ArdWrknTrk Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 What about applying a bit of panel adhesive around the flange before inserting it? I'm just going to avoid using them. When the metal is torn all around, a tee-nut welded in upside down makes a solid connection. If the screw is seized into a riv-nut it is just as likely to tear out as spin. I've got VERY little patience for playing around with that sort of thing. Just like when I told Gary I would simply Velcro that tray to the back of the cab. If I want bracket making and workarounds ill go rewatch Project Binky on YouTube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 22, 2020 Author Share Posted November 22, 2020 I'm just going to avoid using them. When the metal is torn all around, a tee-nut welded in upside down makes a solid connection. If the screw is seized into a riv-nut it is just as likely to tear out as spin. I've got VERY little patience for playing around with that sort of thing. Just like when I told Gary I would simply Velcro that tray to the back of the cab. If I want bracket making and workarounds ill go rewatch Project Binky on YouTube. Gary has a layer of sound deadening and foam across the back wall, so Velcro isn't going to work. And I don't want to pull the foam. So I'm looking at alternatives. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 Gary has a layer of sound deadening and foam across the back wall, so Velcro isn't going to work. And I don't want to pull the foam. So I'm looking at alternatives. I know you do. And I know you are.... I'm sure you'll come up with a good solution. 😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted November 22, 2020 Share Posted November 22, 2020 Bill - Pull straps/handles is one reason I got an assortment as I hope to put handles on the A-pillar and will want to bury nutserts there. I thought about going metric, but most of my "stock" of fasteners is SAE so went that way. I think I have some flanged button-head 1/4-20 screws that are long enough to do this job, and I know I have 1/4" fender washers to put under them. So that's the plan, Stan. How do you "set" your nutserts? There is a tool that looks like a pop rivet tool, only bigger that has mandrels for the nutserts. The mendrels are threaded 14-20LH on the tool end and whatever thread you are using on the insert end. There is a travel stop (adjustable) to get the exact compression without stripping or under crimping. I went with the metric as most of the body pieces on the konvertible are metric. Had a nice surprise the other day, was looking at the door strikers and trying to figure a way to repair them like you can do on a Ford. Found they are still available new, they were updated in 1998 for the minivans. If I could reach the inner ends, the updated ones had a 5/16 - or 8mm hex so they can be mostly tightened with the door shut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 24, 2020 Author Share Posted November 24, 2020 There is a tool that looks like a pop rivet tool, only bigger that has mandrels for the nutserts. The mendrels are threaded 14-20LH on the tool end and whatever thread you are using on the insert end. There is a travel stop (adjustable) to get the exact compression without stripping or under crimping. I went with the metric as most of the body pieces on the konvertible are metric. Had a nice surprise the other day, was looking at the door strikers and trying to figure a way to repair them like you can do on a Ford. Found they are still available new, they were updated in 1998 for the minivans. If I could reach the inner ends, the updated ones had a 5/16 - or 8mm hex so they can be mostly tightened with the door shut. The proper way to install a rivnut: Of course, this is after you spend an hour cutting the head off the bolt with a Dremel, one little bit at a time 'cause the thing that's being held in is plastic. And, because you can't get on it from above, only the side. Anyone want a 140-3=137 piece nutsert set? I WAS WRONG! Y'ALL WERE RIGHT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimsRebel Posted November 24, 2020 Share Posted November 24, 2020 The proper way to install a rivnut: Of course, this is after you spend an hour cutting the head off the bolt with a Dremel, one little bit at a time 'cause the thing that's being held in is plastic. And, because you can't get on it from above, only the side. Anyone want a 140-3=137 piece nutsert set? I WAS WRONG! Y'ALL WERE RIGHT. I am not sure if you can get to the back side, but here is another option. https://www.clickbond.com/ https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/clickbondstuds.php Just another old aircraft mechanic that really hates rivnuts. Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted November 24, 2020 Author Share Posted November 24, 2020 I am not sure if you can get to the back side, but here is another option. https://www.clickbond.com/ https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/clickbondstuds.php Just another old aircraft mechanic that really hates rivnuts. Jim Jim - I wish I could get to the back, but I can't easily. However, thinking about it, I could have reached in where the grommets are and reached in there to some extent. But I doubt I would have been able to reach the one I put in the center. Anyway, thanks for the suggestion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 Jim - I wish I could get to the back, but I can't easily. However, thinking about it, I could have reached in where the grommets are and reached in there to some extent. But I doubt I would have been able to reach the one I put in the center. Anyway, thanks for the suggestion. The mirrors I got from LMC used the bolt & nut to set them in the doors. I was able to use them on the lower bracket mounting bolts but not at the top. The tops had a backer plate that was tapped for the bolts but the PO's striped them out. I was able to get longer bolts with the right head and after starting the bolts was able to get lock nuts on them. That was a show with the glass installed and getting tools on the nuts Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 The mirrors I got from LMC used the bolt & nut to set them in the doors. I was able to use them on the lower bracket mounting bolts but not at the top. The tops had a backer plate that was tapped for the bolts but the PO's striped them out. I was able to get longer bolts with the right head and after starting the bolts was able to get lock nuts on them. That was a show with the glass installed and getting tools on the nuts Dave ---- Sometimes you just have to get creative with a torch and grinder to get the wrench to fit. I know I have a bunch of misshapen lumps in my 'special tools' drawer. (One good thing about Craftsman selling open stock at Lowe's) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 26, 2020 Share Posted November 26, 2020 Sometimes you just have to get creative with a torch and grinder to get the wrench to fit. Not after you just got through painting the truck after 4 years of rebuilding. Or was that on the wrench Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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