"Powered by Ford" Grand Wagoneer...

[Gary Lewis]

I use Loctite PST on all bolts in the water pump and timing case.

It is anaerobic sealant but not like Loctite in the conventional sense.

It is used for stainless fittings and flange bolts in the chemical and petroleum industries.

Prevents galling and leaks up to thousands of pounds, It does not increase breakaway torque.

I can attest it works great it this application.

Yep, PST is now my go-to for water pumps and timing covers. In fact, I use it in a lot of applications.

[FoxFord33]

I use Loctite PST on all bolts in the water pump and timing case.

It is anaerobic sealant but not like Loctite in the conventional sense.

It is used for stainless fittings and flange bolts in the chemical and petroleum industries.

Prevents galling and leaks up to thousands of pounds, It does not increase breakaway torque.

I can attest it works great it this application.

Very good tip, thanks! I will be looking into Locktite PST!

[FoxFord33]

Very good tip, thanks! I will be looking into Locktite PST!

I was fiddling with the rod journals, and they moved by hand, so I took off the first piston rod cap. It looks like it is all but spun. Here are some pictures:

I hope the pictures do some justice to real life. It looks like the bearings have wear patterns, and I am glad to be replacing them. Edit: I think the pattern looks like corrosion or overheating. Also, I am holding the cap-side bearing of the #1 rod. It looks like it has a "spun" pattern against the cap itself. It is not like the crank journals, which look really slick and pretty. I think the crank looks good. I have not removed the crank yet, but I am thinking of the condition of the crank bearings.

Also, I let one piston fall about 3" and the skirt broke off. I was so surprised and upset. I think this means I pretty much have to match bores to new pistons. I know the less I have to do, the better, but I may have shot myself in the foot.

[Gary Lewis]

I was fiddling with the rod journals, and they moved by hand, so I took off the first piston rod cap. It looks like it is all but spun. Here are some pictures:

I hope the pictures do some justice to real life. It looks like the bearings have wear patterns, and I am glad to be replacing them. Edit: I think the pattern looks like corrosion or overheating. Also, I am holding the cap-side bearing of the #1 rod. It looks like it has a "spun" pattern against the cap itself. It is not like the crank journals, which look really slick and pretty. I think the crank looks good. I have not removed the crank yet, but I am thinking of the condition of the crank bearings.

Also, I let one piston fall about 3" and the skirt broke off. I was so surprised and upset. I think this means I pretty much have to match bores to new pistons. I know the less I have to do, the better, but I may have shot myself in the foot.

I think what you are seeing is the corrosive effect of water. A wear pattern will be like in the last pic.

As for the piston, it will obviously have to be replaced. But to do this correctly you should have the block bored and then go with oversized pistons. The reason is that the bores will surely be out of round due to wear. Besides, one cylinder had water in it and will likely be etched.

Honestly, I don’t know that this engine will be worth it. My experience with getting engine work done in Tulsa has not been good, nor has Brandon/Bruno2’s. My work was not done correctly and Brandon’s was never done - after years of waiting.

But I have inside mikes if you want to measure the bores and see how worn they are.

[FoxFord33]

Honestly, I don’t know that this engine will be worth it...

Yeesh... I hope I don't have to start again. But at least I have some materials that will work to get some forward progress out of The Heap.

I will be checking after a lead on a Ford engine builder in the Tulsa area. If I can just have the thing 030 or 040 over, get some KB's, use my rods and crank, that would be the best case at this point.

[Gary Lewis]

Honestly, I don’t know that this engine will be worth it...

Yeesh... I hope I don't have to start again. But at least I have some materials that will work to get some forward progress out of The Heap.

I will be checking after a lead on a Ford engine builder in the Tulsa area. If I can just have the thing 030 or 040 over, get some KB's, use my rods and crank, that would be the best case at this point.

It may clean up at .030 or .040 over, so if you find a good machinist then that will be good. I hope you can.

[FoxFord33]

It may clean up at .030 or .040 over, so if you find a good machinist then that will be good. I hope you can. http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/uploads/6/5/8/7/65879365/crossed-fingers-20-pixel_orig.png

Just putting this picture here so I don't forget. It's the crank bearings in order. I believe they also show corrosion wear and/or heat damage.

