FoxFord33 Posted May 18, 2023 Author Share Posted May 18, 2023 Ok, I'm glad to hear I can borrow from you. I know that my set of torx is 3/8" drive, and cannot fit down in there; additionally, my own head has a larger diameter than 2", therefore I cannot get a view in there to size it. I can't tell the size from my picture. I imagined that a set which is mostly shaft would do it, so I see Jim's posted suggestions would work well. I will contact you, Gary! Thanks again, both of you! Okay, the torx that works is a T40 1/4" hex drive tip for $5 at the hardware store. I put it in a 1/4" socket on a screwdriver and easily turned it out. Then came the really tricky part: getting the loose intake out. There are a dozen things in the way. So after removing the distributor, I also removed the water temperature housing. I didn't check clearance for the fuel line and broke it. Aargh. I probably want clean ones, anyway. But it's out now! So I'll be removing the alternator mount next time. An interesting note that was literally written on the alternator: "98 Explorer" And the alternator housing is cracked. So, a junkyard pull. Welp, I know I'm not getting one from O'Reilly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 18, 2023 Share Posted May 18, 2023 Okay, the torx that works is a T40 1/4" hex drive tip for $5 at the hardware store. I put it in a 1/4" socket on a screwdriver and easily turned it out. Then came the really tricky part: getting the loose intake out. There are a dozen things in the way. So after removing the distributor, I also removed the water temperature housing. I didn't check clearance for the fuel line and broke it. Aargh. I probably want clean ones, anyway. But it's out now! So I'll be removing the alternator mount next time. An interesting note that was literally written on the alternator: "98 Explorer" And the alternator housing is cracked. So, a junkyard pull. Welp, I know I'm not getting one from O'Reilly. Hadn’t thought of a Torx bit. Duh! Glad you got it out. As for the fuel line, if it is the Nylon stuff I have the tool to insert fittings in the line and some fittings and line. You’ll have to make a whole new fuel system anyway. Been there, done that, and love it. Save the tank off the van so you can check if it’ll fit the Wagoneer. And I have some pickup tanks you can test. On the alternator, not only were the O’Reilly ones failing quickly, they were selling us the wrong ones. The Alternator light would not go off with the 2nd one, even though the voltage was perfect. Turns out there’s another alternator with the correct circuit in it to turn the light off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxFord33 Posted May 18, 2023 Author Share Posted May 18, 2023 Hadn’t thought of a Torx bit. Duh! Glad you got it out. As for the fuel line, if it is the Nylon stuff I have the tool to insert fittings in the line and some fittings and line. You’ll have to make a whole new fuel system anyway. Been there, done that, and love it. Save the tank off the van so you can check if it’ll fit the Wagoneer. And I have some pickup tanks you can test. On the alternator, not only were the O’Reilly ones failing quickly, they were selling us the wrong ones. The Alternator light would not go off with the 2nd one, even though the voltage was perfect. Turns out there’s another alternator with the correct circuit in it to turn the light off. I wa almost ready to alter a socket, but you could say that I was loathe to lathe a perfectly good tool when there could be a more straightforward solution. Those bolts come out easy. On the fuel, yes it was the soft line. I think it was getting crispy, anyway. It is all fixable! I did end up rounding a bolt head trying to separate the throttle body from the intake. Looks like rusty water is the reason it's stuck. I will have to use more heat carefully. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxFord33 Posted May 19, 2023 Author Share Posted May 19, 2023 I wa almost ready to alter a socket, but you could say that I was loathe to lathe a perfectly good tool when there could be a more straightforward solution. Those bolts come out easy. On the fuel, yes it was the soft line. I think it was getting crispy, anyway. It is all fixable! I did end up rounding a bolt head trying to separate the throttle body from the intake. Looks like rusty water is the reason it's stuck. I will have to use more heat carefully. Ok, a few pictures, a little progress. I finished removing the air pump/alternator accessory bracket. I will have to research the air pump delete. I unbolted the exhaust, got the dirt back out of my eyes, took loose the engine and transmission mounts, and made sure one last time that nothing else was connected. I decided it was time to drain the oil. It was pretty dark, but not sludgy yet. Then I tried to hook a chain through the engine lift points. There is not enough room between the engine bay ceiling and the top of the valve covers to get my shop crane in there. So after some finagling, I just strung a chain between the bolt holes in the heads and pulled up and out. Eventually, it came. I kept swaying the engine/trans back and forth while using a 4' convincer bar. No damage so far. I got it about 1/3 of the way out. I don't know what I should do about the tail of the transmission. It is not supported right now, and I was thinking about running a strap around it and back up to the shop crane to lift it. But I had to attend to kids' needs and stuff for the evening. So it's getting closer! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 Ok, a few pictures, a little progress. I finished removing the air pump/alternator accessory bracket. I will have to research the air pump delete. I unbolted the exhaust, got the dirt back out of my eyes, took loose the engine and transmission mounts, and made sure one last time that nothing else was connected. I decided it was time to drain the oil. It was pretty dark, but not sludgy yet. Then I tried to hook a chain through the engine lift points. There is not enough room between the engine bay ceiling and the top of the valve covers to get my shop crane in there. So after some finagling, I just strung a chain between the bolt holes in the heads and pulled up and out. Eventually, it came. I kept swaying the engine/trans back and forth while using a 4' convincer bar. No damage so far. I got it about 1/3 of the way out. I don't know what I should do about the tail of the transmission. It is not supported right now, and I was thinking about running a strap around it and back up to the shop crane to lift it. But I had to attend to kids' needs and stuff for the evening. So it's getting closer! Steve, can you support the transmission with a floor jack? At least until you get the assembly far enough forward to re-balance your chain from the engine crane? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FoxFord33 Posted May 19, 2023 Author Share Posted May 19, 2023 Steve, can you support the transmission with a floor jack? At least until you get the assembly far enough forward to re-balance your chain from the engine crane? Yes, Jim; I neglected to mention that I am supporting the trans with a floor jack as it comes out. I think you are right about that. I hope it will come forward far enough to use the lift points and I can switch to that. If it's not too rainy today, then maybe! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 Yes, Jim; I neglected to mention that I am supporting the trans with a floor jack as it comes out. I think you are right about that. I hope it will come forward far enough to use the lift points and I can switch to that. If it's not too rainy today, then maybe! Good progress!!! And the ratchet strap idea might work pull the tranny up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 Yes, Jim; I neglected to mention that I am supporting the trans with a floor jack as it comes out. I think you are right about that. I hope it will come forward far enough to use the lift points and I can switch to that. If it's not too rainy today, then maybe! Maybe I missed it but how do you intend to connect a 2wd van transmission to your Jeep transfer case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 Maybe I missed it but how do you intend to connect a 2wd van transmission to your Jeep transfer case? We've had that conversation and he's probably headed to work, so I'll reply with what little I know since I have a few minutes. He plans to use the E4OD that is in the van as well as another one he got for cheap to trade/barter for a 4wd E4OD. But he's not going to use the t-case that came in the Wagoneer. Instead he's going to use an NP208 I had which has a very slow leak through a small crack in the case. I think it can be welded up, and Welder Scott comes to mind for that, but I don't know what the plan is there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted May 19, 2023 Share Posted May 19, 2023 We've had that conversation and he's probably headed to work, so I'll reply with what little I know since I have a few minutes. He plans to use the E4OD that is in the van as well as another one he got for cheap to trade/barter for a 4wd E4OD. But he's not going to use the t-case that came in the Wagoneer. Instead he's going to use an NP208 I had which has a very slow leak through a small crack in the case. I think it can be welded up, and Welder Scott comes to mind for that, but I don't know what the plan is there. If welding would distort the case you could use green (wicking) Loctite on the crack or paint the inside with Glyptal. This is what we used to do with porous or cracked Brit-bike cases Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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