thelastkeg Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Hello, I’ve been piddling with my recently acquired 86 F-150. The freeze plug behind the firewall was leaking, so I replaced it and the others. I ended up replacing the flywheel and clutch while it all was out since they looked terrible, and I’ve just now got it all back together. I did upgrade to an 11” clutch. The clutch engages/disengages very close to the floor. I’ve bled the system a lot, with no change. I’ve looked at the linkage diagrams but I don’t understand how to adjust the pushrod, or if even that is what I should do. Is this normal? It wasn’t engaging this close before I did anything. Thanks for any help and advice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Alan, There is an adjustable push rod available, but it is tricky to remove from the master. Usually you just need to drive it and it will come back up as the bubbles jar loose. Gary and others will attest to that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelastkeg Posted December 22, 2020 Author Share Posted December 22, 2020 Alan, There is an adjustable push rod available, but it is tricky to remove from the master. Usually you just need to drive it and it will come back up as the bubbles jar loose. Gary and others will attest to that. Thanks. Other than having to unbolt the slave cylinder from the bell housing, I didn’t even mess with the master cylinder or slave cylinder. I had to push the rod back into the slave cylinder to get it all back on the bell housing, which did force some fluid out of the master cylinder. Maybe air got into it then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted December 22, 2020 Share Posted December 22, 2020 Thanks. Other than having to unbolt the slave cylinder from the bell housing, I didn’t even mess with the master cylinder or slave cylinder. I had to push the rod back into the slave cylinder to get it all back on the bell housing, which did force some fluid out of the master cylinder. Maybe air got into it then. Yes, I had a similar experience when I removed the slave cylinder. And, as Jim said, I bled it but I had very little pedal. But enough that I could drive it and that worked the bubbles out. However, Bill/85lebaront2 had another recommendation - reverse bleed the system. Take a piece of hose from the left front brake caliper's bleed screw to the slave cylinder's bleed screw. Open the brake's bleed screw and then the clutch bleed screw and stand on the brake to force brake fluid into the clutch system. But don't let the brake system go dry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted December 23, 2020 Share Posted December 23, 2020 Thanks. Other than having to unbolt the slave cylinder from the bell housing, I didn’t even mess with the master cylinder or slave cylinder. I had to push the rod back into the slave cylinder to get it all back on the bell housing, which did force some fluid out of the master cylinder. Maybe air got into it then. It really shouldn't need bleeding if you didn't open the system. But if the slave piston pushed out while it was free of the throwout arm, then air may have gotten in. This is why I always push the fork forward and 'unlatch' the plastic retainer strap rather than stepping on the clutch and snapping it loose. Then when I have to do clutch service or..? I'm able to secure the piston/rod to the slave and not have to fight it back into place against the spring inside the slave. (I know exactly what you've been through) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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