1984 Bronco build thread

[ArdWrknTrk]

Gary - very interesting stuff. I have to be careful or Ill end up with a dizzying array of gauges and warning lights, it will look like a 747 cockpit. not only is it cool that he had that much info, but I like the idea of one gauge face reading multiple temps. Id love to have that kind of data, especially once I get the hot air system going.

What's wrong with looking like a 747 cockpit? I think Big Blue was already there, but the addition of EFI with an OBD-II port means I can have something plugged into that port and displaying a myriad of info.

In fact, there are lots of ways to use an Arduino to do that. Plus, I have a sketch to use an Arduino to run the fuel gauge, translating from the later style sending units. So why not also use that same device to check air temp, etc? I have a slot at the top of the radio bezel where a display could easily be installed.

I think I've joked that Big Blue's dash looked like mission control in Houston back when you were ordering all those specially labeled switches for the medium duty radio bezel.

[StraightSix]

I think I've joked that Big Blue's dash looked like mission control in Houston back when you were ordering all those specially labeled switches for the medium duty radio bezel.

Gary, I guess there is nothing wrong with the cab looking like mission control, especially if the cab IS mission control like Big Blue.

I was really into building and modifying guitars a few years ago. My first big project was a built from spare parts Telecaster with 3 pickup, one of which was a humbucker double coil with split-able coils. Oh man, the switchboard on that thing. Push pull pots, 3 way toggle switches all over, a 5 position blade switch that Im pretty sure I bent tabs on the bottom of to modify its operation.. there were dozens of combinations of coils.. and I used about 3. After a month I redid it to simplify down to the combinations I actually used. It was an important lesson for me about the balance between enough options/data/gauges/stuff, and too much.

This ofcourse is highly subjective. I sure would like to know what my oil, air, water, other air, etc temps are going down the road though.

[StraightSix]

Gary, I guess there is nothing wrong with the cab looking like mission control, especially if the cab IS mission control like Big Blue.

I was really into building and modifying guitars a few years ago. My first big project was a built from spare parts Telecaster with 3 pickup, one of which was a humbucker double coil with split-able coils. Oh man, the switchboard on that thing. Push pull pots, 3 way toggle switches all over, a 5 position blade switch that Im pretty sure I bent tabs on the bottom of to modify its operation.. there were dozens of combinations of coils.. and I used about 3. After a month I redid it to simplify down to the combinations I actually used. It was an important lesson for me about the balance between enough options/data/gauges/stuff, and too much.

This ofcourse is highly subjective. I sure would like to know what my oil, air, water, other air, etc temps are going down the road though.

Hi Guys!

The 500 mile oil change is done, the oil looked and smelled fine. I have the coolant system drained, replaced the thermostat gasket last night. I think that was the source of my water leak, fingers crossed. the coolant also looks good, no crud or oil in it.

the tank has about a 50/50 blend of 89 and 87 in it now, and its running great other than what I think may be a bit of knock just as the throttle plates open. I have 16 degrees of base timing and 16 degrees of vacuum advance, Id think the engine would have ~ 32 degrees of timing more or less in that moment. Im going to dial the base timing back a little today and see if that resolves the problem. If not, Ill probably just run mid grade for a while and not worry about it. of course, Id prefer to burn 87 if I can. I dont have any knock at any other times, so it seems like my High DCR is going to work out.

I received my new vacuum motor yesterday, but unfortunately the metal arm that hooks through the damper door is too short on the new vacuum motor. on the bright side, I did get the old one out by drilling the rivet and I found a small (m4) bolt and lock nut that will serve to replace it. swapping in the new vacuum motor should only take 5 minutes next time.

I just hopped on ebay and bought the cheapest NOS vacuum motor that looked like mine. apparently, that strategy doesn't work. I looked around through the air cleaner documentation but didnt see anything specific enough to identify which vacuum motor I need for an 84' 300 snorkel. I guess I dont even really need one that is application specific, I just need one where the rod is the correct length. mine measures 1.328" from the bottom of the metal plate the rod attaches onto to the outside of the bend of the hook.

any advice to help me avoid playing the "buy, check, no refund" game on ebay would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Guys!

[ArdWrknTrk]

Hi Guys!

The 500 mile oil change is done, the oil looked and smelled fine. I have the coolant system drained, replaced the thermostat gasket last night. I think that was the source of my water leak, fingers crossed. the coolant also looks good, no crud or oil in it.

the tank has about a 50/50 blend of 89 and 87 in it now, and its running great other than what I think may be a bit of knock just as the throttle plates open. I have 16 degrees of base timing and 16 degrees of vacuum advance, Id think the engine would have ~ 32 degrees of timing more or less in that moment. Im going to dial the base timing back a little today and see if that resolves the problem. If not, Ill probably just run mid grade for a while and not worry about it. of course, Id prefer to burn 87 if I can. I dont have any knock at any other times, so it seems like my High DCR is going to work out.

I received my new vacuum motor yesterday, but unfortunately the metal arm that hooks through the damper door is too short on the new vacuum motor. on the bright side, I did get the old one out by drilling the rivet and I found a small (m4) bolt and lock nut that will serve to replace it. swapping in the new vacuum motor should only take 5 minutes next time.

