Gary Lewis Posted July 24, 2020 Author Share Posted July 24, 2020 Mityvac makes an assortment of adaptable lids that use chains to tighten around generic MCs. Im not a huge fan of their method but you can get a purty good seal with one if you fool with the chain length long enough. Maybe its a design you could improve on. I like your tool a lot. Also I dont understand why front and rear bleed valves are different sizes but Im no engineer Yipes! The Mityvac MVA6850 Pressure Bleed Adapter Kit is $167! I thought I wanted a set, but I don't think so. However, I may go to the salvage and see if I can find a cap and gasket from a clutch master cylinder that will fit Big Blue. That's basically all I need at the moment in addition to the one I made for the brakes. As for the different bleeder sizes, I can tell you aren't up on the changes to Big Blue. That's a 1995 D60 solid front axle under there, with bigger brakes and larger calipers. And apparently they come with larger bleeder screws. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swampedout Posted July 24, 2020 Share Posted July 24, 2020 Yipes! The Mityvac MVA6850 Pressure Bleed Adapter Kit is $167! I thought I wanted a set, but I don't think so. However, I may go to the salvage and see if I can find a cap and gasket from a clutch master cylinder that will fit Big Blue. That's basically all I need at the moment in addition to the one I made for the brakes. As for the different bleeder sizes, I can tell you aren't up on the changes to Big Blue. That's a 1995 D60 solid front axle under there, with bigger brakes and larger calipers. And apparently they come with larger bleeder screws. I am not up to date on all youre doing with Big Blue, Gary. Maybe if you would slow down, I could catch up:nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig: But even the calipers on my measly TTB are bigger than the rears. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 24, 2020 Author Share Posted July 24, 2020 I am not up to date on all youre doing with Big Blue, Gary. Maybe if you would slow down, I could catch up:nabble_laughing-25-x-25_orig: But even the calipers on my measly TTB are bigger than the rears. No! I don't wanna slow down! You'll just have to forget the background and read the daily digest. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FuzzFace2 Posted July 25, 2020 Share Posted July 25, 2020 No! I don't wanna slow down! You'll just have to forget the background and read the daily digest. That looks to work a little better than mine but remember my master you cant see the level so I made a holding tank. The tank with fluid, the line from it to the master all has fluid and psi on it so when you remove it you et a mess IIRC I used see thru plastic hose into a glass bottle to see the air bubbles. I first did a gravity till I got fluid at each wheel. Then used my SnapOn vacuum bleeder that uses shop air. Then did the M. Jackson dance / bleed. And the last the PSI bleed. My system was also dry to start with as the best lines were taken from each truck, wheel cyl & calipers were new. Dave ---- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 Yipes! The Mityvac MVA6850 Pressure Bleed Adapter Kit is $167! I thought I wanted a set, but I don't think so. However, I may go to the salvage and see if I can find a cap and gasket from a clutch master cylinder that will fit Big Blue. That's basically all I need at the moment in addition to the one I made for the brakes. As for the different bleeder sizes, I can tell you aren't up on the changes to Big Blue. That's a 1995 D60 solid front axle under there, with bigger brakes and larger calipers. And apparently they come with larger bleeder screws. Gary, You have the aluminum slave with a bleeder, right? Just back bleed. Force fluid from the slave into the master. There are no check, residual pressure or proportioning valves in the clutch system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 Gary, You have the aluminum slave with a bleeder, right? Just back bleed. Force fluid from the slave into the master. There are no check, residual pressure or proportioning valves in the clutch system. Dave - The ability to see how much fluid you have is one of the many reasons I changed from the cast iron master to the aluminum/plastic one. Jim - Good point. Now that the brakes are bled I can use Bill's method to back-bleed the clutch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ArdWrknTrk Posted July 26, 2020 Share Posted July 26, 2020 Dave - The ability to see how much fluid you have is one of the many reasons I changed from the cast iron master to the aluminum/plastic one. Jim - Good point. Now that the brakes are bled I can use Bill's method to back-bleed the clutch. I usually just force it up with a 100cc irrigation syringe. But with your pressure tool I'm sure it would be as easy. Be sure you don't run the brake master dry. It is split in the middle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary Lewis Posted July 26, 2020 Author Share Posted July 26, 2020 I usually just force it up with a 100cc irrigation syringe. But with your pressure tool I'm sure it would be as easy. Be sure you don't run the brake master dry. It is split in the middle. Yes, with my brake bleeder tool it'll be easy. And, in fact, I have a bit too much fluid in the brake master, so this will help me resolve that problem. But I won't run it dry. That big master holds a full quart, so you can do a lot of bleeding before getting even a bit low. And, I have a ladder beside the truck with the truck on the lift, so it is easy to go under and bleed then climb the ladder to check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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