kramttocs Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 Scott, I think I had the rear in the air so the trans oil would have been to the front of the trans. I think there was some but I don't remember it being that bad. Not like you will loose it all but there was some in the housing. I also want to say on the T18 when I found the drive gear bad I had just got the truck on the road so it was topped up. Want to say it was the same with the NP435, just got it on the road and topped up. IIRC the speedo was off and I found the T18 drive gear would work so I did a drive gear swap between the 2 transmissions. Have a pan handy just in case LOL Dave ---- Thanks Dave! Sorry for not replying sooner. I should really change the title of this "project" to Lipstick on a Pig... As I mentioned previously the next thing for Chanute was the GVOD. Had all the parts ready to go, called the driveshaft shop, and was told a day turnaround. So I was figuring 2 days tops. Well that was two weeks ago and Chanute still can't move on its own. Because the gvod came out of a 4wd T18/19 I had in my head that I just needed to find a T19 2wd adapter. After a couple months of looking, found one on ebay and happily bought it. Since I had the gvod cleaned and ready to go, I removed the driveshafts and kicked off the 2 day downtime. Looked at the tail extension and immediately remembered that this truck has the NP435 (added to sig so I'll never forget) The fallacy of sunk costs means don't give up, right? Ordered a NP435 adapter. More T19 and NP435 adapters: Note that they both say T19 (???): Drained, inspected and cleaned off the magnet in the transmission then mounted the gvod Hoping to get the Amsoil gear oil put in it this evening. While I was waiting for the new adapter I did some other tasks like taking the carb from Camano, changing out the valve covers for the M/T ones, ditching some unnecessary A/C bracketry, installing some garage door weatherstripping for the hood seal, replacing the open air cleaner with a factory one w/duct and installing an ssVEC relay box for the electric choke and headlight mod. I measured the driveshaft and I am just not sure if I can keep a two piece or need to go to a single. Rather than taking the risk and having to pay for another mistake I am going to just trailer the truck to the driveshaft shop. That means I need to finish the wiring on the trailer that I started awhile back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 13, 2021 Share Posted January 13, 2021 Thanks Dave! Sorry for not replying sooner. I should really change the title of this "project" to Lipstick on a Pig... As I mentioned previously the next thing for Chanute was the GVOD. Had all the parts ready to go, called the driveshaft shop, and was told a day turnaround. So I was figuring 2 days tops. Well that was two weeks ago and Chanute still can't move on its own. Because the gvod came out of a 4wd T18/19 I had in my head that I just needed to find a T19 2wd adapter. After a couple months of looking, found one on ebay and happily bought it. Since I had the gvod cleaned and ready to go, I removed the driveshafts and kicked off the 2 day downtime. Looked at the tail extension and immediately remembered that this truck has the NP435 (added to sig so I'll never forget) The fallacy of sunk costs means don't give up, right? Ordered a NP435 adapter. More T19 and NP435 adapters: Note that they both say T19 (???): Drained, inspected and cleaned off the magnet in the transmission then mounted the gvod Hoping to get the Amsoil gear oil put in it this evening. While I was waiting for the new adapter I did some other tasks like taking the carb from Camano, changing out the valve covers for the M/T ones, ditching some unnecessary A/C bracketry, installing some garage door weatherstripping for the hood seal, replacing the open air cleaner with a factory one w/duct and installing an ssVEC relay box for the electric choke and headlight mod. I measured the driveshaft and I am just not sure if I can keep a two piece or need to go to a single. Rather than taking the risk and having to pay for another mistake I am going to just trailer the truck to the driveshaft shop. That means I need to finish the wiring on the trailer that I started awhile back I think I'd just drive the truck in Front wheel drive to the shop.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 13, 2021 Author Share Posted January 13, 2021 I think I'd just drive the truck in Front wheel drive to the shop.... If it was downhill both ways I would Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Thanks Dave! Sorry for not replying sooner. I should really change the title of this "project" to Lipstick on a Pig... As I mentioned previously the next thing for Chanute was the GVOD. Had all the parts ready to go, called the driveshaft shop, and was told a day turnaround. So I was figuring 2 days tops. Well that was two weeks ago and Chanute still can't move on its own. Because the gvod came out of a 4wd T18/19 I had in my head that I just needed to find a T19 2wd adapter. After a couple months of looking, found one on ebay and happily bought it. Since I had the gvod cleaned and ready to go, I removed the driveshafts and kicked off the 2 day downtime. Looked at the tail extension and immediately remembered that this truck has the NP435 (added to sig so I'll