JimJam300 Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 Trying to get my brake lines right. The Titan flaring tool I bought does a good job, but my cutting and filing and deburring can use some work. Here's some of my work before blowing out the debris with brake cleaner If I can't use the F150 fuel lines then I will have to buy the appropriate sized Titan flare tool. I might just use the old ones and upgrade to high pressure lines when I get the Holley Sniper 1100. Also I'm not sure how you guys bend your brake lines, but I zip tied the old lines to some tubing and bent the tubing exactly side-by-side. They look kind of funny to me when they're on the truck, I might re-do them OCD style in the future. Driveshafts and transfer case are out. Also got to use my new toy. I am still getting used to how it works. The head was much larger than I was hoping, so it doesn't fit everywhere a standard ratchet can. Has anyone purchased the Bronco driveshafts from Jeff's Bronco Graveyard? I can't find anything on the u-joint sizes. Also, not gonna be rock crawling or anything, but they are really cheap compared to most other ones I find online, just want to make sure I'm getting something that's straight and balanced. I'm also gonna have to post some pictures of the transfer case shifter linkage that came out of my truck so I can pick all your brains about needing a "standard" shifter linkage or converting the one I have. Since the factory transmission is a SROD, things are a bit different down there. Okay it doesn't look like the linkage and shifter can be used on a "standard" transfer case adapter. The shifter is pressed into the linkage and that part of it doesn't look like it can be reversed or anything. Curse Ford for using this transmission in a truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 Okay it doesn't look like the linkage and shifter can be used on a "standard" transfer case adapter. The shifter is pressed into the linkage and that part of it doesn't look like it can be reversed or anything. Curse Ford for using this transmission in a truck. Is this the shifter and linkage I am looking for? My new trans is a T19 and xfer case is a NP208 Very expensive https://www.ebay.com/itm/324992902502?hash=item4bab162566:g:YWYAAOSwd3thT4Md Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpin Posted January 31, 2022 Share Posted January 31, 2022 Is this the shifter and linkage I am looking for? My new trans is a T19 and xfer case is a NP208 Very expensive https://www.ebay.com/itm/324992902502?hash=item4bab162566:g:YWYAAOSwd3thT4Md On the driveshafts, my Bronco has that rear short double cardan u joint that it looks like you have. I asked a mechanic I used to use to do the u joints in it and he said he doesn’t do them because when you get one changed in that double cardan you ruin it trying to do the next one. He suggested I get an assembly. They were around $300 when I was looking and there wasn’t any anywhere. I decided to take it to a local driveline specialist. And I’m glad I did. Took it in just after lunch and said I assume it’ll be done tomorrow. Girl behind the counter said it might be done today. She called around 3:30 saying it was done. $115.00, and they painted it! Been great. Now I don’t wrestle with u joints anymore. Take them there. Suburban rear was $65 with a balance, Jeep Liberty my son used to have $45. On the linkage, I don’t know looking at the pictures. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted January 31, 2022 Author Share Posted January 31, 2022 On the driveshafts, my Bronco has that rear short double cardan u joint that it looks like you have. I asked a mechanic I used to use to do the u joints in it and he said he doesn’t do them because when you get one changed in that double cardan you ruin it trying to do the next one. He suggested I get an assembly. They were around $300 when I was looking and there wasn’t any anywhere. I decided to take it to a local driveline specialist. And I’m glad I did. Took it in just after lunch and said I assume it’ll be done tomorrow. Girl behind the counter said it might be done today. She called around 3:30 saying it was done. $115.00, and they painted it! Been great. Now I don’t wrestle with u joints anymore. Take them there. Suburban rear was $65 with a balance, Jeep Liberty my son used to have $45. On the linkage, I don’t know looking at the pictures. Yup after doing the front u-joints myself to save money I'm not messing with that anymore. The driveshafts on Bronco Graveyard appear to come with new u-joints but I have no idea what brand. I wanted to go with Spicer non-greasable all around but I guess that's out. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-82-Rear-Driveshaft-3-7_8-x-30-5_8-x-3-7_8/productinfo/32405/ https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-82-Front-Driveshaft-32-3_4/productinfo/32400/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted February 1, 2022 Author Share Posted February 1, 2022 Yup after doing the front u-joints myself to save money I'm not messing with that anymore. The driveshafts on Bronco Graveyard appear to come with new u-joints but I have no idea what brand. I wanted to go with Spicer non-greasable all around but I guess that's out. https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-82-Rear-Driveshaft-3-7_8-x-30-5_8-x-3-7_8/productinfo/32405/ https://shop.broncograveyard.com/1980-82-Front-Driveshaft-32-3_4/productinfo/32400/ Is this the floor cover I need for a T19 trans? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 1, 2022 Share Posted February 1, 2022 Is this the floor cover I need for a T19 trans? Hard to say looking straight down. That's 'cause there are two - the short one and the tall one. You need the short one but the tall one will work. ZF5's take the tall one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StraightSix Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 Hard to say looking straight down. That's 'cause there are two - the short one and the tall one. You need the short one but the tall one will work. ZF5's take the tall one. Maybe the ujoints in the front end are more work, but I rebuilt both shafts at home and didnt think either were that bad. I rebuilt the double cardan too. I ended up buying 1330 series spicer forged sealed ujoints on amazon, it was the cheapest place. Tracking down the swivel ball hardware was the hardest part of building the double cardan. The ujoint press makes all the difference in the amount of work it takes. I would say I spent well under 2 hours to do both with the double cardan. If you decide to try it out Ill dig through my amazon receipts and stuff to find part numbers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 Maybe the ujoints in the front end are more work, but I rebuilt both shafts at home and didnt think either were that bad. I rebuilt the double cardan too. I ended up buying 1330 series spicer forged sealed ujoints on amazon, it was the cheapest place. Tracking down the swivel ball hardware was the hardest part of building the double cardan. The ujoint press makes all the difference in the amount of work it takes. I would say I spent well under 2 hours to do both with the double cardan. If you decide to try it out Ill dig through my amazon receipts and stuff to find part numbers. I can't recall what gave me so much trouble, but I remember heavy use of my 4lb hammer and I'm still finding needle bearings under my work bench. The front driveshaft will not compress all the way. I'm definitely going to outsource this work or just replace em. I bought this on a whim so I hope it's what I need for the T19 rebuild. It appears to have all the specialized tools required for reassembly as stated in Documentation, but the ad did not state the individual part numbers of each piece, just the suffix "A" part number. Here's hoping it also comes with suffix B, K, L, Q, R, and S. I suppose I'll know when it comes in, and I could probably turn it around for the same amount I bought it for... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted February 2, 2022 Share Posted February 2, 2022 I can't recall what gave me so much trouble, but I remember heavy use of my 4lb hammer and I'm still finding needle bearings under my work bench. The front driveshaft will not compress all the way. I'm definitely going to outsource this work or just replace em. I bought this on a whim so I hope it's what I need for the T19 rebuild. It appears to have all the specialized tools required for reassembly as stated in Documentation, but the ad did not state the individual part numbers of each piece, just the suffix "A" part number. Here's hoping it also comes with suffix B, K, L, Q, R, and S. I suppose I'll know when it comes in, and I could probably turn it around for the same amount I bought it for... Nice find! The tool kits don't show in the master parts catalog. Given that I don't have a way of seeing what the individual part numbers are. But if that kit has the part number called for in the factory shop manual it should have all of the individual pieces you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted February 2, 2022 Author Share Posted February 2, 2022 Nice find! The tool kits don't show in the master parts catalog. Given that I don't have a way of seeing what the individual part numbers are. But if that kit has the part number called for in the factory shop manual it should have all of the individual pieces you need. I found this on a page detailing TOD, RTS, and T170 conversions for Model Ts and As. It appears the "A" kit comes with all those other suffixes. Highlighted green are just the ones needed for "toploader" service. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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