ArdWrknTrk Posted August 16, 2020 Share Posted August 16, 2020 yea i looked into how to recurve a distributor, no way i'm fooling with that. Honestly, i wish i could put a duraspark distributor in it with a regular yf carb and get rid of all of he stuff, but a duraspark dist wont fit so thts out the window too. I'm going to look around and see what i can find for compression fittings, thing is is i really dont know what size it is. I think i'm just going to take it off and see if my friend at the machine shop can do anything Really you could just back off a degree or two of initial timing. I know I have my truck on the ragged edge with 89 octane. Some stations it's ok, others it knocks. Why do you say you can't fit a DuraSpark distributor? Plenty of 300's came with DSII. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted August 16, 2020 Author Share Posted August 16, 2020 Really you could just back off a degree or two of initial timing. I know I have my truck on the ragged edge with 89 octane. Some stations it's ok, others it knocks. Why do you say you can't fit a DuraSpark distributor? Plenty of 300's came with DSII. now i really have to wonder, i went through the emissions book and i remember taking a bunch of stuff off that truck years ago. i talked to nick and in fact, i removed the solenoid that controls the egr and got rid of the vacuum lines and the solenoid. in effect we have been running with out it for years. the truck had the exhaust leak at the manifolds for a while and now am wondering if that is what it's problem was all along. since the new manifolds went on, granted we arent able to connect the pipe, but the egr wasnt working anyway and with the exhaust leak gone, it runs very well so now i dont really know what to think Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
85lebaront2 Posted August 16, 2020 Share Posted August 16, 2020 now i really have to wonder, i went through the emissions book and i remember taking a bunch of stuff off that truck years ago. i talked to nick and in fact, i removed the solenoid that controls the egr and got rid of the vacuum lines and the solenoid. in effect we have been running with out it for years. the truck had the exhaust leak at the manifolds for a while and now am wondering if that is what it's problem was all along. since the new manifolds went on, granted we arent able to connect the pipe, but the egr wasnt working anyway and with the exhaust leak gone, it runs very well so now i dont really know what to think What I remember on the EGR systems, there were three different styles I have seen on carbureted 300s. On has the passage as an internal one that consists of a hole in top face of the intake next to the carburetor that connects into the adapter under the carburetor and the EGR valve is bolted to it so all the passages are internal. Second is similar, but had a long curved pipe that connected to an EGR valve with an inverted flare fitting in the actual body of the EGR valve. The third was like the second but the tube went to the adapter and from there out to the EGR valve. Truck being originally military, probably had California emissions. Every commercial vehicle I ran into in the Marines was delivered with a California emission system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 16, 2020 Share Posted August 16, 2020 now i really have to wonder, i went through the emissions book and i remember taking a bunch of stuff off that truck years ago. i talked to nick and in fact, i removed the solenoid that controls the egr and got rid of the vacuum lines and the solenoid. in effect we have been running with out it for years. the truck had the exhaust leak at the manifolds for a while and now am wondering if that is what it's problem was all along. since the new manifolds went on, granted we arent able to connect the pipe, but the egr wasnt working anyway and with the exhaust leak gone, it runs very well so now i dont really know what to think Well heck, if it's been disabled all this time I don't see a reason to mess with success. Maybe just put a plug in it and leave it. David came up with the pre-EGR carb adapter a while back for someone else. While that listing may be gone now, the part number sure isn't, and eBay is pretty good about matching results. I forget the user/thread, but the OP pictured the EGR adapter painted blue with a crude block-off plate in place of the EGR valve itself. HTH, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted August 16, 2020 Share Posted August 16, 2020 Well heck, if it's been disabled all this time I don't see a reason to mess with success. Maybe just put a plug in it and leave it. David came up with the pre-EGR carb adapter a while back for someone else. While that listing may be gone now, the part number sure isn't, and eBay is pretty good about matching results. I forget the user/thread, but the OP pictured the EGR adapter painted blue with a crude block-off plate in place of the EGR valve itself. HTH, It's this tube that run into the bottom of the EGR plate IIRC. If you don't need the EGR and it sounds like it has not been working for a bit pull the adaptors out and use pipe plugs in the holes. I don't know if you have to do the EGR plate as mine is blocked inside with a small freeze plug. I did have to use the pipe plug in the exh. manifold of the EFI's that I run. As for timing once you have the EGR ports plugged go for a ride and give a listen for "marbles" in the motor. Mine only did it when at a steady speed and gave it a little more gas for a hill. I don't know where my timing is at as it starts and runs so I did not want to mess with it. Now the 300s have an adjustable vacuum can, at least mine was. A small allen wrench (3/32"?) fit in the vacuum nipple. Think I turned it 1/4 turn CC and went for a drive, if it made marble noise I turned it more. I also tried 2 tanks full of high test and that stopped the noise so I knew it was a timing issue. I have gone back to regular and have not heard the noise. I think because the truck did not leave the yard of the PO and now with me driving the truck it cleared out any junk it the compression chambers. I also had an issue with "milk shake" on the dip stick & oil fill cap and that was even with almost 4000 miles on it. I checked the oil the other day and no milk shake but I also removed & plugged the vacuum line to the charcoal canisters as a test to see if the PCV, vacuum is pulled off the top nipple, was the cause - more testing needed. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted August 16, 2020 Author Share Posted August 16, 2020 Well heck, if it's been disabled all this time I don't see a reason to mess with success. Maybe just put a plug in it and leave it. David came up with the pre-EGR carb adapter a while back for someone else. While that listing may be gone now, the part number sure isn't, and eBay is pretty good about matching results. I forget the user/thread, but the OP pictured the EGR adapter painted blue with a crude block-off plate in place of the EGR valve itself. HTH, Jim; I'm going to cut the pipe off today and get it out of my way. to be honest i wish i could just mount the carb directly to the manifold and eliminate all that mess altogether. After nick and i talked and realized the egr was gone already so to speak. I remember the truck wasn't running so good, it was stumbling and acting strange in intervals. I checked the carb and it was ok, and i noticed all the neoprene vacuum hoses and all the vacuum solenoids were broken and cracked so i tore everything out and re-did all the vacuum. At the time, i thought the egr system on that truck was just like the egr in the 79 ranchero and i pretty much streamlined the vacuum and set it up similiar to the the way the rancehro was. By doing all this the motor smoothed out and actually got 2 more mph. Brutus always got 11 mpg no matter what, he started getting around 13 and had noticably more power. he had a little more jump shout off the line which given my drive train, you take wht you can get. Brutus is slow, but with the little extra jump shout, he actually did a burn out in the driveway. Since i started this conversation with you i realized more things. You know them big fords dont like 87 octane gas, Brutus never did, you always had to put at least 89, and that was pushing it. He would pur with 93. Since i did all that stuff years ago, we have used 87 with no issues from time to time. So like i said earlier, i really dont know what to think anymore. I'm going to finish up with the intake and exhaust today and cut the pipe and block it off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted August 16, 2020 Share Posted August 16, 2020 It's this tube that run into the bottom of the EGR plate IIRC. If you don't need the EGR and it sounds like it has not been working for a bit pull the adaptors out and use pipe plugs in the holes. I don't know if you have to do the EGR plate as mine is blocked inside with a small freeze plug. I did have to use the pipe plug in the exh. manifold of the EFI's that I run. As for timing once you have the EGR ports plugged go for a ride and give a listen for "marbles" in the motor. Mine only did it when at a steady speed and gave it a little more gas for a hill. I don't know where my timing is at as it starts and runs so I did not want to mess with it. Now the 300s have an adjustable vacuum can, at least mine was. A small allen wrench (3/32"?) fit in the vacuum nipple. Think I turned it 1/4 turn CC and went for a drive, if it made marble noise I turned it more. I also tried 2 tanks full of high test and that stopped the noise so I knew it was a timing issue. I have gone back to regular and have not heard the noise. I think because the truck did not leave the yard of the PO and now with me driving the truck it cleared out any junk it the compression chambers. I also had an issue with "milk shake" on the dip stick & oil fill cap and that was even with almost 4000 miles on it. I checked the oil the other day and no milk shake but I also removed & plugged the vacuum line to the charcoal canisters as a test to see if the PCV, vacuum is pulled off the top nipple, was the cause - more testing needed. Dave ---- It looks like I did not use a pipe plug in the EGR plate but it is blocked inside with the freeze plug. But I did remove the adaptor on the EFI manifold and used the pipe plug. I used an impac gun and 6 point socket to remove the adaptor. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted August 16, 2020 Author Share Posted August 16, 2020 Jim; I'm going to cut the pipe off today and get it out of my way. to be honest i wish i could just mount the carb directly to the manifold and eliminate all that mess altogether. After nick and i talked and realized the egr was gone already so to speak. I remember the truck wasn't running so good, it was stumbling and acting strange in intervals. I checked the carb and it was ok, and i noticed all the neoprene vacuum hoses and all the vacuum solenoids were broken and cracked so i tore everything out and re-did all the vacuum. At the time, i thought the egr system on that truck was just like the egr in the 79 ranchero and i pretty much streamlined the vacuum and set it up similiar to the the way the rancehro was. By doing all this the motor smoothed out and actually got 2 more mph. Brutus always got 11 mpg no matter what, he started getting around 13 and had noticably more power. he had a little more jump shout off the line which given my drive train, you take wht you can get. Brutus is slow, but with the little extra jump shout, he actually did a burn out in the driveway. Since i started this conversation with you i realized more things. You know them big fords dont like 87 octane gas, Brutus never did, you always had to put at least 89, and that was pushing it. He would pur with 93. Since i did all that stuff years ago, we have used 87 with no issues from time to time. So like i said earlier, i really dont know what to think anymore. I'm going to finish up with the intake and exhaust today and cut the pipe and block it off. Dave. i'm going to do the same thing. going to autozone and getting a freeze plug and blocking off the plate and will pull the egr off and block that as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
86 12 Brutus Posted August 16, 2020 Author Share Posted August 16, 2020 Dave. i'm going to do the same thing. going to autozone and getting a freeze plug and blocking off the plate and will pull the egr off and block that as well. my new manifold came with a plug, so i'm good there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted August 16, 2020 Share Posted August 16, 2020 my new manifold came with a plug, so i'm good there Cool I did the freeze plug because I thought maybe coolant could make its way up to that point. Because I use the EFI manifolds I run a water heat plate where the 2 manifolds bolted together. So where the exh gases would be in the intake manifold I now have coolant. Maybe I did not need to but better safe than sorry right LOL You need to leave the EGR plate as a spacer to linkage and etc. line up. I also left the valve bolted to the plate because I did not know at the time if I had to go thru an inspection and figured I could just hook a vacuum line to it to look like it worked But I don't have to. Others have cut the plate to remove the EGR valve but left the "spacer" and filled the holes with JB Weld to finish it off. Many ways to go about the EGR issue LOL Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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