Jim's 1982 300 Six Bronco Original Restoration

[JimJam300]

Hello everyone,

Welcome to my build thread. The goal here is to get my 1982 Bronco back to original condition. That's it!

This thread is basically ripped from FullSizeBronco forums and will be basically identical in content but I can't control user posts. Corrections based on later info are in italics.

Just a little introduction on myself. I've been messing around with cars for a few years now and I finally have the confidence and funds to do a restoration. I had a 2000 Toyota 4Runner that I was wrenching on for a couple years but even before I bought it, what I really wanted was a Bronco or a Blazer, something big that can take highway driving like a champ with a removable top. For a while I've been casually looking so last week I went out and bought a 1982 with a 300 inline six and 4 speed manual trans and thought "wow this thing would look really cool with a new paint job!" So here I am with this Bronco sitting in my driveway. As a young man of 27, I have limited knowledge of Ford trucks (I've owned a 2003 Ranger, 1990 Ranger, and a 1994 Explorer scrap pile...), I have zero experience with carbureted engines, and I've never done any jobs bigger than a simple engine swap or interior rebuild. But I am willing to put in the hard work to get the job done and come out of this with a pretty truck I can be proud of. I invite constructive criticism for anything I am doing incorrectly, as I am still learning and I want this build to be done the right way.

This particular 1982 Ford Bronco is a base model equipped with a carb'd 300cid inline six and 3 speed manual with overdrive (SROD or RUG). Odometer says 68,000, but the condition of the truck leads me to believe that it hasn't rolled over. The paint is tu-tone Light Spruce Metallic with Wimbledon White, interior is all spruce with front bucket seats and the rear bench. It has been off the road and utilized as a farm truck since it was last registered in 1996 and as a result has fallen into disrepair, but never ever modified. It has many missing and damaged parts, but the remaining stuff is all original. The frame has surface rust as to be expected, but nothing some paint can't fix. The body is in decent shape, needs slight bodywork and paint all around, but the hood has some really bad rust that will require welding and the tailgate has rusted all the way through and will need to be replaced. Floorboards have a slight bit of bubbling rust from accumulated water but they're salvageable. Pretty much everything you can think of will need to be refurbished. Some parts are good enough to be reused, and some are simply done for. It runs rough from vacuum leaks, it starts up like it was brand new, shifts no problem, goes into 4WD, but the only brakes it's got is the e-brake which is clinging on to dear life on my sloped driveway.

I will be vlogging my progress in addition to regular updates on this thread.

Due to the nature of my workspace (or lack thereof) and unwillingness to dump all my money into the truck in one go, this restoration will take place in 4 distinct but tentative phases.

Phase 1:

All of this phase will be done outdoors pretty much. I can bring parts in the garage for work but my roommates got so much junk that it's minimal at best. The truck needs to run and be driven on the road. I am moving in November and I don't even know if I will have more or less room at the next place to work on it, so it needs to move and be driven before then. I am still determined though, I've seen restorations online done in an apartment parking space.

-Rebuild and paint the fuel tank system (in progress). The guy who sold it to me had the fuel tank disconnected as he was concerned with rust.

-Paint the rear frame while the fuel tank is out.

-Get the brakes working. The master cylinder and brake booster seem to be working, it just has no fluid whatsoever.

-Prepare for passing California emissions. There's a lot of rotted and disconnected vacuum lines in there.

-Get wheels and road ready tires. Currently on original steel wheels with itty bitty roller tires.

-Strip and paint interior (in progress). I don't want that floor rust to get any worse.

-Acquire and install rear window OR acquire and install soft top.

-Sound deadener on the bottom and sending it to a shop for some new carpet or vinyl.

-Troubleshoot and repair any electrical needed for on-road use.

-Needs all mirrors.

Phase 2:

This phase is still kind of far off from being started and it will be a very long duration and VERY expensive. At this point, the truck should be at a point where it can be driven across town if need be. Hopefully in the middle of this phase I will get it reliable enough to be driven on road trips and camping next summer before an engine rebuild and exterior paint.

-New stock level suspension with aftermarket comfy shocks.

-Attack the rust on the exterior body. Top of roof, hood, passenger side.

-Replace tailgate.

-Replace all brake components.

-Complete front-end rebuild.

-Replace and flush entire cooling system.

-Rebuild engine with all new belt drive components and build new wire harness.

-Send to shop to paint exterior.

-Refurbish original wheels and put on new tires

-Paint rest of frame.

Phase 3:

This phase is reserved for the things that are "nice to have" which weren't required for reliable and comfortable driving in Phase 2 will probably end up here. Engine rebuild and exterior paint may end up here as well but that of course is tentative. Engine rebuild must happen at the same time as paint.

-Swap in reupholstered seats. Captain's chairs.

-Start piecing together the interior.

-Retrosound stereo with new speakers, wires.

-Put all the nice exterior bits back on like trim, badges, grille, new bumpers, etc.

-Transmission, transfer case, and drive shafts rebuild.

Phase 4:

Phase 4 is basically everything that I need my own garage/shop to complete. I will be buying a house in the near future and this stuff simply can't be done in my current living situation.

-Complete rear end rebuild.

-Frame-off painting. Paint body underside. Previous frame painting will have been completely temporary.

-Fiberglass top full restore.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, I'm ready to follow along, fellow Jim!

You say you think it has a BW T18 or 19.

T-18's were found on Windsor pattern bells.

T-19's pretty much on 460's and IDI's

You can tell.... If it has a driver's side PTO cover it's a T-19.

But neither of these (or the New Process, which had an aluminum lid, unlike Borg Warner) is an overdrive gearbox.

