Alternator shim

[Rusty_S85]

Yes, the red and orange wires can just get taped up out of the way, in case you decide to convert to a voltmeter in the future.

You need to take the fat yellow wire going to the ignition switch and connect it to your new fuse.

I'm not familiar with the Painless kit. I've always just cobbled together a few plugs and cables.

I don't see any reason to spend more than $30 all in, for what is a bunch of off the shelf parts.

It's mid summer.

I don't think you need the choke heater at all.

If you're changing out the carburetor in a week, I just wouldn't bother hooking it up to the carb.

Maybe back the cap off a notch or two.

You have the red hose supplying heat anyhow.

The old charge wire can be taped up? I was under the impression it had to be hooked up as all power flowed through that one wire to the whole truck.

If it could be simply left off that would save me some trouble as I dont even think my ammeter even works but in the off chance it does, I hate for it to constantly show discharge all the time.

[ArdWrknTrk]

The old charge wire can be taped up? I was under the impression it had to be hooked up as all power flowed through that one wire to the whole truck.

If it could be simply left off that would save me some trouble as I dont even think my ammeter even works but in the off chance it does, I hate for it to constantly show discharge all the time.

Not the charge wire, the ammeter wire and shunt.

That's why you go around the shunt, directly to the yellow main power wire.

I forget the wire number... (30???) and the splice # where it joins shunt and ammeter, but it is that simple.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not the charge wire, the ammeter wire and shunt.

That's why you go around the shunt, directly to the yellow main power wire.

I forget the wire number... (30???) and the splice # where it joins shunt and ammeter, but it is that simple.

Ok, I'm looking at this and it seems that you have to make it up yourself.

There's a piece of cable, a regulator plug, a stator plug, a Lillelfuse fuse holder, some lugs and butt crimps.

Edit: You'd think they'd at least give you some insulated lugs, or some heavy red heat shrink to insulate the charge cable lugs at the fuse and relay...

I'm not sure what that black/orange wire with the eyelet is.

With a 2G, you have two bk/o 10Ga. wires coming from the fire plug, that splice to a single fusible link.

That's where the problems start.

If the fusible link in that setup goes out the alternator immediately goes full field, because the sense wire is on the other side, and no matter how many volts the alternator is pushing the regulator doesn't know it.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Not the charge wire, the ammeter wire and shunt.

That's why you go around the shunt, directly to the yellow main power wire.

I forget the wire number... (30???) and the splice # where it joins shunt and ammeter, but it is that simple.

Ok Rusty, wire 37 at splice 202.

http://www.garysgaragemahal.com/3g-conversion.html

[FrazerJames]

Ok, I'm looking at this and it seems that you have to make it up yourself.

There's a piece of cable, a regulator plug, a stator plug, a Lillelfuse fuse holder, some lugs and butt crimps.

Edit: You'd think they'd at least give you some insulated lugs, or some heavy red heat shrink to insulate the charge cable lugs at the fuse and relay...

I'm not sure what that black/orange wire with the eyelet is.

With a 2G, you have two bk/o 10Ga. wires coming from the fire plug, that splice to a single fusible link.

That's where the problems start.

If the fusible link in that setup goes out the alternator immediately goes full field, because the sense wire is on the other side, and no matter how many volts the alternator is pushing the regulator doesn't know it.

They do give you that heat shrink for all connectors. I’m not sure why it’s not showing in that pic. The eyelet wire is for the alternator ground. I can post the install instructions they sent with the kit. I think the one I have is specific for 1g to 3G set up.

As far as going around the shunt - where is the shunt? I’ve googled the hell out of it and I’m just not finding it. I can’t follow the link to the 3G upgrade page to look at wire 37. I know there’s some hosting issues Gary is working on, but that page has only worked for me a few times - even after resetting my internet.

[Gary Lewis]

They do give you that heat shrink for all connectors. I’m not sure why it’s not showing in that pic. The eyelet wire is for the alternator ground. I can post the install instructions they sent with the kit. I think the one I have is specific for 1g to 3G set up.

As far as going around the shunt - where is the shunt? I’ve googled the hell out of it and I’m just not finding it. I can’t follow the link to the 3G upgrade page to look at wire 37. I know there’s some hosting issues Gary is working on, but that page has only worked for me a few times - even after resetting my internet.

You can't get to the Documentation/Electrical/3G Upgrade page??????????? I'm not working on anything that will fix that as the problems are in the forum's host and not the documenation's host. (Too much detail?) Are you running an ad blocker? Sometimes those do strange things.

Here's the page that shows the shunt. And you are looking for the splices - S203 and S202. S203 is very near the starter relay and S202 is closer to the heater motor, both in the black/orange wire. In Big Blue you could tell what was the shunt and what was normal wire as the shunt's insulation was different. But, it is the wire between those two splices, and they are fairly easy to find as there are three and four wires, respectively, coming out of them.

[ArdWrknTrk]

They do give you that heat shrink for all connectors. I’m not sure why it’s not showing in that pic. The eyelet wire is for the alternator ground. I can post the install instructions they sent with the kit. I think the one I have is specific for 1g to 3G set up.

As far as going around the shunt - where is the shunt? I’ve googled the hell out of it and I’m just not finding it. I can’t follow the link to the 3G upgrade page to look at wire 37. I know there’s some hosting issues Gary is working on, but that page has only worked for me a few times - even after resetting my internet.

I'm sorry, I don't have the kit in front of me, just the picture from Painless. 🤷

Ford kept their wire colors the same for many years and across all models.

Black with an orange stripe is always alternator power to me.

Why Painless wouldn't use straight black for ground is beyond me.

I don't even have an alternator ground wire, but the tapped hole is there on the back, and better grounds are always a good idea.

[FuzzFace2]

I'm sorry, I don't have the kit in front of me, just the picture from Painless. 🤷

Ford kept their wire colors the same for many years and across all models.

Black with an orange stripe is always alternator power to me.

Why Painless wouldn't use straight black for ground is beyond me.

I don't even have an alternator ground wire, but the tapped hole is there on the back, and better grounds are always a good idea.

On low voltage ground is white, just look at trailer wiring as ground is white.

But I do get what you are saying as all cars & trucks ground has always been black.

Dave ----

[ArdWrknTrk]

You can't get to the Documentation/Electrical/3G Upgrade page??????????? I'm not working on anything that will fix that as the problems are in the forum's host and not the documenation's host. (Too much detail?) Are you running an ad blocker? Sometimes those do strange things.

Here's the page that shows the shunt. And you are looking for the splices - S203 and S202. S203 is very near the starter relay and S202 is closer to the heater motor, both in the black/orange wire. In Big Blue you could tell what was the shunt and what was normal wire as the shunt's insulation was different. But, it is the wire between those two splices, and they are fairly easy to find as there are three and four wires, respectively, coming out of them.

[Gary Lewis]

Gary, you should put the fuseholder in your 'new charge cable'

Me, I'd cut out S202.

Take 654 from your X to the regulator plug, disconnect fuse link J entirely and connect 37 to either where J was or to the fuseholder that should be shown in your blue line.

But, that's me.....

Jim - You are right, several changes need to be made to that. Remind me later as I'm headed out the door to go to church. And then working on BB, then mowing the yard, then.....

But seriously, several changes are needed.