I just hopped on ebay and bought the cheapest NOS vacuum motor that looked like mine. apparently, that strategy doesn't work. I looked around through the air cleaner documentation but didnt see anything specific enough to identify which vacuum motor I need for an 84' 300 snorkel. I guess I dont even really need one that is application specific, I just need one where the rod is the correct length. mine measures 1.328" from the bottom of the metal plate the rod attaches onto to the outside of the bend of the hook.

any advice to help me avoid playing the "buy, check, no refund" game on ebay would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Guys!

Do the eBay sellers have the vacuum motors listed by Ford p/n, or Motorcraft #???

I know the one I bought off a Mustang parts site listed both.

Anyway, looking your application up through the diagram and MPC should net you specific numbers that fit your truck's housing.

[Gary Lewis]

Hi Guys!

The 500 mile oil change is done, the oil looked and smelled fine. I have the coolant system drained, replaced the thermostat gasket last night. I think that was the source of my water leak, fingers crossed. the coolant also looks good, no crud or oil in it.

the tank has about a 50/50 blend of 89 and 87 in it now, and its running great other than what I think may be a bit of knock just as the throttle plates open. I have 16 degrees of base timing and 16 degrees of vacuum advance, Id think the engine would have ~ 32 degrees of timing more or less in that moment. Im going to dial the base timing back a little today and see if that resolves the problem. If not, Ill probably just run mid grade for a while and not worry about it. of course, Id prefer to burn 87 if I can. I dont have any knock at any other times, so it seems like my High DCR is going to work out.

I received my new vacuum motor yesterday, but unfortunately the metal arm that hooks through the damper door is too short on the new vacuum motor. on the bright side, I did get the old one out by drilling the rivet and I found a small (m4) bolt and lock nut that will serve to replace it. swapping in the new vacuum motor should only take 5 minutes next time.

I just hopped on ebay and bought the cheapest NOS vacuum motor that looked like mine. apparently, that strategy doesn't work. I looked around through the air cleaner documentation but didnt see anything specific enough to identify which vacuum motor I need for an 84' 300 snorkel. I guess I dont even really need one that is application specific, I just need one where the rod is the correct length. mine measures 1.328" from the bottom of the metal plate the rod attaches onto to the outside of the bend of the hook.

any advice to help me avoid playing the "buy, check, no refund" game on ebay would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Guys!

Excellent progress!!!

The reason you can't find the info about the vacuum motor is that they are shown in the calibration codes. So you have to find the calibration code in order to get the right PN.

Looking at the applications list for 1984 Broncos for a 300 Six I see that there were codes 353, 355, 358, 361, and 364. But you have a manual transmission and I assume you don't have a CA-spec vehicle or the Hi-altitude specs. And that means I should go look at #353 or 355...

And it looks like D7TZ 9D612-B Motor assy, (carburetor air cleaner vacuum) *CX-120 Color code: brown

The CX-120 is the Motorcraft #.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Excellent progress!!!

The reason you can't find the info about the vacuum motor is that they are shown in the calibration codes. So you have to find the calibration code in order to get the right PN.

Looking at the applications list for 1984 Broncos for a 300 Six I see that there were codes 353, 355, 358, 361, and 364. But you have a manual transmission and I assume you don't have a CA-spec vehicle or the Hi-altitude specs. And that means I should go look at #353 or 355...

And it looks like D7TZ 9D612-B Motor assy, (carburetor air cleaner vacuum) *CX-120 Color code: brown

The CX-120 is the Motorcraft #.

Great information Gary!

Thank you for doing the legwork on this one.

[Gary Lewis]

Great information Gary!

Thank you for doing the legwork on this one.

Welcome. But, I just had a thought - that info is for an air cleaner that would have come with this truck. But maybe this air cleaner didn't come with this truck? If so then I need to go back and find the right PN for whatever truck the air cleaner came from.

[StraightSix]

Welcome. But, I just had a thought - that info is for an air cleaner that would have come with this truck. But maybe this air cleaner didn't come with this truck? If so then I need to go back and find the right PN for whatever truck the air cleaner came from.

Thanks Guys, all of that info is very helpful.

I know the engine had been remanufactured before because it had 4.030 pistons. All (or most) of the factory emissions equipment was in place as best as I could tell. I say all of that to say, I cant positively verify the exact origins of the air cleaner other than saying "Im pretty sure its a factory air cleaner, and it looks like the ones in the diagrams for the 82-86 300". It was dressed as an 84' block should have been, feedback carb, TFI ignition, ETC.

[Gary Lewis]

Thanks Guys, all of that info is very helpful.

I know the engine had been remanufactured before because it had 4.030 pistons. All (or most) of the factory emissions equipment was in place as best as I could tell. I say all of that to say, I cant positively verify the exact origins of the air cleaner other than saying "Im pretty sure its a factory air cleaner, and it looks like the ones in the diagrams for the 82-86 300". It was dressed as an 84' block should have been, feedback carb, TFI ignition, ETC.

That vacuum motor was widely used for 300's, 351M's, and 400's so should be easy to find.

[StraightSix]

Thanks Guys, all of that info is very helpful.

I know the engine had been remanufactured before because it had 4.030 pistons. All (or most) of the factory emissions equipment was in place as best as I could tell. I say all of that to say, I cant positively verify the exact origins of the air cleaner other than saying "Im pretty sure its a factory air cleaner, and it looks like the ones in the diagrams for the 82-86 300". It was dressed as an 84' block should have been, feedback carb, TFI ignition, ETC.

WOAH. There is one cx-120 vac motor on ebay but it would be ~$70 shipped. Looks like I have more looking around to do.