circulating today. :nabble_smiley_uh:

I would certainly provide feedback to the manufacturer.

They may do nothing... They might reprimand the seller... At the very least they will have a data point that their product is being bundled with fake goods. (If the AFR itself is actually genuine!)

Reporting to Amazon isn't a bad idea either.

Here in the US they have been forced to address the issue of fake products sold through their portal.

Hi.

I have just sent a mail to AEM about this. So lets see if I get an answer.

Stein.

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The seller does not want to take any responsebility for my sensors failure. He says that the sensor ( may ) have been damaged because of the very rich mixture ( AFR reading 10 ). It lasted 1 - 2 minutes till the choke opened up. At idle the gauge read 12,5.

Besides I dont know for sure that the sensor is broken. It is heating up when I turn the ignition on. Is there a way to test them ? Enough for now.

Stein.

Mine always reads 10 / rich till the choke pulls off and I know at 1 time it was reading that most of my 45 min. drive to work. It was a 28* morning so the choke did not pull off like I thought it would.

I have since adjusted the choke and made a change to the hot air tube to get hotter and that looks like it worked to get the choke to open sooner.

I wish I know how to test the 02 as I have 2 old ones from my 02 Dodge that I would like to test and maybe put to use some how :nabble_anim_confused:

I just did not find anything on the web about any 02 and why I bought the AFR gauge I did.

Sorry

Dave ----

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The seller does not want to take any responsebility for my sensors failure. He says that the sensor ( may ) have been damaged because of the very rich mixture ( AFR reading 10 ). It lasted 1 - 2 minutes till the choke opened up. At idle the gauge read 12,5.

Besides I dont know for sure that the sensor is broken. It is heating up when I turn the ignition on. Is there a way to test them ? Enough for now.

Stein.

Mine always reads 10 / rich till the choke pulls off and I know at 1 time it was reading that most of my 45 min. drive to work. It was a 28* morning so the choke did not pull off like I thought it would.

I have since adjusted the choke and made a change to the hot air tube to get hotter and that looks like it worked to get the choke to open sooner.

I wish I know how to test the 02 as I have 2 old ones from my 02 Dodge that I would like to test and maybe put to use some how :nabble_anim_confused:

I just did not find anything on the web about any 02 and why I bought the AFR gauge I did.

Sorry

Dave ----

Hi.

Still having problems with my AEM. AEM tells me to clean the sensor. Could be clogged inside the tip. Which I did.IMG_20220326_105513_9.jpg.6976f8ceae94181fdaaed582287a259e.jpg Got some soot out. But it did not correct the fault. They also tell me that the sensor is a Bosch sensor. But the markings have been removed by their suppliers. Cant sell it as a Bosch unit due to legalities regarding permissions. And it surely looks like the sensors body has been polished. So I may just accept that. But without any markings how can you know what you have bought ? The one they sell as a replacement is the original Bosch unit with a much longer and different cable. There are some videos on Youtube that shows you how to test them. The heating element works. The sensor heats up when I turn the ignition on. With my Fluke the resistance measured 3 Ohm. I have also learned that these sensor produce electrisity ( the signal to the gauge ) depending on the amount of oxygen hitting the sensor element. Heating up the tip with a torch flame I got a max reading of 0,6V. But a flame torch also burns away most of the oxygen. AEM writes sensor signals from 0 -5V. Highest V is highest AFR. I am confused. I have ordered a new Bosch sensor. My plan is to attach it to the gauge and do a wet rag test. Thats a test outside of the exhaust pipe. Then if the gauge does not work I will send it back to the seller and ask for a replacement / refund. IMG_20220326_105444_2.jpg.1887db898e20878e3fa400498a47ca85.jpg Next week mr. Winter may come back to visit us :nabble_smiley_unhappy:

Stein.

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Hi.

Still having problems with my AEM. AEM tells me to clean the sensor. Could be clogged inside the tip. Which I did. Got some soot out. But it did not correct the fault. They also tell me that the sensor is a Bosch sensor. But the markings have been removed by their suppliers. Cant sell it as a Bosch unit due to legalities regarding permissions. And it surely looks like the sensors body has been polished. So I may just accept that. But without any markings how can you know what you have bought ? The one they sell as a replacement is the original Bosch unit with a much longer and different cable. There are some videos on Youtube that shows you how to test them. The heating element works. The sensor heats up when I turn the ignition on. With my Fluke the resistance measured 3 Ohm. I have also learned that these sensor produce electrisity ( the signal to the gauge ) depending on the amount of oxygen hitting the sensor element. Heating up the tip with a torch flame I got a max reading of 0,6V. But a flame torch also burns away most of the oxygen. AEM writes sensor signals from 0 -5V. Highest V is highest AFR. I am confused. I have ordered a new Bosch sensor. My plan is to attach it to the gauge and do a wet rag test. Thats a test outside of the exhaust pipe. Then if the gauge does not work I will send it back to the seller and ask for a replacement / refund. Next week mr. Winter may come back to visit us :nabble_smiley_unhappy:

Stein.

I checked my AES AFR sensor. I ordered it directly from AES. There are no markings on the sensor at all.

I hope you get it working. I will let you know how my install goes!

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I checked my AES AFR sensor. I ordered it directly from AES. There are no markings on the sensor at all.

I hope you get it working. I will let you know how my install goes!

Hi. Good luck with your AES ( AEM?). I read about your Blue Top install. So I got inspired to begin on mine.IMG_20220330_175451_3.thumb.jpg.718ffc8f97d81792293d42f22def9c39.jpg It is pretty straight forward to disconnect the various parts. The steering joint needed a few whacks with a hammer around the tip on the pitman arm, a crowbar and a knock on its top.IMG_20220331_181933_3.jpg.4c2614462ef09edff6d4731d267d5a85.jpg Then it came loose. I got the piping on top of steering gear off with regular wrenches.IMG_20220331_190815_5.thumb.jpg.d99e31071565970b321859d9cc1af6a8.jpg Removed the oil cooler line and I think I will replace itIMG_20220401_184555_4.thumb.jpg.a269bdd46f1ee0fb6ae4e9003d0a800c.jpg They live in a pretty harsh environment and are 36 years old. Getting the nut off the pitman arm was no match for my impact wrench. But my little puller was out of its league 16488415898092838460955089188328.thumb.jpg.bed3517600741d40833c4b816d69a868.jpgI think I find a better one at work. Today it did not snow. Even the sun was to be seenπŸ˜€. Top day temp was 5C. Nice beer temp.

Greetings Stein

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Hi. Good luck with your AES ( AEM?). I read about your Blue Top install. So I got inspired to begin on mine. It is pretty straight forward to disconnect the various parts. The steering joint needed a few whacks with a hammer around the tip on the pitman arm, a crowbar and a knock on its top. Then it came loose. I got the piping on top of steering gear off with regular wrenches. Removed the oil cooler line and I think I will replace it They live in a pretty harsh environment and are 36 years old. Getting the nut off the pitman arm was no match for my impact wrench. But my little puller was out of its league I think I find a better one at work. Today it did not snow. Even the sun was to be seenπŸ˜€. Top day temp was 5C. Nice beer temp.

Greetings Stein

Wow! 5C = 41F. Nice day, especially that far north. It is 63F = 17C here.

The Blue Top looks great. Gotta do that for Big Blue some day. But to remove the Pitman arm did you try banging the side of the arm with the puller on it?

And I agree, the cooler lives in a harsh environment and yours looks like it has seen better days. Replacing it looks like a good plan. :nabble_smiley_good:

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