1984 Bronco build thread

[StraightSix]

Looks good! I think that is going to work well.

what are the odds that the lower portion is stainless? I know some stainless is magnetic. I ask because it didnt really rust much other than where the rat nests were. I dont want to paint the lower a dark color because I dont want it to pick up additional radiation heat from the exhaust and everything else. thoughts on getting it sanded clean and then leaving it? or maybe painting it a light gray?

I think Ill paint the lid black.

at this point, Im tempted to get the lid cleaned up and painted, get the vacuum modulator that lives in the lid tested and installed (because they're are hard to remove without breaking something) , then put it all together and go driving. I can get the lower and snorkel to a sandblaster but it may be a few weeks. it makes it hard to want to hand scrub it at home. doesnt seem like it matters if they are dirty from a functional standpoint, thats what the air filter is for.

[Gary Lewis]

what are the odds that the lower portion is stainless? I know some stainless is magnetic. I ask because it didnt really rust much other than where the rat nests were. I dont want to paint the lower a dark color because I dont want it to pick up additional radiation heat from the exhaust and everything else. thoughts on getting it sanded clean and then leaving it? or maybe painting it a light gray?

I think Ill paint the lid black.

at this point, Im tempted to get the lid cleaned up and painted, get the vacuum modulator that lives in the lid tested and installed (because they're are hard to remove without breaking something) , then put it all together and go driving. I can get the lower and snorkel to a sandblaster but it may be a few weeks. it makes it hard to want to hand scrub it at home. doesnt seem like it matters if they are dirty from a functional standpoint, thats what the air filter is for.

I doubt it is stainless. Maybe a light galvanizing?

Most of the steel ones were painted, and painted black. After all, it is a Ford and you can have it in any color you want - as long as it is black.

But I understand what you are saying about the temp. Perhaps a silver?

As for taking it for a ride, I'd do it. The air cleaner comes off easily to finish it up.

[StraightSix]

I doubt it is stainless. Maybe a light galvanizing?

Most of the steel ones were painted, and painted black. After all, it is a Ford and you can have it in any color you want - as long as it is black.

But I understand what you are saying about the temp. Perhaps a silver?

As for taking it for a ride, I'd do it. The air cleaner comes off easily to finish it up.

Here it is! Cold air only for now. No much of an effect on afr vs what Ive gotten used to, maybe a quarter point? Slightly larger difference at stationary idle.

[Gsmblue]

Here it is! Cold air only for now. No much of an effect on afr vs what Ive gotten used to, maybe a quarter point? Slightly larger difference at stationary idle.

That looks great! All the thought and work you put in shows.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Here it is! Cold air only for now. No much of an effect on afr vs what Ive gotten used to, maybe a quarter point? Slightly larger difference at stationary idle.

Looks great!

I understand that you don't have much need for it, but setting up some kind of warm air intake from the EFI manifolds would complete the setup.

Good job on a factory looking cold air implementation.

[Gary Lewis]

Here it is! Cold air only for now. No much of an effect on afr vs what Ive gotten used to, maybe a quarter point? Slightly larger difference at stationary idle.

Looks good.

Probably the reason there's not much of a change in the AFR is the fairly cool ambient temps. As it gets really hot outside it'll heat up under the hood even more. And while it'll be hard to say what it would have been, at least you'll know you are getting the coolest air possible.

I've done a lot of reading about air inlet temps, including this article called Project MPG. And while that is for an EFI system, which will compensate to some extent for the air temps, it still shows that a stable temp is advantageous.

But, there is also the power difference. I just discovered that the site I'd linked to on our page on air cleaners is no longer online, but I found it on the Wayback Machine. And here's an extract from it:

Air temperature directly effects power. Cool air is denser so a more air (oxygen) actually enters the engine. A 7.2 degree change in air temperature causes a 1% horsepower change. So if the air temperature under your hood is 180 degrees and the air temperature in front of your hood is 90 degrees then by ducting the cooler air to your air cleaner inlet you can give your engine a 90 degree incoming air temperature drop for a 12.5% increase in horsepower (90/7.2 = 12.5).

