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New/Repro YF carburetor for the 300 six


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Yes, filtered air that goes down to the manifold and back to the choke.

Okay, this is making sense... although I believe it is usually missing parts on the engines I’ve seen. I’m vaguely remembering a thin tube with an orange silicone hose on the manifold set from the 4x4 donor.

Hey Jonathan,

Is there a manual choke kit that works well with these carbs? If yes, do you have one to recommend?

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There seem to be many manual choke versions of YF clones available.

Why would you add a 'kit' when you could buy it that way from the beginning?

lol, because I didn't know they were available. I was curious as Jonathan seems to be pretty happy with this one, so I didn't go looking for a manual version.

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There seem to be many manual choke versions of YF clones available.

Why would you add a 'kit' when you could buy it that way from the beginning?

lol, because I didn't know they were available. I was curious as Jonathan seems to be pretty happy with this one, so I didn't go looking for a manual version.

I really hope this pans out for Jonathan.

Looking forward to the longer term driveability report.

Still confused on the 'port to nowhere'

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Hey Jonathan,

Is there a manual choke kit that works well with these carbs? If yes, do you have one to recommend?

I have never seen a manual choke YF (that came that way from factory). I have always used the universal doorman or equivalent Help! section conversion kit that puts a cable lever on a round plastic cap that mounts in place of the automatic choke on any carburetor. It works fine, my only gripe is it has very short cable throw compared to older carbs that were designed as manual choke. On the 300, the choke housing sits up in a cavity of the air cleaner (unless you have the teardrop style). Be aware that the cable end can stab the under side of the air cleaner housing if it is left over-long. Also, the bracket they provide to anchor the cable end cannot sit too high or the air cleaner will not sit all the way down. It takes a bit of messing about to get the cable mounted in a place that will work.

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I have never seen a manual choke YF (that came that way from factory). I have always used the universal doorman or equivalent Help! section conversion kit that puts a cable lever on a round plastic cap that mounts in place of the automatic choke on any carburetor. It works fine, my only gripe is it has very short cable throw compared to older carbs that were designed as manual choke. On the 300, the choke housing sits up in a cavity of the air cleaner (unless you have the teardrop style). Be aware that the cable end can stab the under side of the air cleaner housing if it is left over-long. Also, the bracket they provide to anchor the cable end cannot sit too high or the air cleaner will not sit all the way down. It takes a bit of messing about to get the cable mounted in a place that will work.

The "port to nowhere" is where the red silicone vacuum hose connected which supplied filtered make-up air for the tube which passes through the exhaust manifold and then through the metal tube, covered with a white insulating sleeve, which connects to the choke housing. The carburetor's internal vacuum leak, as designed, pulls heated air to the choke housing, thereby exposing the bimetallic spring to heated air, allowing the spring to do its thing and open the choke as the engine comes to operating temperature.

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The "port to nowhere" is where the red silicone vacuum hose connected which supplied filtered make-up air for the tube which passes through the exhaust manifold and then through the metal tube, covered with a white insulating sleeve, which connects to the choke housing. The carburetor's internal vacuum leak, as designed, pulls heated air to the choke housing, thereby exposing the bimetallic spring to heated air, allowing the spring to do its thing and open the choke as the engine comes to operating temperature.

I'm talking about Jonathan's 'timed' vacuum port that he can't get anything through.

But then, if manifold vacuum is working for him, great! :nabble_anim_jump:

Still doesn't explain the reason for a nipple that is blocked off.

Unless this same assembly is used for another variant.

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Yes, filtered air that goes down to the manifold and back to the choke.

Okay, this is making sense... although I believe it is usually missing parts on the engines I’ve seen. I’m vaguely remembering a thin tube with an orange silicone hose on the manifold set from the 4x4 donor.

Filtered air for the choke

20180916_170802.jpg.b7ecbf70d84c360538240f8508b09d16.jpg

it then goes to the manifold to get heated

20180916_170816.jpg.b2408913ceb71f3e38a64f366f64b7b1.jpg

Then to the choke housing

20180916_170737.jpg.97205104ba47b5d3fcc477f4bafe5ffb.jpg

Dave ----

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I have never seen a manual choke YF (that came that way from factory). I have always used the universal doorman or equivalent Help! section conversion kit that puts a cable lever on a round plastic cap that mounts in place of the automatic choke on any carburetor. It works fine, my only gripe is it has very short cable throw compared to older carbs that were designed as manual choke. On the 300, the choke housing sits up in a cavity of the air cleaner (unless you have the teardrop style). Be aware that the cable end can stab the under side of the air cleaner housing if it is left over-long. Also, the bracket they provide to anchor the cable end cannot sit too high or the air cleaner will not sit all the way down. It takes a bit of messing about to get the cable mounted in a place that will work.

Well folks... I don’t know what to say...

I got in the truck today and it didn’t want to start. After lots of cranking and throttle it finally lit, but was rough as guts. It wouldn’t idle. It acted like the choke was closed, or a MASSIVE vacuum leak, or like 10* out of time. I checked everything over (several times) and could not find anything.

I did a simple substitution and put the old carb back on. It ran just as it did before the carb swap. I swapped the new cab back on, and again it wouldn’t run worth a darn. Something happened. Either my Tom foolery trying to diagnose the blocked port damaged it (carb cleaner?) or something internally is stuck or failed. I think I’m going to contact the seller about a return.

I compared the new carb with a couple of my old ones. The vacuum ports on the original units correspond to small pin holes in the base plate. The new one does not have any such ports.

6C72C1B1-0C54-4C5C-8E85-429F4E1A2A58.jpeg.93e81fe6948e0c511deea85b0a21f56d.jpeg

F6264B08-0ECD-430C-9EE5-F5B82C2748F2.jpeg.c793f359a68b8297f415f9d2c947d7af.jpeg

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