Gary Lewis Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Hi everyone. Ive made a bit more progress. Ive finished (for now) working on wiring including rewiring my starter. I received my pushrods and I also finished roughing out the valve cover spacer. The spacer doesnt look like much but it was a suprising bit of work to cut it out with a jig saw. I will finish it with a diegrinder inside and out. There will probably be several hours worth of work in that. Im not really pleased with the mess of wires around the battery, starter solenoid and my two new relays. I dont believe any of it will be prone to ground out which is my first concern, but its a birds nest for sure. Ill have to think some on how to remidy this. I will remake my G3 harness soon, I may find an opportunity to incorporate a partial solution to this problem. The new starter trigger (10, red) is strapped down tight to the frame rails along with the starter ground and the O2 meter harness. I placed the batt-to-starter wire in its own dedicated loom and placed only enough tension on its zip ties to guide it down the frame. Im preoccupied with the idea of that large cable ground and causing terrible damage. I may revisit my strategy here as well, but it will ride for now I think. You are making good progress. How are you making your cables? I found that with the number of cables I needed the best way was to make them myself. So I bought a small hydraulic crimper and use very high quality terminals and adhesive-lined shrink tubing. It works out really well as I get the cables just the length I need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Hi everyone. Ive made a bit more progress. Ive finished (for now) working on wiring including rewiring my starter. I received my pushrods and I also finished roughing out the valve cover spacer. The spacer doesnt look like much but it was a suprising bit of work to cut it out with a jig saw. I will finish it with a diegrinder inside and out. There will probably be several hours worth of work in that. Im not really pleased with the mess of wires around the battery, starter solenoid and my two new relays. I dont believe any of it will be prone to ground out which is my first concern, but its a birds nest for sure. Ill have to think some on how to remidy this. I will remake my G3 harness soon, I may find an opportunity to incorporate a partial solution to this problem. The new starter trigger (10, red) is strapped down tight to the frame rails along with the starter ground and the O2 meter harness. I placed the batt-to-starter wire in its own dedicated loom and placed only enough tension on its zip ties to guide it down the frame. Im preoccupied with the idea of that large cable ground and causing terrible damage. I may revisit my strategy here as well, but it will ride for now I think. Love your new, high performance air filter! 😍❤️🌠🤯 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 Love your new, high performance air filter! 😍❤️🌠🤯 Thanks Gary! Im making my own cables as well. For the big size 2/4 stuff I am using adhesive lined heat shrink and one of the "hit it with a hammer" type crimper tools. For anything 10 and down Im using a standard hand crimper/stripper combo. I think Ill be able to produce what I need, itll be a matter of figuring out what that is. Im considering a 12+ bus bar. Ive stayed away from that in the past for fear of grounding risk though. Thanks Jim! I tell curious onlookers that the breather is how you can tell its a racing engine. LOL. Its made from a kn breather assembly, a factory oil cap, and a piece of hardware store rubber hose that happened to match the diameters up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 Thanks Gary! Im making my own cables as well. For the big size 2/4 stuff I am using adhesive lined heat shrink and one of the "hit it with a hammer" type crimper tools. For anything 10 and down Im using a standard hand crimper/stripper combo. I think Ill be able to produce what I need, itll be a matter of figuring out what that is. Im considering a 12+ bus bar. Ive stayed away from that in the past for fear of grounding risk though. Thanks Jim! I tell curious onlookers that the breather is how you can tell its a racing engine. LOL. Its made from a kn breather assembly, a factory oil cap, and a piece of hardware store rubber hose that happened to match the diameters up. Looks like Bounty to me? Maybe I'm not turning my head the right way??? 🤪 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted February 17 Author Share Posted February 17 Looks like Bounty to me? Maybe I'm not turning my head the right way??? 🤪 Ah yes, doody calls. I thought you meant the breather! I wouldn't want anything getting in there! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted February 18 Author Share Posted February 18 Ah yes, doody calls. I thought you meant the breather! I wouldn't want anything getting in there! Hi guys. Its running! With new manotons (10.260") and a home made 0.250" aluminum spacer. Its also now running with a new pmgr starter, the original battery, and a holley mighty mite fuel pump. Miraculously, the new valve cover spacer doesnt seem to leak. I was able to start it and get the base timing set to 14 degrees. There will be more tuning for idle and on road driving to follow. The tapping in the top end is gone now. When I finally got the idle steady I noticed a slight clattering noise, then smoke coming from the bottom of the bell housing near the starter. I shut it off immediately, I suspect the starter didnt disengage. A friend is coming over this evening, we will troubleshoot the starter and examine the ring gear. It seems to be one thing after another here, but I suspect Im getting close