SROD or RUG were your only choices there...

There were no Mazda 5 speeds in '82.

[JimJam300]

Just as a heads-up on upcoming content:

I will be posting a vlog of the fuel tank rebuild as soon as all my parts come in. This video I plan to be more "artistic" and will include time-lapse sequences and following the progress of the repair. I hope for future videos to follow a similar formula as I get better at working and filming and showing the viewer precisely what's going on at the same time. Soon will also be a video of stripping and painting the floorpan.

For the fuel tank rebuild, I have a 32gal tank with skid plate. I peeked inside the tank with an inspection camera and found no rust. While removing the tank, the rubber fuel hose cracked. I stripped and painted the outside of the fuel tank with Rustoleum Bright Galvanized spray paint. Skid plate was done with Rustoleum Automotive Primer under Rustoleum Black Gloss spray paint. I also painted the top of the fuel sending unit.

I tested the fuel sending unit on resistance with my Fluke multimeter and determined that the float sensor seemed to be working properly. The fuel line on the sending unit was clogged with rust and the whole thing will probably need to be replaced soon but I need to get it running first. Sending unit strainer was busted so I ordered a replacement made for a 60s Mustang but it fit just fine. As for new parts, I am replacing the breather valve and line and gasket, sending unit lock ring and gasket, fuel filler hose, fuel line, fuel filter, and all the hardware.

[Rembrant]

Very cool project. It seems to be very intact for its age and condition...everything is there. The early 4spd OD 4x4 shifters always seem kinda funky to me with the 4x4 shifter on the opposite side (I believe Ray Cecil's 1982 Flareside is like this as well).

Can't wait to see more.

[Gary Lewis]

Very cool project. It seems to be very intact for its age and condition...everything is there. The early 4spd OD 4x4 shifters always seem kinda funky to me with the 4x4 shifter on the opposite side (I believe Ray Cecil's 1982 Flareside is like this as well).

Can't wait to see more.

Yes, this is a cool project! I'm along for the ride, and for encouragement awa helping if I can.

[JimJam300]

Ok, I'm ready to follow along, fellow Jim!

You say you think it has a BW T18 or 19.

T-18's were found on Windsor pattern bells.

T-19's pretty much on 460's and IDI's

You can tell.... If it has a driver's side PTO cover it's a T-19.

But neither of these (or the New Process, which had an aluminum lid, unlike Borg Warner) is an overdrive gearbox.

SROD or RUG were your only choices there...

There were no Mazda 5 speeds in '82.

I just took a peek under the truck after I read this. The transmission does look the same shape as the SROD and RUG but until I can clean the nameplate I can't know for certain which of the two. I was largely relying on the information I consumed on Wikipedia for deciding what I wanted to call the transmission in my truck lol.

I know the T18/T19 have good reputations for being stout, but how do the SROD and RUG stack up? The info I've found online so far points to it being a popular replacement unit for muscle cars.

[JimJam300]

Ok, I'm ready to follow along, fellow Jim!

You say you think it has a BW T18 or 19.

T-18's were found on Windsor pattern bells.

T-19's pretty much on 460's and IDI's

You can tell.... If it has a driver's side PTO cover it's a T-19.

But neither of these (or the New Process, which had an aluminum lid, unlike Borg Warner) is an overdrive gearbox.

SROD or RUG were your only choices there...

There were no Mazda 5 speeds in '82.

I just took a peek under the truck after I read this. The transmission does look the same shape as the SROD and RUG but until I can clean the nameplate I can't know for certain which of the two. I was largely relying on the information I consumed on Wikipedia for deciding what I wanted to call the transmission in my truck lol.

I know the T18/T19 have good reputations for being stout, but how do the SROD and RUG stack up? The info I've found online so far points to it being a popular replacement unit for muscle cars.

Anyone have a source for this hardware? It’s a lock washer for the fuel tank.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Ok, I'm ready to follow along, fellow Jim!

You say you think it has a BW T18 or 19.

T-18's were found on Windsor pattern bells.

T-19's pretty much on 460's and IDI's

You can tell.... If it has a driver's side PTO cover it's a T-19.

But neither of these (or the New Process, which had an aluminum lid, unlike Borg Warner) is an overdrive gearbox.

SROD or RUG were your only choices there...

There were no Mazda 5 speeds in '82.

I just took a peek under the truck after I read this. The transmission does look the same shape as the SROD and RUG but until I can clean the nameplate I can't know for certain which of the two. I was largely relying on the information I consumed on Wikipedia for deciding what I wanted to call the transmission in my truck lol.

I know the T18/T19 have good reputations for being stout, but how do the SROD and RUG stack up? The info I've found online so far points to it being a popular replacement unit for muscle cars.

If it's stock you can tell the gearbox from the door jamb sticker.

Sorry, I have no idea about lock washers on the fuel tank.

[Rembrant]

If it's stock you can tell the gearbox from the door jamb sticker.

He has the SROD transmission. The shifter location is one indicator, but the "Push" for reverse is the confirmation. See below.

http://www.f150hub.com/trans/t170-smod-srod-tod.html

The SROD has a single rail shift mechanism with the short curved shifter back close to the seat.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

If it's stock you can tell the gearbox from the door jamb sticker.

He has the SROD transmission. The shifter location is one indicator, but the "Push" for reverse is the confirmation. See below.

http://www.f150hub.com/trans/t170-smod-srod-tod.html

The SROD has a single rail shift mechanism with the short curved shifter back close to the seat.

All I saw was a picture of a gas tank??

I trust you know, Cory.

I just didn't have any clues, other than it wasn't an OD T-18! 😉