ArdWrknTrk Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 Now you are back to the question of what you want to do with the truck. If you want to do the Baja 500 you'll want the coil-sprung TTB's as they give the most compliant suspension and keep the tires planted. They keep the un-sprung weight down on each tire and are more supple. Lots of people still swear by them, although there are those that don't understand them that swear at them. But nobody swears by the leaf-sprung TTB's. You've also must remember that the 250-350 trucks have a thicker frame. And the 450's are thicker still.... A straight axle is easy to align and stays in alignment when loaded or unweighted. The TTB is only 1/2 unsprung weight. The other end is attached to the cross member. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted November 7, 2020 Share Posted November 7, 2020 You've also must remember that the 250-350 trucks have a thicker frame. And the 450's are thicker still.... A straight axle is easy to align and stays in alignment when loaded or unweighted. The TTB is only 1/2 unsprung weight. The other end is attached to the cross member. Untill Snow said something I was thinking 4x4 straight axle and coils like they did in the older 4x4's as I thought they road pretty good and with the axle "C" cups you could get different degree to get the specs back in. I like the straight axle as it is more robust for a 4x4 even for street use. I had 230+ miles on my K5 Blazer and other than a few tie rod ends I did nothing to it. My 02 Durango (IFS) with 240+ miles I have done ball joints, 1 hub bearing and Ujoint and I hate how mushy the ride is, like the shocks are always bad. Also the last time I had it on the rack with new tires I was told if it does not hold all the adjustment things would need to be replaced because of rust! You don't have that with a straight axle. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted November 7, 2020 Author Share Posted November 7, 2020 Untill Snow said something I was thinking 4x4 straight axle and coils like they did in the older 4x4's as I thought they road pretty good and with the axle "C" cups you could get different degree to get the specs back in. I like the straight axle as it is more robust for a 4x4 even for street use. I had 230+ miles on my K5 Blazer and other than a few tie rod ends I did nothing to it. My 02 Durango (IFS) with 240+ miles I have done ball joints, 1 hub bearing and Ujoint and I hate how mushy the ride is, like the shocks are always bad. Also the last time I had it on the rack with new tires I was told if it does not hold all the adjustment things would need to be replaced because of rust! You don't have that with a straight axle. Dave ---- I can’t help myself. I’m going to go take a look tomorrow. Other than exterior corrosion, what would you look for when visually inspecting a donor axle? https://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/pts/d/temple-1978-ford-150-4x4-swb/7227186936.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 I can’t help myself. I’m going to go take a look tomorrow. Other than exterior corrosion, what would you look for when visually inspecting a donor axle? https://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/pts/d/temple-1978-ford-150-4x4-swb/7227186936.html Pinion backlash and play at the hubs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowpony Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 I can’t help myself. I’m going to go take a look tomorrow. Other than exterior corrosion, what would you look for when visually inspecting a donor axle? https://atlanta.craigslist.org/wat/pts/d/temple-1978-ford-150-4x4-swb/7227186936.html I used the Dana44 for two reasons, first I had one, got a great deal on it and it has the same wheel bolt pattern. I had just bought a set of 33" Duratracs and they were not cheap. Found lots of Dana44 options from brakes, axles, and differentials and I wanted to do the Duff kit, and there 44 was path of least resistance. Bought most everything they had. 70/30 shocks, mounts, heim steering,springs,coil buckets,track bar,c bushings and the long arms. Added an Eaton elocker and never looked back! For my purposes this is great. I think the ride is better, but that just may be better spring rate? My tires rubbed the original TTB arms when the wheels turned right radius', and the Duff arms are made with a bend to allow tighter turning. Tires do not rub.I My two cents Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Littlebeefy Posted November 8, 2020 Author Share Posted November 8, 2020 I used the Dana44 for two reasons, first I had one, got a great deal on it and it has the same wheel bolt pattern. I had just bought a set of 33" Duratracs and they were not cheap. Found lots of Dana44 options from brakes, axles, and differentials and I wanted to do the Duff kit, and there 44 was path of least resistance. Bought most everything they had. 70/30 shocks, mounts, heim steering,springs,coil buckets,track bar,c bushings and the long arms. Added an Eaton elocker and never looked back! For my purposes this is great. I think the ride is better, but that just may be better spring rate? My tires rubbed the original TTB arms when the wheels turned right radius', and the Duff arms are made with a bend to allow tighter turning. Tires do not rub.I My two cents I think you talked me into it, Snow. The Duff kit is bolt on with no welding and minimal drilling and it sounds like everyone who uses it likes it. What gear ratio did you end up going with for the 33s? Also, what did you do about the rear end, leave it or upgrade to 9”? Since you’re doing it again, what did you learn the first time around that’s going to change what you do the second time? Any “if I had only done that the first time” recommendations for people undertaking a similar effort? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snowpony Posted November 8, 2020 Share Posted November 8, 2020 I think you talked me into it, Snow. The Duff kit is bolt on with no welding and minimal drilling and it sounds like everyone who uses it likes it. What gear ratio did you end up going with for the 33s? Also, what did you do about the rear end, leave it or upgrade to 9”? Since you’re doing it again, what did you learn the first time around that’s going to change what you do the second time? Any “if I had only done that the first time” recommendations for people undertaking a similar effort? Thanks! My truck already had a 9" . I still run the 3:50 gears, original tires were 31" tall. Not great out of the hole, but not horrible . Did have 35" in it and that was dumb. That really needed gears. My Mustang has 4:88 gears, and that's a hoot! Not highway friendly When I do it again, front suspension will be almost exactly the same, may consider the upper coil spring mount that Ford put on it. My current set-up has the Duff upper spring mounts. No issue with the Duffs, just curious how it will set. Rear axle on my current truck has blocks, my also try the shackle flip to also see what that looks like. The other truck also has 33" Duratracs on a set of 10" wide Jackman wagon wheels, also still running 3:50 gears 9" and Dana44 again too. Glad I sold you on the "Duff Stuff", wish they paid a referral fee! Ha Ha! Curt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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