Ford F834 Posted November 17, 2020 Author Share Posted November 17, 2020 Thanks for the feedback Jonathan. I just received my Chinese YF copy carb from Amazon yesterday. Seems like a nice enough piece to look at, and the packaging was very good. Came with 3 gaskets that I haven't even looked at yet. I ordered the Dorman manual choke from RockAuto (for $9 bucks) with some other stuff last night. I'm probably a month or more away from trying to start it, but I put a bit of a push on ordering parts last week and this week since deliveries leading up to Christmas will be crazier this year compared to others. Good idea! Glad you received yours, and it’s sounds identical to what I got. Three gaskets, but only one had the right spacing for the intake studs. It was packaged very well with model-specific foam shapes. I look forward to hearing how it works for you 🙂 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Good idea! Glad you received yours, and it’s sounds identical to what I got. Three gaskets, but only one had the right spacing for the intake studs. It was packaged very well with model-specific foam shapes. I look forward to hearing how it works for you 🙂 Just following up this thread since I finally fired up this engine today. I bought this carb on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/OCPTY-Carburetor-Carter-240-250-300-BARREL/dp/B084YWG1K2 It ran great right out of the box. I plugged the hot air port, and in the video below have the choke tied wide open. I didn't even touch the idle...nothing, it just ran. After a few minutes it would start instantly, and idle at 600 RPM according to the factory tach. Pretty happy with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted January 16, 2021 Share Posted January 16, 2021 Just following up this thread since I finally fired up this engine today. I bought this carb on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/OCPTY-Carburetor-Carter-240-250-300-BARREL/dp/B084YWG1K2 It ran great right out of the box. I plugged the hot air port, and in the video below have the choke tied wide open. I didn't even touch the idle...nothing, it just ran. After a few minutes it would start instantly, and idle at 600 RPM according to the factory tach. Pretty happy with it. That's great, Cory! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1986F150Six Posted January 18, 2021 Share Posted January 18, 2021 That's great, Cory! Sounds good, Cory! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 16, 2021 Share Posted March 16, 2021 Sounds good, Cory! Anyone else get one of the 2 carbs used here? It looks like I will be going with the ECCPP carb to replace the one on my truck as it is not working right at high way speeds. I see Jonathan & Cory both use manual choke. I can hook up the heat tube as I had to make one to work with the EFI exh. manifolds but have a question? What if I was to take the electric part from my old carb and install it on this new carb do you think it would work like the factory wanted it to? Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 Anyone else get one of the 2 carbs used here? It looks like I will be going with the ECCPP carb to replace the one on my truck as it is not working right at high way speeds. I see Jonathan & Cory both use manual choke. I can hook up the heat tube as I had to make one to work with the EFI exh. manifolds but have a question? What if I was to take the electric part from my old carb and install it on this new carb do you think it would work like the factory wanted it to? Dave ---- Choke caps are pretty much interchangeable Dave. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ford F834 Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 Anyone else get one of the 2 carbs used here? It looks like I will be going with the ECCPP carb to replace the one on my truck as it is not working right at high way speeds. I see Jonathan & Cory both use manual choke. I can hook up the heat tube as I had to make one to work with the EFI exh. manifolds but have a question? What if I was to take the electric part from my old carb and install it on this new carb do you think it would work like the factory wanted it to? Dave ---- Mine came with a plastic cap over the choke lever, but there was no bi-metal spring or electric hook up. There has to be choke control, either manual or electric, and the supplied cap does neither. I assume this is just to protect the lever and mock up the retaining hardware, and you are supposed to install the existing control mechanism from your truck, whichever you have. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 Mine came with a plastic cap over the choke lever, but there was no bi-metal spring or electric hook up. There has to be choke control, either manual or electric, and the supplied cap does neither. I assume this is just to protect the lever and mock up the retaining hardware, and you are supposed to install the existing control mechanism from your truck, whichever you have. I imagine that eliminating the choke mechanism is a way of making these replacement carbs more universal. And probably saves another $5 at the retail end. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 Mine came with a plastic cap over the choke lever, but there was no bi-metal spring or electric hook up. There has to be choke control, either manual or electric, and the supplied cap does neither. I assume this is just to protect the lever and mock up the retaining hardware, and you are supposed to install the existing control mechanism from your truck, whichever you have. I figured if I did not get any answers I would pull the cap and I would have seen it was gutted. So I will swap my electric part onto the new carb. UPS has the carb showing up around the 25th Thanks Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rembrant Posted May 23, 2021 Share Posted May 23, 2021 Mine came with a plastic cap over the choke lever, but there was no bi-metal spring or electric hook up. There has to be choke control, either manual or electric, and the supplied cap does neither. I assume this is just to protect the lever and mock up the retaining hardware, and you are supposed to install the existing control mechanism from your truck, whichever you have. I figured if I did not get any answers I would pull the cap and I would have seen it was gutted. So I will swap my electric part onto the new carb. UPS has the carb showing up around the 25th Thanks Dave ---- So this Amazon YF has been working well for the short little bursts that I've actually been able to run the truck. However, now that I'm able to drive the truck a little bit I am having a problem. It works great when it is cold (choke is tied wide open), but once the engine gets up to temperature the carb starts leaking terribly. I took it all apart thinking the float was stuck, or needle valve stuck, but it was all clean as a whistle. Put it all back together, and again it ran just fine while it was cold...but once it warmed up it started leaking terribly again. This time when I pulled back up to my garage, it was leaking and I could hear the gas sizzling...on the intake and probably some of the exhaust manifold. It got me thinking though...am I overheating the carb somehow? There is an valve in the exhaust manifold for heating the intake manifold...and I thought I tied it shut, but maybe I tied it wide open? Any thoughts from the experts? If it was a float or needle valve or fuel pressure issue, it wouldn't matter if it was warmed up or not, would it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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