"Powered by Ford" Grand Wagoneer...

[ArdWrknTrk]

I attempted to use the leakdown tester, but there was a bunch of water in the first cylinder, so I would have to remove the heads for deeper inspection anyway. I went ahead and tried to test the first few anyway, just for the experience. Here are a few pics of that.

...So the second gauge didn't rise past 0, which I think means it's good? But the first cylinder gurgled, and water came out of the spark plug hole. Upon removing the heads, #1 was the only wet cylinder. I inspected the bores for scoring, and I believe they look decent. There is a ledge around the deck rim on each, but perhaps it is carbon buildup? Look at these:

But I also noticed a phenomenon that might indicate something. See the colors of the rocker arms and pushrods for the driver's side vs. the passenger side? the driver's side looks cleaner. Like golden-brown. And the passenger side looks blackened, like maybe burnt or something? Nothing looked very worn or oil-starved, but I wonder if this is significant. See these photos:

So anyway, I will be taking it all apart just for peace of mind and assurance that I will have done everything I can to make this engine run as long as possible.

Next time: using an impact gun to take off the harmonic balancer!

I don't really believe I've ever seen leakdowns below 4-5%, and that would be considered 'great!'

Consider that the PCV is pulling fresh filtered air into the DS valve cover and all the crankcase blow-by up into the passenger side VC.

I can't say this is the reason you have what you observe but it is plausible (to me)

Hopefully others will chime in with what they've seen.

[Gary Lewis]

I don't really believe I've ever seen leakdowns below 4-5%, and that would be considered 'great!'

Consider that the PCV is pulling fresh filtered air into the DS valve cover and all the crankcase blow-by up into the passenger side VC.

I can't say this is the reason you have what you observe but it is plausible (to me)

Hopefully others will chime in with what they've seen.

I think there is some confusion about the leak-down tester. The formula for % leakage is (left gauge - right gauge)/left gauge. So with the left gauge at 100 and the right gauge at 0 you have (100 - 0)/100 and that is 100% leakage. And with the left gauge at 100 psi the right gauge basically shows you the leakage %.

So there is either something wrong in the setup for testing or in the engine. In the setup you must have the piston on TDC on the compression stroke so both valves are closed. Otherwise the air will escape through the valves.

If that was right then there is a problem with the engine. It is possible that since the engine hasn't run in quite a while that the rings aren't sealed, but I'd doubt that you'd get 100% loss.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think there is some confusion about the leak-down tester. The formula for % leakage is (left gauge - right gauge)/left gauge. So with the left gauge at 100 and the right gauge at 0 you have (100 - 0)/100 and that is 100% leakage. And with the left gauge at 100 psi the right gauge basically shows you the leakage %.

So there is either something wrong in the setup for testing or in the engine. In the setup you must have the piston on TDC on the compression stroke so both valves are closed. Otherwise the air will escape through the valves.

If that was right then there is a problem with the engine. It is possible that since the engine hasn't run in quite a while that the rings aren't sealed, but I'd doubt that you'd get 100% loss.

doh!

I didn't even look at which side had air supplied.

Additionally, you want to listen for where the air is leaking (intake, exhaust or crankcase) this tells you where the pressure is leaking.

Gary, have you any thoughts on why the right side rockers are so crusty?

[FoxFord33]

I think there is some confusion about the leak-down tester. The formula for % leakage is (left gauge - right gauge)/left gauge. So with the left gauge at 100 and the right gauge at 0 you have (100 - 0)/100 and that is 100% leakage. And with the left gauge at 100 psi the right gauge basically shows you the leakage %.

So there is either something wrong in the setup for testing or in the engine. In the setup you must have the piston on TDC on the compression stroke so both valves are closed. Otherwise the air will escape through the valves.

If that was right then there is a problem with the engine. It is possible that since the engine hasn't run in quite a while that the rings aren't sealed, but I'd doubt that you'd get 100% loss.

Ok, I know I'm missing something. Is the left gauge in tens of psi? Because it only goes up to 15. The adapter and hose were configured to go that way, so I don't think I have it backwards. It is designed to make the hose and second gauge into a plenum extension from the cylinder through the spark plug adapter. The first (left) gauge is the gateway to the pressurized system.

Well, I think I will be glad to take the engine all down and have it gone through, anyway. At the very least, I will re-ring the pistons. The E7 heads will work for a fallback plan if I can't get aluminum heads I like, and if I use them, I will have them reworked, too.

[Gary Lewis]

Ok, I know I'm missing something. Is the left gauge in tens of psi? Because it only goes up to 15. The adapter and hose were configured to go that way, so I don't think I have it backwards. It is designed to make the hose and second gauge into a plenum extension from the cylinder through the spark plug adapter. The first (left) gauge is the gateway to the pressurized system.

Well, I think I will be glad to take the engine all down and have it gone through, anyway. At the very least, I will re-ring the pistons. The E7 heads will work for a fallback plan if I can't get aluminum heads I like, and if I use them, I will have them reworked, too.

:nabble_smiley_blush:

I gave you the wrong gauge/regulator set for the left side!!!! Yes, that one only goes to 15 PSI where the correct one goes to well over 100.

As for re-ringing, you have to break the glaze, and hopefully put a crosshatching in, or new rings won’t seat. Did you number the lifters so they can go back against their paired lobes if you want to reuse the cam?

Jim - I liked your answer on the different colors on each bank. That’s my understanding as well.

[FoxFord33]

:nabble_smiley_blush:

I gave you the wrong gauge/regulator set for the left side!!!! Yes, that one only goes to 15 PSI where the correct one goes to well over 100.

As for re-ringing, you have to break the glaze, and hopefully put a crosshatching in, or new rings won’t seat. Did you number the lifters so they can go back against their paired lobes if you want to reuse the cam?

Jim - I liked your answer on the different colors on each bank. That’s my understanding as well.

That's OK, Gary. I wanted to check on the wet cylinder, anyway. And I haven't removed the lifters yet, but when I do, I will number them just in case.

Jim, I am with you on that theory, too. The right side is piped in to the intake, and the left side is just for oil fill.

[FoxFord33]

That's OK, Gary. I wanted to check on the wet cylinder, anyway. And I haven't removed the lifters yet, but when I do, I will number them just in case.

Jim, I am with you on that theory, too. The right side is piped in to the intake, and the left side is just for oil fill.

All right; More adventuring.

I got the oil pan off, and had a preliminary look at the connecting rods. Not that my cave-man eyes can tell anything of real value, but it looks to be free of sludge inside. That seems nice.

Note the foreign material in the oil pickup screen...

Perhaps it is some rubber gasket material gone crispy?

And I pulled the balancer and the timing cover. There were only two bolts broken from the water pump, so kind of a big win there. I also removed those once the timing cover was off.

Between these next two photos is the timing chain slack demonstration. Maybe variable cam timing? http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/head-rotfl-57x22_orig.gif

And just to show that I got those top two bolts out:

Also, that cam on the outside of the cam gear is consideration for mechanical fuel pump, correct? Is there a need for that? Because it rattles and rings like a bell. If I could delete it without throwing off internal balance, I would. Let me know what you think!

[ArdWrknTrk]

All right; More adventuring.

I got the oil pan off, and had a preliminary look at the connecting rods. Not that my cave-man eyes can tell anything of real value, but it looks to be free of sludge inside. That seems nice.

Note the foreign material in the oil pickup screen...

Perhaps it is some rubber gasket material gone crispy?

And I pulled the balancer and the timing cover. There were only two bolts broken from the water pump, so kind of a big win there. I also removed those once the timing cover was off.

Between these next two photos is the timing chain slack demonstration. Maybe variable cam timing?

And just to show that I got those top two bolts out:

Also, that cam on the outside of the cam gear is consideration for mechanical fuel pump, correct? Is there a need for that? Because it rattles and rings like a bell. If I could delete it without throwing off internal balance, I would. Let me know what you think!

Honestly it looks pretty good!

It's really loose when the chain eats a hole in the housing!

At least you don't have a pickup full of shredded nylon like an earlier truck.

The fuel pump eccentric has nothing to do with balance but you need something to take its place when you go back with a new timing set.

I won't tell you what happens when the retaining bolt bottoms out in the cam before the gear is tight.

[Gary Lewis]

Honestly it looks pretty good!

It's really loose when the chain eats a hole in the housing!

At least you don't have a pickup full of shredded nylon like an earlier truck.

The fuel pump eccentric has nothing to do with balance but you need something to take its place when you go back with a new timing set.

I won't tell you what happens when the retaining bolt bottoms out in the cam before the gear is tight.

It does look pretty good. But you can check out the crank clearances with Plastigage.

Good job on the bolts. You will need to think about what bolts to go back with to ensure they don't break/seize in future.

As for the chain, 1/2" of slop is said to be the max and I think you have more than that.

[ArdWrknTrk]

It does look pretty good. But you can check out the crank clearances with Plastigage.

Good job on the bolts. You will need to think about what bolts to go back with to ensure they don't break/seize in future.

As for the chain, 1/2" of slop is said to be the max and I think you have more than that.

I use Loctite PST on all bolts in the water pump and timing case.

It is anaerobic sealant but not like Loctite in the conventional sense.

It is used for stainless fittings and flange bolts in the chemical and petroleum industries.

Prevents galling and leaks up to thousands of pounds, It does not increase breakaway torque.

I can attest it works great it this application.