to a drivable vehicle again. Ill keep you all posted. On the spacer - I traced the outside of the valve cover first, and center punched the valve cover holes. Then I used the center punch marks to align a cork gasket on the aluminum. I did as much of the cutting as possible with a jig saw and a metal cutting blade but there were no less than 6-8 hours of work with a die grinder and bir bit to get it all right. My air compressor isnt nearly large enough to feed a die grinder continuously, someone with a much larger air compressor might have a faster go of it. Or a laser table for that matter. I stacked the valve cover, rtv, cork, rtv, aluminum, rtv, cork on the bench and then bolted it to the head to cure. I made sure that the bottom cork gasket (free floating with no guide from the valve cover lip) was aligned with the gasket in the valve cover all the way around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 Hi guys. Its running! With new manotons (10.260") and a home made 0.250" aluminum spacer. Its also now running with a new pmgr starter, the original battery, and a holley mighty mite fuel pump. Miraculously, the new valve cover spacer doesnt seem to leak. I was able to start it and get the base timing set to 14 degrees. There will be more tuning for idle and on road driving to follow. The tapping in the top end is gone now. When I finally got the idle steady I noticed a slight clattering noise, then smoke coming from the bottom of the bell housing near the starter. I shut it off immediately, I suspect the starter didnt disengage. A friend is coming over this evening, we will troubleshoot the starter and examine the ring gear. It seems to be one thing after another here, but I suspect Im getting close to a drivable vehicle again. Ill keep you all posted. On the spacer - I traced the outside of the valve cover first, and center punched the valve cover holes. Then I used the center punch marks to align a cork gasket on the aluminum. I did as much of the cutting as possible with a jig saw and a metal cutting blade but there were no less than 6-8 hours of work with a die grinder and bir bit to get it all right. My air compressor isnt nearly large enough to feed a die grinder continuously, someone with a much larger air compressor might have a faster go of it. Or a laser table for that matter. I stacked the valve cover, rtv, cork, rtv, aluminum, rtv, cork on the bench and then bolted it to the head to cure. I made sure that the bottom cork gasket (free floating with no guide from the valve cover lip) was aligned with the gasket in the valve cover all the way around. . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 Hi guys. Its running! With new manotons (10.260") and a home made 0.250" aluminum spacer. Its also now running with a new pmgr starter, the original battery, and a holley mighty mite fuel pump. Miraculously, the new valve cover spacer doesnt seem to leak. I was able to start it and get the base timing set to 14 degrees. There will be more tuning for idle and on road driving to follow. The tapping in the top end is gone now. When I finally got the idle steady I noticed a slight clattering noise, then smoke coming from the bottom of the bell housing near the starter. I shut it off immediately, I suspect the starter didnt disengage. A friend is coming over this evening, we will troubleshoot the starter and examine the ring gear. It seems to be one thing after another here, but I suspect Im getting close to a drivable vehicle again. Ill keep you all posted. On the spacer - I traced the outside of the valve cover first, and center punched the valve cover holes. Then I used the center punch marks to align a cork gasket on the aluminum. I did as much of the cutting as possible with a jig saw and a metal cutting blade but there were no less than 6-8 hours of work with a die grinder and bir bit to get it all right. My air compressor isnt nearly large enough to feed a die grinder continuously, someone with a much larger air compressor might have a faster go of it. Or a laser table for that matter. I stacked the valve cover, rtv, cork, rtv, aluminum, rtv, cork on the bench and then bolted it to the head to cure. I made sure that the bottom cork gasket (free floating with no guide from the valve cover lip) was aligned with the gasket in the valve cover all the way around. Well done! Bolting it to the head and letting it cure is a good idea. I will assure you that wet RTV will cause a gasket to find a way to slip out, one way or another. Congratulations!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 Well done! Bolting it to the head and letting it cure is a good idea. I will assure you that wet RTV will cause a gasket to find a way to slip out, one way or another. Congratulations!!! We used to use gorilla snot when we didn't want a gasket to budge.. But I think all* of the Three Bond case sealants (Yamabond. Kawibond, whatever) is probably better today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted February 18 Share Posted February 18 😳 Yeah, that's definitely their problem. I don't know much about timing the geared cam in a 300. I assume you can get offset keys, like my Ducati bevel's? "Straight up" or zero with a 460 is when the crank and cam keyways are pointing directly at one another. If you are thinking about a 2-Barrel consider a progressive Weber. Some hate them and some love them. 🤷♂️ I remember when the Ducati 906 Paso came out with one. They worked really well. There's a kid up the street with a Mazda B2000 (Ford Courier) and he has a Weber progressive downdraft on it. I thought of you and asked to take a picture. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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