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1984 Bronco build thread


StraightSix

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That vacuum motor was widely used for 300's, 351M's, and 400's so should be easy to find.

Thanks Gary. There are several on ebay for much more reasonable prices listed as "351M" or "400" vacuum motors.

As Jim pointed out, I dont really need one that is application specific in all likelihood. Just one that fits.

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Thanks Gary. There are several on ebay for much more reasonable prices listed as "351M" or "400" vacuum motors.

As Jim pointed out, I dont really need one that is application specific in all likelihood. Just one that fits.

From what I saw, a whole bunch of 351M and 400's used that motor. But I didn't check to see that all did.

If you have a specific application I can check that.

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From what I saw, a whole bunch of 351M and 400's used that motor. But I didn't check to see that all did.

If you have a specific application I can check that.

Hopefully I can work it out from here. Eventually, one will come up on ebay at a less ridiculous price or Ill make it out to the JY.

Thanks for taking a look through the master parts catalog. I should really consider trying to find one of those..

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Hopefully I can work it out from here. Eventually, one will come up on ebay at a less ridiculous price or Ill make it out to the JY.

Thanks for taking a look through the master parts catalog. I should really consider trying to find one of those..

I know of two vendors of the 1980 - 89 MPC - HIPO Parts and David Forel. The one sold by HIPO isn't OCR'd (optical character recognized" and you cannot search it for things. The one sold by Forel is OCR'd, but not well, meaning that less than half of the instances of things I've searched for have been found. (I've told him about that, but got absolutely no response.)

And yes, that does imply mine is OCR'd, very heavily. Contact me offline for how I did that. :nabble_smiley_wink:

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Hi Guys!

The 500 mile oil change is done, the oil looked and smelled fine. I have the coolant system drained, replaced the thermostat gasket last night. I think that was the source of my water leak, fingers crossed. the coolant also looks good, no crud or oil in it.

the tank has about a 50/50 blend of 89 and 87 in it now, and its running great other than what I think may be a bit of knock just as the throttle plates open. I have 16 degrees of base timing and 16 degrees of vacuum advance, Id think the engine would have ~ 32 degrees of timing more or less in that moment. Im going to dial the base timing back a little today and see if that resolves the problem. If not, Ill probably just run mid grade for a while and not worry about it. of course, Id prefer to burn 87 if I can. I dont have any knock at any other times, so it seems like my High DCR is going to work out.

I received my new vacuum motor yesterday, but unfortunately the metal arm that hooks through the damper door is too short on the new vacuum motor. on the bright side, I did get the old one out by drilling the rivet and I found a small (m4) bolt and lock nut that will serve to replace it. swapping in the new vacuum motor should only take 5 minutes next time.

I just hopped on ebay and bought the cheapest NOS vacuum motor that looked like mine. apparently, that strategy doesn't work. I looked around through the air cleaner documentation but didnt see anything specific enough to identify which vacuum motor I need for an 84' 300 snorkel. I guess I dont even really need one that is application specific, I just need one where the rod is the correct length. mine measures 1.328" from the bottom of the metal plate the rod attaches onto to the outside of the bend of the hook.

any advice to help me avoid playing the "buy, check, no refund" game on ebay would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Guys!

Here's one for $44. with $7 shipping.

It's not cheap, but it is NOS.

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What's wrong with looking like a 747 cockpit?

Simply 'cause, from time to time, 'should take a look at the road.

:nabble_smiley_wink:

I read higher in the thread, maybe already answered but I didn't see it.

So guys, I apologize if asking "again"...

Any advice how to verifîy that the flap is working properly when air temperature changes?

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I read higher in the thread, maybe already answered but I didn't see it.

So guys, I apologize if asking "again"...

Any advice how to verifîy that the flap is working properly when air temperature changes?

I played with the air cleaner I built for Dad's truck by using my Mityvac and heating the air with a heat gun. That let me watch what the flap did and I could see it worked well.

But other than something like that I don't know that I have a good suggestion. Unless you have a way to measure temps remotely. In that case you could put the sensor in the air cleaner and drive the truck, watching to see what happens.

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I played with the air cleaner I built for Dad's truck by using my Mityvac and heating the air with a heat gun. That let me watch what the flap did and I could see it worked well.

But other than something like that I don't know that I have a good suggestion. Unless you have a way to measure temps remotely. In that case you could put the sensor in the air cleaner and drive the truck, watching to see what happens.

:nabble_smiley_good:

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Guys!

The 500 mile oil change is done, the oil looked and smelled fine. I have the coolant system drained, replaced the thermostat gasket last night. I think that was the source of my water leak, fingers crossed. the coolant also looks good, no crud or oil in it.

the tank has about a 50/50 blend of 89 and 87 in it now, and its running great other than what I think may be a bit of knock just as the throttle plates open. I have 16 degrees of base timing and 16 degrees of vacuum advance, Id think the engine would have ~ 32 degrees of timing more or less in that moment. Im going to dial the base timing back a little today and see if that resolves the problem. If not, Ill probably just run mid grade for a while and not worry about it. of course, Id prefer to burn 87 if I can. I dont have any knock at any other times, so it seems like my High DCR is going to work out.

I received my new vacuum motor yesterday, but unfortunately the metal arm that hooks through the damper door is too short on the new vacuum motor. on the bright side, I did get the old one out by drilling the rivet and I found a small (m4) bolt and lock nut that will serve to replace it. swapping in the new vacuum motor should only take 5 minutes next time.

I just hopped on ebay and bought the cheapest NOS vacuum motor that looked like mine. apparently, that strategy doesn't work. I looked around through the air cleaner documentation but didnt see anything specific enough to identify which vacuum motor I need for an 84' 300 snorkel. I guess I dont even really need one that is application specific, I just need one where the rod is the correct length. mine measures 1.328" from the bottom of the metal plate the rod attaches onto to the outside of the bend of the hook.

any advice to help me avoid playing the "buy, check, no refund" game on ebay would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Guys!

Hi guys. I need to sit down and write out a full update for you guys. The news is all good, the bronco went on its first mountain fishing trip in over a year last weekend.

My type 9 mirrors are floppy. Is there a consensus on which replacement mirrors are the "good ones"? A particular brand or telling feature, perhaps?

Thanks!

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