Plastic repair advice (interior)

[Ford F834]

I know there have been some really good discussions around plastic repair products related to fixing broken radio bezel tabs etc., However, these have been instances where missing plastic was built up and replaced.

The repair job I am wanting to do right now is to re-attach a broken tab from a plastic door map pocket. It is the brittle (ABS?) type of material. My initial thought was just to reach for the 2-part clear epoxy, but if there is a better option I am all ears.

These interior map pockets are not particularly common, and are often broken because they are so brittle. Mine are in great shape minus the one tab on the driver side. They are also a one-year-wonder because the truck was a 1984 which is the first year for Canyon Red, and the last year for plastic map pockets (went to carpet for 85/86). I purchased a beautiful Canyon Red interior for my crew cab, but the carpet map pockets are sagging and warping. I don't like how fragile these are, but they will actually look more correct with my 82/83 XLS theme. This is the truck they came from:

[ArdWrknTrk]

To follow up on your thoughts about epoxy

.

My instinct would be West System G-flex with a fiberglass bandaid on the back to add tensile strength to the repair.

This epoxy is not fast drying, and will allow you the time to wet out the fiberglass and remove any excess.

If you are looking for an epoxy in a syringe, Devcon 22045 plastic welder hardens quickly and smells like it has some acrylic monomer in it.

Seems to get a good 'bite' on interior plastic in my limited experience with it.

[Gary Lewis]

To follow up on your thoughts about epoxy

.

My instinct would be West System G-flex with a fiberglass bandaid on the back to add tensile strength to the repair.

This epoxy is not fast drying, and will allow you the time to wet out the fiberglass and remove any excess.

If you are looking for an epoxy in a syringe, Devcon 22045 plastic welder hardens quickly and smells like it has some acrylic monomer in it.

Seems to get a good 'bite' on interior plastic in my limited experience with it.

Those may actually be PVC. In any event, I was able to glue mine with PVC glue. But I think Jim's suggestion is even better.

Another thing that I did was to embed a piece of metal, maybe 3/8" x 1/8" x the length of the pocket, in the top lip of the pocket - right where the pocket will hit people's legs. That's where one of mine was broken and I could see that it wasn't going to survive without some reinforcement.

So I laid that strip in on edge, meaning flat horizontally, so it would be less likely to bend and glued it in. Not sure what I used, but I do have some G-flex on Jim's recommendation, so may have used that. In any event it really stiffened up the top of the pocket but can't be see since it is below the lip.

[Ford F834]

Those may actually be PVC. In any event, I was able to glue mine with PVC glue. But I think Jim's suggestion is even better.

Another thing that I did was to embed a piece of metal, maybe 3/8" x 1/8" x the length of the pocket, in the top lip of the pocket - right where the pocket will hit people's legs. That's where one of mine was broken and I could see that it wasn't going to survive without some reinforcement.

So I laid that strip in on edge, meaning flat horizontally, so it would be less likely to bend and glued it in. Not sure what I used, but I do have some G-flex on Jim's recommendation, so may have used that. In any event it really stiffened up the top of the pocket but can't be see since it is below the lip.

Excellent tip Gary! I will definitely be doing that. I am not rough on my trucks but I do use them, and stuff is bound to happen. Hopefully that will prevent heartbreak down the road.

[Gary Lewis]

Excellent tip Gary! I will definitely be doing that. I am not rough on my trucks but I do use them, and stuff is bound to happen. Hopefully that will prevent heartbreak down the road.

I envision another how-to in the making.

By the way, I think there's a lip on the top of the whole pocket where your break is. I'd glue a splint across the break or, as Jim suggested, use fiberglass cloth.

[PetesPonies]

Easy repair. No epoxy, won't hold up. YOu need two things, a soldering iron and some ABS

plumbing cement. I have done a lot of repairs with ABS. Even things that get painted body color and are exterior. So trust me on this. The ABS cement can be bought at Lowes or such. Because it is a cement, it will dissolve and weld the ABS plastic. It can also be used as a filler, for that reason and also that it contains some ABS in it. You start with the soldering iron, melting ( welding ) the plastic back together. ABS is a thermoplastic, so it melts with heat. Since you have a grain on the front, you want to weld from the rear. Try not to go through, but you do want to melt it back together. Then once securely attached, cover the area and some surrounding area, with the cement. Let it dry a couple hours. You will be amazed at what you can fix this way when dealing with ABS.

[Ford F834]

Easy repair. No epoxy, won't hold up. YOu need two things, a soldering iron and some ABS

plumbing cement. I have done a lot of repairs with ABS. Even things that get painted body color and are exterior. So trust me on this. The ABS cement can be bought at Lowes or such. Because it is a cement, it will dissolve and weld the ABS plastic. It can also be used as a filler, for that reason and also that it contains some ABS in it. You start with the soldering iron, melting ( welding ) the plastic back together. ABS is a thermoplastic, so it melts with heat. Since you have a grain on the front, you want to weld from the rear. Try not to go through, but you do want to melt it back together. Then once securely attached, cover the area and some surrounding area, with the cement. Let it dry a couple hours. You will be amazed at what you can fix this way when dealing with ABS.

Thanks Pete! How do I tell what kind of plastic it is? ABS? PVC? I assume there are cements that work with each? Luckily my broken tab will not show. The fracture is right at the line where the door card meets the map pocket so it will be in a dark crack if you can see it at all. The only reason I am repairing it is because I am afraid it will rattle, and that is one of my worst pet peeves. There are plenty of other fasteners to hold it on.

[PetesPonies]

Thanks Pete! How do I tell what kind of plastic it is? ABS? PVC? I assume there are cements that work with each? Luckily my broken tab will not show. The fracture is right at the line where the door card meets the map pocket so it will be in a dark crack if you can see it at all. The only reason I am repairing it is because I am afraid it will rattle, and that is one of my worst pet peeves. There are plenty of other fasteners to hold it on.

Either plastic a thermoplastic, so melting it together is the start. You may be good enough with just melting/welding it back together. I've used a pencil type soldering iron to add grain back into the piece on teh front side, many times. I have done this with consoles.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Either plastic a thermoplastic, so melting it together is the start. You may be good enough with just melting/welding it back together. I've used a pencil type soldering iron to add grain back into the piece on teh front side, many times. I have done this with consoles.

Pete,

That looks like a '70's Honda side cover.

Have you ever used your hot iron to embed metal screen in the back side of a plastic repair?

We used to do this with bumper covers before hot air welders and compatible repair sticks were available.

If you want to use plumbing cement as a filler, consider shaving similar plastic into it to thicken.

A $.69 fitting and a block plane or Surform tool will make flakes that easily dissolve and add body to your concoction.

[FuzzFace2]

Pete,

That looks like a '70's Honda side cover.

Have you ever used your hot iron to embed metal screen in the back side of a plastic repair?

We used to do this with bumper covers before hot air welders and compatible repair sticks were available.

If you want to use plumbing cement as a filler, consider shaving similar plastic into it to thicken.

A $.69 fitting and a block plane or Surform tool will make flakes that easily dissolve and add body to your concoction.

I use http://www.plastex.net/

to repair the dash bezel on my 70 AMC Javelin. The lip that screws go thru to hold it to the main frame was missing. I built a mold to make a new lip.

The mold

Fixed

Dave ----