never forget) The fallacy of sunk costs means don't give up, right? Ordered a NP435 adapter. More T19 and NP435 adapters: Note that they both say T19 (???): Drained, inspected and cleaned off the magnet in the transmission then mounted the gvod Hoping to get the Amsoil gear oil put in it this evening. While I was waiting for the new adapter I did some other tasks like taking the carb from Camano, changing out the valve covers for the M/T ones, ditching some unnecessary A/C bracketry, installing some garage door weatherstripping for the hood seal, replacing the open air cleaner with a factory one w/duct and installing an ssVEC relay box for the electric choke and headlight mod. I measured the driveshaft and I am just not sure if I can keep a two piece or need to go to a single. Rather than taking the risk and having to pay for another mistake I am going to just trailer the truck to the driveshaft shop. That means I need to finish the wiring on the trailer that I started awhile back You are really getting a lot done, Scott! Well done! And I agree, you can't let getting the wrong part stop you now. Glad you got the right part. I also agree about taking it to the driveshaft shop. As for downhill, that's 'cause you'll lose lube, right? So, get that trailer done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 If it was downhill both ways I would Well, it's not a problem getting home! I think I'm just used to having 4wd and a piece of 1 1/4" schedule 40 with a cap glued on. But it's the perfect excuse to fix up your trailer. Gary knows about this from when he and his brother went to get Big Blue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Well, it's not a problem getting home! I think I'm just used to having 4wd and a piece of 1 1/4" schedule 40 with a cap glued on. But it's the perfect excuse to fix up your trailer. Gary knows about this from when he and his brother went to get Big Blue. Yes, but in that case it was Brandon/Bruno2's trailer. Which is a big reason I bought my own. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 As for downhill, that's 'cause you'll lose lube, right? No, the 2wd part Would be nice driving it since the rear tires are just a couple inches too wide so have to be removed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 As for downhill, that's 'cause you'll lose lube, right? No, the 2wd part Would be nice driving it since the rear tires are just a couple inches too wide so have to be removed. Gear Vendors has a manual tranny brain box that I pulled from the donor but I am going to omit it and wire it myself. Am I overlooking anything here? Switch A is the NC speed control clutch switch that is open when the clutch is depressed. Truck doesn't have cruise so repurposing this switch. Switch B is a NO momentary switch that mounts to the shifter. Operation: 1.Shift into 4th and accelerate. 2.Once ready to shift into OD, press the clutch (opens Switch A), and pull up on Switch B (closes). 3.OD will engage 4.Release clutch (closes Switch A) and then release Switch B (opens) 5.OD remains engaged 6.When time to decelerate, press clutch (opens Switch A) 7.OD disengages Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 14, 2021 Share Posted January 14, 2021 Gear Vendors has a manual tranny brain box that I pulled from the donor but I am going to omit it and wire it myself. Am I overlooking anything here? Switch A is the NC speed control clutch switch that is open when the clutch is depressed. Truck doesn't have cruise so repurposing this switch. Switch B is a NO momentary switch that mounts to the shifter. Operation: 1.Shift into 4th and accelerate. 2.Once ready to shift into OD, press the clutch (opens Switch A), and pull up on Switch B (closes). 3.OD will engage 4.Release clutch (closes Switch A) and then release Switch B (opens) 5.OD remains engaged 6.When time to decelerate, press clutch (opens Switch A) 7.OD disengages That should work nicely. I was initially concerned about pushing the clutch in as in Step 2, but then I realized that you need to do that to allow the OD to come in. But do you have a momentary switch that you pull up to close? That seems odd, but it'll work. I'm just used to pushing a momentary to close it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kramttocs Posted January 14, 2021 Author Share Posted January 14, 2021 That should work nicely. I was initially concerned about pushing the clutch in as in Step 2, but then I realized that you need to do that to allow the OD to come in. But do you have a momentary switch that you pull up to close? That seems odd, but it'll work. I'm just used to pushing a momentary to close it. Thanks a lot for looking it over Gary. I guess technically you don't have to depress the clutch when engaging the OD but some have said it slams pretty hard in a manual. With the auto brain box in Camano the 'engaged' light comes on a split second before the OD engages so you can let off the gas a bit to ease the shift. Interested in how Jonathan uses his behind a stick so will tag him. On the switch I have a Cole Hersee M486 Pull-Type Momentary Switch. You're right that there don't seem to be many options so was glad to find a Cole Hersee one. Never found the specs on it but assuming it can handle 3A. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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