mat in tn Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Really good indeed! Do you have an extension on the oil pressure sender? That looks to be a tee for a mechanical second gauge Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 That looks to be a tee for a mechanical second gauge Matt hit the nail on the head. That is a tee fitting and a bunch of hardware for a mechanical oil pressure gage. I wish I would have added one a long time ago, its fairly simple. Well, I got a lot of good stuff done today. I think I have a solution for my rocker arm adjustment nuts/valve cover clearance issue. My harmonic balancer tdc mark is spot on. I picked up new replacement hardware for some fasteners that went awol at the machine shop. Unfortunately, I also found a considerable road block. My cam timing is about 5 degrees advanced from target. Ill be pulling the balancer, timing cover, oil pan and cam tomorrow. Ill remove the 4 degree advance timing key from the cam and replace it with a factory style straight up timing key and that will put me within my measurements precision of the target cam timing. New oil pan and timing cover gaskets will be required. Pulling and installing the balancer should be easy, Ive done that a bunch. Ive never pulled a 300 crank gear or cam gear. Ill probably put the aluminum cam gear in the oven before reinstalling it but I suspect that wont get it all the way. There is still a fair chance the engine will go in this weekend as basically everything else is complete, but I certainly cant rush this job. We will see, Ill keep you all tuned in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 3, 2022 Share Posted March 3, 2022 Matt hit the nail on the head. That is a tee fitting and a bunch of hardware for a mechanical oil pressure gage. I wish I would have added one a long time ago, its fairly simple. Well, I got a lot of good stuff done today. I think I have a solution for my rocker arm adjustment nuts/valve cover clearance issue. My harmonic balancer tdc mark is spot on. I picked up new replacement hardware for some fasteners that went awol at the machine shop. Unfortunately, I also found a considerable road block. My cam timing is about 5 degrees advanced from target. Ill be pulling the balancer, timing cover, oil pan and cam tomorrow. Ill remove the 4 degree advance timing key from the cam and replace it with a factory style straight up timing key and that will put me within my measurements precision of the target cam timing. New oil pan and timing cover gaskets will be required. Pulling and installing the balancer should be easy, Ive done that a bunch. Ive never pulled a 300 crank gear or cam gear. Ill probably put the aluminum cam gear in the oven before reinstalling it but I suspect that wont get it all the way. There is still a fair chance the engine will go in this weekend as basically everything else is complete, but I certainly cant rush this job. We will see, Ill keep you all tuned in Glad you found the cam timing issue before installing the engine. So much easier to resolve it not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted March 3, 2022 Author Share Posted March 3, 2022 Glad you found the cam timing issue before installing the engine. So much easier to resolve it not. Agreed, this would have been a much bigger issue if I hadnt found it before putting the block in the truck. $150 in parts (some of which I may he able to return) and about a day and this can be resolved. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted March 5, 2022 Author Share Posted March 5, 2022 Agreed, this would have been a much bigger issue if I hadnt found it before putting the block in the truck. $150 in parts (some of which I may he able to return) and about a day and this can be resolved. Ok guys- today is the day. The block, transmission and maybe the transfer case are getting installed to the truck. My buddy is going to arrive at 830 to help out. I re-timed my my cam and resolved that issue. It was a bit nerve wracking but honestly wasn't very difficult. On disassembly to get the cam out, I noticed that no rtv was used on the junction of the pan, block and timing cover. I decided to drop the pan and see if any rtv was used at the junction of the rear main cap and the block. Nope! So I redid the oil pan gasket. It only took about an hour on the stand, would have been a day long + ordeal under the truck. Things to remember for engine/transmission install- the adapter plate, threadlocker on the flywheel bolts, clean flywheel-clutch mating surface, new throwout and pilot bearings. And thats all Ive got I guess. I dont know if we will get this completely wrapped up today but we plan to be at it again tomorrow. Ill keep you guys posted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 5, 2022 Share Posted March 5, 2022 Ok guys- today is the day. The block, transmission and maybe the transfer case are getting installed to the truck. My buddy is going to arrive at 830 to help out. I re-timed my my cam and resolved that issue. It was a bit nerve wracking but honestly wasn't very difficult. On disassembly to get the cam out, I noticed that no rtv was used on the junction of the pan, block and timing cover. I decided to drop the pan and see if any rtv was used at the junction of the rear main cap and the block. Nope! So I redid the oil pan gasket. It only took about an hour on the stand, would have been a day long + ordeal under the truck. Things to remember for engine/transmission install- the adapter plate, threadlocker on the flywheel bolts, clean flywheel-clutch mating surface, new throwout and pilot bearings. And thats all Ive got I guess. I dont know if we will get this completely wrapped up today but we plan to be at it again tomorrow. Ill keep you guys posted. Good luck!!! Hope everything goes really well. And glad you caught the things you did. Lack of RTV in those places would surely have caused a leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted March 7, 2022 Author Share Posted March 7, 2022 Good luck!!! Hope everything goes really well. And glad you caught the things you did. Lack of RTV in those places would surely have caused a leak. Hi Guys! The engine, transmission and transfer case went in without major trouble. since