ArdWrknTrk Posted October 30, 2022 Share Posted October 30, 2022 I done did it. Was easier than I thought it would be. I used a MAPP torch and whatever brazing rods they had available at Lowe's, precision wasn't great but it worked. I wanted to borrow a portable oxy/acetylene rig we have at work, but looks like it walked off along with lots of other tools when one of the mechanics recently quit... Glad to hear it worked out well for you! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted October 30, 2022 Share Posted October 30, 2022 I done did it. Was easier than I thought it would be. I used a MAPP torch and whatever brazing rods they had available at Lowe's, precision wasn't great but it worked. I wanted to borrow a portable oxy/acetylene rig we have at work, but looks like it walked off along with lots of other tools when one of the mechanics recently quit... Congrat's! Now I suggest something like POR-15 to seal any holes you missed as well as the rust itself. I used it on Big Blue and discovered I'd missed some really small pin holes, but the POR found them and sealed them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray Cecil Posted December 4, 2022 Share Posted December 4, 2022 Congrat's! Now I suggest something like POR-15 to seal any holes you missed as well as the rust itself. I used it on Big Blue and discovered I'd missed some really small pin holes, but the POR found them and sealed them. Sub'd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted December 15, 2022 Author Share Posted December 15, 2022 I done did it. Was easier than I thought it would be. I used a MAPP torch and whatever brazing rods they had available at Lowe's, precision wasn't great but it worked. I wanted to borrow a portable oxy/acetylene rig we have at work, but looks like it walked off along with lots of other tools when one of the mechanics recently quit... Does anyone know the diameter and pitch of the bolts that hold the power steering return/cooler line to the frame? I seem to have painted the holes they're supposed to go in. This piece is what I'm talking about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mat in tn Posted December 15, 2022 Share Posted December 15, 2022 Does anyone know the diameter and pitch of the bolts that hold the power steering return/cooler line to the frame? I seem to have painted the holes they're supposed to go in. This piece is what I'm talking about 5/16-18 with a1/2" wrench head. but the bolts ford installed had thread cutter ends so they would eliminate a step on the assembly line. use one of those and it should follow right in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted December 17, 2022 Author Share Posted December 17, 2022 5/16-18 with a1/2" wrench head. but the bolts ford installed had thread cutter ends so they would eliminate a step on the assembly line. use one of those and it should follow right in. I'm gonna put the new fuel tank in soon and I don't wanna remove it again to put in the return line when I get my Holley Sniper, and I bet I can come up with something better than their instructions, which include using a Vapor Guard rubber fuel line submerged in the tank. They use an Earl's fitting similar to what I'm thinking here except I can get a 316 stainless fitting from McMaster for $34, some 3/8 tube out of the scrap bin at work, and have something that should last indefinitely. The ID of this fitting necks down to .28" and I'm not sure if that will pose a problem. The manual calls for a 3/8 fuel and return line, but the ID of fuel fittings of course will be smaller than that. 5/16-18 with a1/2" wrench head. but the bolts ford installed had thread cutter ends so they would eliminate a step on the assembly line. use one of those and it should follow right in. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted January 3, 2023 Author Share Posted January 3, 2023 I'm gonna put the new fuel tank in soon and I don't wanna remove it again to put in the return line when I get my Holley Sniper, and I bet I can come up with something better than their instructions, which include using a Vapor Guard rubber fuel line submerged in the tank. They use an Earl's fitting similar to what I'm thinking here except I can get a 316 stainless fitting from McMaster for $34, some 3/8 tube out of the scrap bin at work, and have something that should last indefinitely. The ID of this fitting necks down to .28" and I'm not sure if that will pose a problem. The manual calls for a 3/8 fuel and return line, but the ID of fuel fittings of course will be smaller than that. 5/16-18 with a1/2" wrench head. but the bolts ford installed had thread cutter ends so they would eliminate a step on the assembly line. use one of those and it should follow right in. Thanks! I just got done painting the whole undercarriage and I'm piecing things back together under there. Right now I'm running the new brake lines. I have the proportioning valve sitting on my work bench and it has me wondering if I should replace it or not. I'm able to clean up the outside, but the ports for the brake lines are a bit rusty. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 3, 2023 Share Posted January 3, 2023 I just got done painting the whole undercarriage and I'm piecing things back together under there. Right now I'm running the new brake lines. I have the proportioning valve sitting on my work bench and it has me wondering if I should replace it or not. I'm able to clean up the outside, but the ports for the brake lines are a bit rusty. Those things are pretty robust, so I doubt you'll have any problem with it. That is one of the few things I didn't replace on Dad's truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimJam300 Posted January 6, 2023 Author Share Posted January 6, 2023 Those things are pretty robust, so I doubt you'll have any problem with it. That is one of the few things I didn't replace on Dad's truck. Thank you Gary. Do you know if the stock brake system can take DOT 5? Also just an update and thinking about how I'm going to proceed now that the undercarriage is fully painted. I'm still working on getting my body mounts perfect, I replaced the metal sleeves and stuck with poly mounts. Since I couldn't find the sleeves for every position I've been using the position #4/5 sleeves and modifying lengths accordingly. Like I mentioned in a previous reply, the Prothane poly bushings aren't correct right out of the box. I was able to salvage the position #2 upper sleeves and paint them. I was able to salvage all my exhaust heat shields and I'm in the middle of battling the crappy sandblaster at work to remove the galvanized finish. I painted one with POR-15 silver high heat and I was not impressed even after I baked it in the oven. I thought it was going to go level out like regular POR-15 so I used a brush and it left streaks. I'm in between trying a different finish, using a Preval sprayer to apply it, or just saying "screw it" and brushing the rest. Once these go in, they're too difficult to remove again if I change my mind. Thinking about putting the drivetrain back in before the engine. When I pulled the SROD it was a royal pain, and the engine really got in the way because the crossmember does not give you much wiggle room. And speaking of crossmember, I'm not sure if the T19 uses the same crossmember as the SROD. I also don't know where to get rubber bushings for it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 7, 2023 Share Posted January 7, 2023 Thank you Gary. Do you know if the stock brake system can take DOT 5? Also just an update and thinking about how I'm going to proceed now that the undercarriage is fully painted. I'm still working on getting my body mounts perfect, I replaced the metal sleeves and stuck with poly mounts. Since I couldn't find the sleeves for every position I've been using the position #4/5 sleeves and modifying lengths accordingly. Like I mentioned in a previous reply, the Prothane poly bushings aren't correct right out of the box. I was able to salvage the position #2 upper sleeves and paint them. I was able to salvage all my exhaust heat shields and I'm in the middle of battling the crappy sandblaster at work to remove the galvanized finish. I painted one with POR-15 silver high heat and I was not impressed even after I baked it in the oven. I thought it was going to go level out like regular POR-15 so I used a brush and it left streaks. I'm in between trying a different finish, using a Preval sprayer to apply it, or just saying "screw it" and brushing the rest. Once these go in, they're too difficult to remove again if I change my mind. Thinking about putting the drivetrain back in before the engine. When I pulled the SROD it was a royal pain, and the engine really got in the way because the crossmember does not give you much wiggle room. And speaking of crossmember, I'm not sure if the T19 uses the same crossmember as the SROD. I also don't know where to get rubber bushings for it. I don't know if DOT5 will work in the brake system. I always use DOT3. On the heat shields I think I'd just paint them with a brush, but give them a 2nd coat. As for the crossmember, our page at Documentation/Suspension & Steering/Crossmembers seems to say that all 1980/84 4wd trucks used the same one, regardless of transmission. I wasn't aware of that, but that's what it looks like to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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