Westerj Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 Yes, welcome! You started your adventure here in a bit of an usual place, but it'll work. However, as Jim suggested, if you go the main section and start a new thread/topic there about your truck/ambulance I can move the discussion from here to there - if you want.And, pics are always a big help. Post them up!Plus, we have a map (Bullnose Forum/Member's Map in the menu) and we'd love to put you on it if we had a town or a zip.Wasnt able to find the map.. though there is some blank space at the top of the page. Am a Linux guy, so I dont do Windows :^) all that often. Saw the post about arduino. Am watching that one !# Make the best of your time and facilities # On Mon, Aug 3, 2020 at 2:10 PM Gary Lewis [via Bullnose Enthusiasts] <redacted_email_address> wrote: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 34k would definitely still have the nylon cam gear, 134,000 it has likely been changed. I never noticed shards of plastic in my oil. They were all stuck in the pickup screen when I opened it up. A straight up timing set will do a lot for apparent acceleration and even improve fuel mileage (depending on your gearing) We always like pictures! 😉 Maybe you should start a thread in the projects section of the main forum, and possibly Gary or Bill can move these posts over to it? Damn. Dreaded nylon cam gear .. next time i take things off the front (waterpump etc)... 35 years is a long time for all that. Belts, hoses, waterpump, frontseal, cam gear, ..gluttony, or is it shipwrights disease!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 '86 should have the Sterling 10.25" rear axle. Much easier to work on than the Dana. If you're revitalizing the brakes you should replace the hose to the rear axle and check the metal line inside the frame channel (outboard of the side tank) Ambulance package mandates 200A. Diesels had dual batteries, but only 90 or 100A alternators. The 130A 3G alternator is a popular retrofit. We are just having a discussion about buckets v bench. Mounting is straight ahead for the bench, but as you see the buckets take some framework. Since the underbody is in great shape, wanted to ask about keeping it intact.. anything better than rusty metal primer to put on ... while I am working anywhere? How mich work is it to pull a fender.. likely lots of surface area to treat there... Pull off, paint, put back on, repeat... but.. that COULD be start of shipwrights disease! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 3, 2020 Share Posted August 3, 2020 Since the underbody is in great shape, wanted to ask about keeping it intact.. anything better than rusty metal primer to put on ... while I am working anywhere? How mich work is it to pull a fender.. likely lots of surface area to treat there... Pull off, paint, put back on, repeat... but.. that COULD be start of shipwrights disease! I like to use a phosphoric acid prep to convert the oxides to phosphate and passivate the rust before any kind of paint or primer. Ospho is a popular name brand but I've been using Kwik Strip concrete and metal prep from the box store. Comes in a gallon that you dilute and is dark cyan in color. I use a cheap 1/2 gallon hand pump sprayer from Horrid Fate. They're $4.99 on sale or with a coupon. Wear a respirator and goggles not safety glasses. I wear a tyvek bunny suit if it's not too hot out. If you get into pulling panels there will be no end. You'll be looking at a frame, like Gary. One place that really does need attention though is the cowl, and its drains. Pull the cowl, pull the rubber drains behind each wheel and flush all that gunk out with a hose. Pull the kickpanels inside the truck to get at the other side from the drains. Then carefully check the caulking in the cowl for being dried out and cracking or peeling. This can be the source of many leaks and will cause significant damage if left unchecked. Other caulk to check is in the rain gutters and the roof to body seam at the upper corners of the front and back window. Get it, before it gets your truck... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted August 3, 2020 Author Share Posted August 3, 2020 I like to use a phosphoric acid prep to convert the oxides to phosphate and passivate the rust before any kind of paint or primer. Ospho is a popular name brand but I've been using Kwik Strip concrete and metal prep from the box store. Comes in a gallon that you dilute and is dark cyan in color. I use a cheap 1/2 gallon hand pump sprayer from Horrid Fate. They're $4.99 on sale or with a coupon. Wear a respirator and goggles not safety glasses. I wear a tyvek bunny suit if it's not too hot out. If you get into pulling panels there will be no end. You'll be looking at a frame, like Gary. One place that really does need attention though is the cowl, and its drains. Pull the cowl, pull the rubber drains behind each wheel and flush all that gunk out with a hose. Pull the kickpanels inside the truck to get at the other side from the drains. Then carefully check the caulking in the cowl for being dried out and cracking or peeling. This can be the source of many leaks and will cause significant damage if left unchecked. Other caulk to check is in the rain gutters and the roof to body seam at the upper corners of the front and back window. Get it, before it gets your truck... Thanks for the tips. This is very helpful!! Have seen salt take enough cars. Ranger [2003] has plastic cups built into the mud flaps that ensure the fender bottoms would rot out. Not as bad as pals 411 vw that had sponges attached to each fender to accelerate rot!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 Thanks for the tips. This is very helpful!! Have seen salt take enough cars. Ranger [2003] has plastic cups built into the mud flaps that ensure the fender bottoms would rot out. Not as bad as pals 411 vw that had sponges attached to each fender to accelerate rot!! Mouse1 down. 3 more traps set. Going to have to pull dash apart to get mouse debris out. Big job? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Mouse1 down. 3 more traps set. Going to have to pull dash apart to get mouse debris out. Big job? Take the dash pad off. There are screws in the defroster vents and then screws holding the instrument & radio bezels to the pad, and on the right a few screws holding the pad to the dash frame. But there are several other screws on the right that hold other things to the dash frame, so don't just take all the screws out. Instead, loosen them and see which ones move when you pull up, gently, on the dash pad. Once the pad is off you can see a lot of things, and may be able to clean a lot of it up. But it sounds as if they've been in the HVAC vents, and those are a pain to take out. However, from the top it can be done if I remember correctly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 Mouse1 down. 3 more traps set. Going to have to pull dash apart to get mouse debris out. Big job? It's not a big job to remove the dash pad. Dismantling the ductwork (if you need to) is another story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted August 4, 2020 Share Posted August 4, 2020 It's not a big job to remove the dash pad. Dismantling the ductwork (if you need to) is another story. Not if you pull the whole dash out Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Westerj Posted August 4, 2020 Author Share Posted August 4, 2020 It's not a big job to remove the dash pad. Dismantling the ductwork (if you need to) is another story. Not if you pull the whole dash out Dave ---- Whole dash?? Yipes. Sounds like a lot of work.but... would find any shorts etc. So have to chop out.. ambulance lights etc.... .mouse houses.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts