Ford F834 Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 Take a look at spacers for Jeeps. They have the proper 2 15/16 bolt spacing and a 1.75" bore. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-53000616?rrec=true These come in different thicknesses and with one or two vacuum taps. For $11 it's hard to go wrong. The only thing about this spacer is I am thinking it won’t cover the EGR port in the intake manifold. That’s why the Ford one has the “ear” on non-EGR applications. It’s not pretty, but on one of my engines I tapped the hole and put an Allen head pipe plug sealed with silicone. The factory spacer is the cleanest, but everyone wants one which drives up the price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 The only thing about this spacer is I am thinking it won’t cover the EGR port in the intake manifold. That’s why the Ford one has the “ear” on non-EGR applications. It’s not pretty, but on one of my engines I tapped the hole and put an Allen head pipe plug sealed with silicone. The factory spacer is the cleanest, but everyone wants one which drives up the price. That's exactly what I did when I got rid of the 460 EGR spacer with the 'ear' (I didn't use sealer, it's a pipe plug) I don't care too much about "pretty", function before form after all. If George can find a Canoodian spacer, all the better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 That's exactly what I did when I got rid of the 460 EGR spacer with the 'ear' (I didn't use sealer, it's a pipe plug) I don't care too much about "pretty", function before form after all. If George can find a Canoodian spacer, all the better. I used sealer because I cut my own threads and they were a bit rough... but it worked. Of course so does blocking off the end of the factory EGR spacer which is how my current 300 came to me... but it’s bulky and in the way. I believe the non-EGR spacer came on some trucks in the USA in the 70’s but regardless they are hard to come by. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted August 18, 2020 Author Share Posted August 18, 2020 I used sealer because I cut my own threads and they were a bit rough... but it worked. Of course so does blocking off the end of the factory EGR spacer which is how my current 300 came to me... but it’s bulky and in the way. I believe the non-EGR spacer came on some trucks in the USA in the 70’s but regardless they are hard to come by. thats how i am running it right now, but it is cracked and i siliconed it. I know silicone will not hold up but i had to do what i had to do to get it running to progress. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 18, 2020 Share Posted August 18, 2020 I used sealer because I cut my own threads and they were a bit rough... but it worked. Of course so does blocking off the end of the factory EGR spacer which is how my current 300 came to me... but it’s bulky and in the way. I believe the non-EGR spacer came on some trucks in the USA in the 70’s but regardless they are hard to come by. You are correct on that. I had a 1977 F150 with the 300 engine and a C4 transmission. Another "lab rat" (what we called ourselves in Laboratory Services at NNS) had a 1977 F100, essentially the twin to mine. His had the full 1977 light duty emission system, EGR included and his EGR came through a passage in the top of the intake into the EGR spacer. Mine had the spacer with a blocking tab covering the port in the heat stove area so the intakes were the same, just mine had the passage covered by the spacer and his had the EGR valve there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 Take a look at spacers for Jeeps. They have the proper 2 15/16 bolt spacing and a 1.75" bore. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-53000616?rrec=true These come in different thicknesses and with one or two vacuum taps. For $11 it's hard to go wrong. I got my new carburetor spacer in today, i ended up taking jim's advice and get this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-53000616?rrec=true My question is. Under the original spacer there is a 3rd hole. i'm guessing the 3rd hole is for the egr valve. what should i do about it as far as blocking it off, any ideas? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 I got my new carburetor spacer in today, i ended up taking jim's advice and get this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cwa-53000616?rrec=true My question is. Under the original spacer there is a 3rd hole. i'm guessing the 3rd hole is for the egr valve. what should i do about it as far as blocking it off, any ideas? While my truck is a V-8, I simply used a pipe thread tap and put the recessed socket type of pipe plug in it. Do you already have your PCV and brake booster hooked up? Because you could use it if you need it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 While my truck is a V-8, I simply used a pipe thread tap and put the recessed socket type of pipe plug in it. Do you already have your PCV and brake booster hooked up? Because you could use it if you need it. Yea thats all hooked up. what i'm talking about, is under the spacer on the manifold, there is a 3rd hole and it does not seam like this spacer will cover the hole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted October 23, 2020 Author Share Posted October 23, 2020 Yea thats all hooked up. what i'm talking about, is under the spacer on the manifold, there is a 3rd hole and it does not seam like this spacer will cover the hole I guess i'm going to have to see tomorrow when i take it off, but it looks to me like the hole will be exposed, if thats the case i think i may be able to put a nut and bolt in the hole to block it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted October 23, 2020 Share Posted October 23, 2020 I guess i'm going to have to see tomorrow when i take it off, but it looks to me like the hole will be exposed, if thats the case i think i may be able to put a nut and bolt in the hole to block it Right.... there's a hole in the edge of the intake manifold neck. While I don't have an I-6, I do have a life sized pdf of the EGR spacer gasket. I'm just saying, in my case I tapped the hole and put a flush plug so it wouldn't interfere with my new non-EGR spacer sealing flat on the manifold. I'm sure you've got this! I thought you were looking for best practices, or the simplest method of dealing with the potential leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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