[back in 1974 on my 1969 429 Galaxie 500 I installed an electric temperature gauge and several sending units: one into the air cleaner in the air stream, one just sticking out into the air by the air cleaner inlet, and another near the front grill. I used a rotary switch to flip between the sending units. Under the hood temperature on a hot day with the AC running was almost always over 200 degrees and in traffic was usually over 240 degrees. The temperature of the air inside the air cleaner was the same. Grill air temperature was never over 105. I installed a 3 inch diameter air duct from the grill to the air cleaner snorkel and was able to drop the air temperature in the air cleaner to a maximum of 175 degrees at 25 MPH in traffic and down to 120 degrees on the highway. The result was a better acceleration. Note: this was in Omaha, NE and I had to disconnect the cold air duct in the winter.]

[grumpin]

Here it is! Cold air only for now. No much of an effect on afr vs what Ive gotten used to, maybe a quarter point? Slightly larger difference at stationary idle.

Nice!

[StraightSix]

Nice!

Thanks Guys! Im pleased with it for sure. I drove the Bronco to work today, about 27 miles from home. Its the farthest its been from my house since July! It feels pretty good. It ran slightly leaner on the way over here (45 F ambient this morning) but nothing severe. cruise was still floating barely richer than stoich. the air cleaner was cool to the touch when I checked it in the parking lot before coming in to the office.

Jim - hot air provisions are soon to follow. Id like my tune to be as stable and robust as possible, it seems like air temp is the biggest variable and certainly the biggest one I have any suggestion of control over. I need to find a working vacuum motor for the damper door, plumb in and test the bimetal sensor and (maybe?) the cold weather modulator. that should get it to the point it can suck in hot engine bay air atleast. coming up with a hot air stove will be the trick. Im imagining something like an old metal coffee tin going around one of the legs of the collector pipe, maybe with a small bracket welded onto the collector pipe to hold it in place? It seems like it should be easier to pull heat off the collector than to try to get it off the cast iron.

Gary - very interesting stuff. I have to be careful or Ill end up with a dizzying array of gauges and warning lights, it will look like a 747 cockpit. not only is it cool that he had that much info, but I like the idea of one gauge face reading multiple temps. Id love to have that kind of data, especially once I get the hot air system going.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks Guys! Im pleased with it for sure. I drove the Bronco to work today, about 27 miles from home. Its the farthest its been from my house since July! It feels pretty good. It ran slightly leaner on the way over here (45 F ambient this morning) but nothing severe. cruise was still floating barely richer than stoich. the air cleaner was cool to the touch when I checked it in the parking lot before coming in to the office.

Jim - hot air provisions are soon to follow. Id like my tune to be as stable and robust as possible, it seems like air temp is the biggest variable and certainly the biggest one I have any suggestion of control over. I need to find a working vacuum motor for the damper door, plumb in and test the bimetal sensor and (maybe?) the cold weather modulator. that should get it to the point it can suck in hot engine bay air atleast. coming up with a hot air stove will be the trick. Im imagining something like an old metal coffee tin going around one of the legs of the collector pipe, maybe with a small bracket welded onto the collector pipe to hold it in place? It seems like it should be easier to pull heat off the collector than to try to get it off the cast iron.

Gary - very interesting stuff. I have to be careful or Ill end up with a dizzying array of gauges and warning lights, it will look like a 747 cockpit. not only is it cool that he had that much info, but I like the idea of one gauge face reading multiple temps. Id love to have that kind of data, especially once I get the hot air system going.

There's nothing unique about the round vacuum motors. (control is from the thermal switches and delay valves)

I think I found my new one on a Mustang site. But if you have the Motorcraft number you might turn one up on eBay.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary - very interesting stuff. I have to be careful or Ill end up with a dizzying array of gauges and warning lights, it will look like a 747 cockpit. not only is it cool that he had that much info, but I like the idea of one gauge face reading multiple temps. Id love to have that kind of data, especially once I get the hot air system going.

What's wrong with looking like a 747 cockpit? I think Big Blue was already there, but the addition of EFI with an OBD-II port means I can have something plugged into that port and displaying a myriad of info.

In fact, there are lots of ways to use an Arduino to do that. Plus, I have a sketch to use an Arduino to run the fuel gauge, translating from the later style sending units. So why not also use that same device to check air temp, etc? I have a slot at the top of the radio bezel where a display could easily be installed.