these photos were taken Ive also installed the intake and exhaust manifolds and I have the collector pipe hooked up. I still need to get the carb, choke, throttle, PS pump and accessory drive, the radiator, and a bunch of other stuff installed. my pushrods are supposed to arrive tomorrow or the day after, and as long as everything keeps going well I assume Ill probably run the cam in the day after the pushrods show up. the only real problem Ive run into getting the driveline installed is that the nuts/bolts for the upper leg of my transmission crossmember on the driver side are badly frozen. you know, the ones that a wrench will barely slip onto between the frame and the body, and the nut is next to fuel and brake lines? Ive been spraying with PB blaster and hoping they will loosen up. They probably need about 1/4" of travel to be seated, I can slip a finger between the nut and the frame. it occurred to me that I may should try to get the nuts off instead of tightening them, I have a tap and die for that thread pitch. the bolts are captive, but tapping the nuts may alleviate some trouble in the future. if it wasnt next to a wiring harness and fuel/brake lines Id consider putting some heat on it too. My slave cylinder seems to be toast, the clutch pedal produces no movement in the slave cylinder and it dripped two drops of brake fluid on me while I was tryign to figure out the issue. I should have a new one in hand by the end of the day, but Ill have to bleed it in which Ive never done before. Ive watched a few YouTube videos. I guess we will see how that goes. Ill keep you all posted! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 Hi Guys! The engine, transmission and transfer case went in without major trouble. since these photos were taken Ive also installed the intake and exhaust manifolds and I have the collector pipe hooked up. I still need to get the carb, choke, throttle, PS pump and accessory drive, the radiator, and a bunch of other stuff installed. my pushrods are supposed to arrive tomorrow or the day after, and as long as everything keeps going well I assume Ill probably run the cam in the day after the pushrods show up. the only real problem Ive run into getting the driveline installed is that the nuts/bolts for the upper leg of my transmission crossmember on the driver side are badly frozen. you know, the ones that a wrench will barely slip onto between the frame and the body, and the nut is next to fuel and brake lines? Ive been spraying with PB blaster and hoping they will loosen up. They probably need about 1/4" of travel to be seated, I can slip a finger between the nut and the frame. it occurred to me that I may should try to get the nuts off instead of tightening them, I have a tap and die for that thread pitch. the bolts are captive, but tapping the nuts may alleviate some trouble in the future. if it wasnt next to a wiring harness and fuel/brake lines Id consider putting some heat on it too. My slave cylinder seems to be toast, the clutch pedal produces no movement in the slave cylinder and it dripped two drops of brake fluid on me while I was tryign to figure out the issue. I should have a new one in hand by the end of the day, but Ill have to bleed it in which Ive never done before. Ive watched a few YouTube videos. I guess we will see how that goes. Ill keep you all posted! Looking good! That's a lot of good progress. On the crossmember bolts & nuts, I'd take the nuts off before you get things jammed and figure out what is going on. I think those are prevailing-torque nuts, meaning that they are deformed so they keep some tension on and won't loosen. If you run a tap through them that feature will probably be removed, so you might need Loctite or lock washers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted March 7, 2022 Share Posted March 7, 2022 Hi Guys! The engine, transmission and transfer case went in without major trouble. since these photos were taken Ive also installed the intake and exhaust manifolds and I have the collector pipe hooked up. I still need to get the carb, choke, throttle, PS pump and accessory drive, the radiator, and a bunch of other stuff installed. my pushrods are supposed to arrive tomorrow or the day after, and as long as everything keeps going well I assume Ill probably run the cam in the day after the pushrods show up. the only real problem Ive run into getting the driveline installed is that the nuts/bolts for the upper leg of my transmission crossmember on the driver side are badly frozen. you know, the ones that a wrench will barely slip onto between the frame and the body, and the nut is next to fuel and brake lines? Ive been spraying with PB blaster and hoping they will loosen up. They probably need about 1/4" of travel to be seated, I can slip a finger between the nut and the frame. it occurred to me that I may should try to get the nuts off instead of tightening them, I have a tap and die for that thread pitch. the bolts are captive, but tapping the nuts may alleviate some trouble in the future. if it wasnt next to a wiring harness and fuel/brake lines Id consider putting some heat on it too. My slave cylinder seems to be toast, the clutch pedal produces no movement in the slave cylinder and it dripped two drops of brake fluid on me while I was tryign to figure out the issue. I should have a new one in hand by the end of the day, but Ill have to bleed it in which Ive never done before. Ive watched a few YouTube videos. I guess we will see how that goes. Ill keep you all posted! the pictures are looking good. I see that you are using the efi exhaust manifolds. what intake are you going to use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted March 7, 2022 Author Share Posted March 7, 2022 the pictures are looking good. I see that you are using the efi exhaust manifolds. what intake are you going to use? Thanks Gary! And good point - Ill find some thread locker for those. Matt - It is an Offenhauser C series. I think an Offy dp is supposed to be the better low end torque manifold but I wanted to run a 2bbl instead of a 4 for simplicity and the C series makes it somewhat easy to use a 2 barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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