Next is Plastigauge so I can accurately assess the bearings on the crank and rod journals. I know that I want to get this block machined, and I have a few leads on machine shops. After the holiday, they will probably answer phones again, and I will find out timing and pricing. At the worst, I will unwillingly end up joining the reason machine shops go out of business: Getting a crate motor. I don't want to do that, but I also want to drive this thing within my lifetime.

[Gary Lewis]

Just putting this picture here so I don't forget. It's the crank bearings in order. I believe they also show corrosion wear and/or heat damage.

Next is Plastigauge so I can accurately assess the bearings on the crank and rod journals. I know that I want to get this block machined, and I have a few leads on machine shops. After the holiday, they will probably answer phones again, and I will find out timing and pricing. At the worst, I will unwillingly end up joining the reason machine shops go out of business: Getting a crate motor. I don't want to do that, but I also want to drive this thing within my lifetime.

The only thing better about having your engine machined locally is that it should cost less. But a "crate" engine will come with some kind of warranty, which is good if you aren't a very experienced engine builder or might get bad parts - like a cam or lifters. And a "crate" engine should be much quicker to receive than having one machined.

However, you might have your father check around Winfield and I'll ask my brother & his boys about Ark City. Years ago a classmate of mine ran a machine shop in Ark City and the work was good, cheap, and fast. But he's retired and last I knew no one was doing that there.

And you might ask others on here that are "local", like John/Machspeed in Wagoner. (An engine from Wagoner for a Wagoneer?) Or, perhaps there's someone in Tulsa I've not found?

But I'd go to Scotty The Mad Porter at his machine shop in Tacoma, Washington. However, I don't know that he does 351W's since his forte has been 460's.

 

[FoxFord33]

The only thing better about having your engine machined locally is that it should cost less. But a "crate" engine will come with some kind of warranty, which is good if you aren't a very experienced engine builder or might get bad parts - like a cam or lifters. And a "crate" engine should be much quicker to receive than having one machined.

However, you might have your father check around Winfield and I'll ask my brother & his boys about Ark City. Years ago a classmate of mine ran a machine shop in Ark City and the work was good, cheap, and fast. But he's retired and last I knew no one was doing that there.

And you might ask others on here that are "local", like John/Machspeed in Wagoner. (An engine from Wagoner for a Wagoneer?) Or, perhaps there's someone in Tulsa I've not found?

But I'd go to Scotty The Mad Porter at his machine shop in Tacoma, Washington. However, I don't know that he does 351W's since his forte has been 460's.

I did ask my dad, and he had looked around recently for his go-devil 1952 jeep to be bored and honed, but his findings led him to get file-your-own ring sets. It stopped the visible smoke from the tailpipe, but he's using his jeep like most people use side-by-side Polaris Rangers or John Deere Gators. So that works for intermittent farm use, and no roads.

But we're going to be calling around. Your connections are appreciated also! If it's in OK, KS, MO, or AR, I think I could see making a trip for that purpose. Well, 2 trips; one to drop it and one to pick it up. I won't have failed in this until after Memorial day when I can call these places. Still hopeful!

[Bruce moose4x4]

I did ask my dad, and he had looked around recently for his go-devil 1952 jeep to be bored and honed, but his findings led him to get file-your-own ring sets. It stopped the visible smoke from the tailpipe, but he's using his jeep like most people use side-by-side Polaris Rangers or John Deere Gators. So that works for intermittent farm use, and no roads.

But we're going to be calling around. Your connections are appreciated also! If it's in OK, KS, MO, or AR, I think I could see making a trip for that purpose. Well, 2 trips; one to drop it and one to pick it up. I won't have failed in this until after Memorial day when I can call these places. Still hopeful!

There is a reputable Machine shop in Springfield Mo I have been using for over 30 years. Does all my machine work.

 

Motor Machine Shop

706 E Commercial ST

Springfield, MO 65803

417-865-0653

Ask for Mike Pickens, Tell him Bruce sent you. It won't do any good on a discount price. LOL. But I totally trust him and his judgment. If you happen to bring it to him, let me know I work second shift and I could meet you up there some morning.

As far as Crate motor goes. We can't get remaned engines through work here. There is a terrible parts shortage on internal engine parts. Haven't checked availability on a crate engine though. Go to summit racing and search for Ford 351 Crate Engine and look at all the ones that are not available.

If your building you own engine, Camresearchcorp.com will break in your cam on a machine without it being in the engine. I would have put in a link but work has that site blocked for some reason.