1980 F150 4x4 Flareside Project

[BillyRay59]

Well it's far easier to get a plateau with a platen than with a 4 1/2" disc, I can assure you of that.

I usually only make suggestions based on what I have to work with.

It's not always the best technique.

Just be cautious that you don't heat distort the sheet metal.

Because if you grind it flat when hot, it's going to cool and create divots.

Really nice truck and good progress. Can't wait to see it done.

[Rembrant]

Really nice truck and good progress. Can't wait to see it done.

Thanks all!

I'm really anxious to get the bed side panels back as once the truck has a bed on it it will feel much more complete and it will drive me even more.

I'll soon have to tackle the cab...it needs a floor pan on the driver's side and maybe a couple small patches on the passenger side...really typical rust belt Bullnose repairs. Both cab corners need to be done, and then there's about 20 holes in the cab to fix. I don't know what happened but the truck at some point had handles on the B-Pillars (3 screw holes, each side) and some kind of a light bar on the roof (more screw holes) and of course a windshield visor (another 8 screw holes, or more) and for whatever reason, it looks like every one of these items was ripped off the truck with force...so not only are they screw holes...they're large, jagged, metal peeled out type holes. Anyway...more grinding and welding and grinding...lol.

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

Thanks all!

I'm really anxious to get the bed side panels back as once the truck has a bed on it it will feel much more complete and it will drive me even more.

I'll soon have to tackle the cab...it needs a floor pan on the driver's side and maybe a couple small patches on the passenger side...really typical rust belt Bullnose repairs. Both cab corners need to be done, and then there's about 20 holes in the cab to fix. I don't know what happened but the truck at some point had handles on the B-Pillars (3 screw holes, each side) and some kind of a light bar on the roof (more screw holes) and of course a windshield visor (another 8 screw holes, or more) and for whatever reason, it looks like every one of these items was ripped off the truck with force...so not only are they screw holes...they're large, jagged, metal peeled out type holes. Anyway...more grinding and welding and grinding...lol.

Are you going to repair the cab corners before the bed comes back from paint?

Otherwise, panel bonding adhesive is a good solution, and you could probably use it to good effect patching those holes without heat (but I don't know how big or jagged)

[Rembrant]

Are you going to repair the cab corners before the bed comes back from paint?

Otherwise, panel bonding adhesive is a good solution, and you could probably use it to good effect patching those holes without heat (but I don't know how big or jagged)

I was planning to do the cab corners after I get the bed back...and possibly not for a while yet. I can remove the bed later...or for the cab corners, just remove the steps...they're easy enough to pull if need be. Anyway, if I ever get the cab fully painted I'll have to remove the bed anyway.

And, I'm just getting the bed sides, head board and rear sill painted for now. The fenders, tailgate, and steps are going back on with the beat-up 30 year old paint on them.

This is what I'm dealing with for holes...and I'm open to ideas on fixing them...weld, fill, patch, etc...whatever. Quickest and easiest. (PS: I'm thinking about removing the cab marker lights as well...and either making cover blanks or welding them in as well).

By the way, I am really, REALLY against drilling holes in body work...at least around here. It might be OK down south where it's warm and dry, but up here in rust belt...as rusty as a rust belt can get, all those screw holes become places to rust...and they all do (and did). Visors, handles, and those tonneau covers where you drill 150 holes in the bed for the snaps...they all rusted rapidly here.

[ArdWrknTrk]

Are you going to repair the cab corners before the bed comes back from paint?

Otherwise, panel bonding adhesive is a good solution, and you could probably use it to good effect patching those holes without heat (but I don't know how big or jagged)

I was planning to do the cab corners after I get the bed back...and possibly not for a while yet. I can remove the bed later...or for the cab corners, just remove the steps...they're easy enough to pull if need be. Anyway, if I ever get the cab fully painted I'll have to remove the bed anyway.

And, I'm just getting the bed sides, head board and rear sill painted for now. The fenders, tailgate, and steps are going back on with the beat-up 30 year old paint on them.

This is what I'm dealing with for holes...and I'm open to ideas on fixing them...weld, fill, patch, etc...whatever. Quickest and easiest. (PS: I'm thinking about removing the cab marker lights as well...and either making cover blanks or welding them in as well).

By the way, I am really, REALLY against drilling holes in body work...at least around here. It might be OK down south where it's warm and dry, but up here in rust belt...as rusty as a rust belt can get, all those screw holes become places to rust...and they all do (and did). Visors, handles, and those tonneau covers where you drill 150 holes in the bed for the snaps...they all rusted rapidly here.

I could see grinding and then dinging those screw holes down.

Using panel adhesive as a kinda super strong Bondo.

It cuts back nicely with coarse sandpaper on a block

Featherfill and primer after that.

It would save a bunch of disassembly, and weld grinding after the fact.

None of that is structural.

But I think I would still use the welder on the floor pans and sills.

And, yes, I am aware of the incongruity in my rationalizations.

 

[Gary Lewis]

I could see grinding and then dinging those screw holes down.

Using panel adhesive as a kinda super strong Bondo.

It cuts back nicely with coarse sandpaper on a block

Featherfill and primer after that.

It would save a bunch of disassembly, and weld grinding after the fact.

None of that is structural.

But I think I would still use the welder on the floor pans and sills.

And, yes, I am aware of the incongruity in my rationalizations.

I think I agree on the panel adhesive for the holes in the top and pillars, although I have limited experience with it. But what I have says it isn't likely to ever let loose and isn't brittle enough to crack.

However, depending on whether you are welding holes in the floor up or welding patch panels on, I might differ. Welding to thin, rusted metal hasn't been easy for me, but you have a lot more experience than I do, Cory, so it might work for you. Instead I'd braze the holes and seal things with POR-15 like I did on Big Blue.

But if you are installing patch panels over holes I'd be tempted to use the panel adhesive - both to hold the panel on as well as to fill and seal the holes.

[ArdWrknTrk]

I think I agree on the panel adhesive for the holes in the top and pillars, although I have limited experience with it. But what I have says it isn't likely to ever let loose and isn't brittle enough to crack.

However, depending on whether you are welding holes in the floor up or welding patch panels on, I might differ. Welding to thin, rusted metal hasn't been easy for me, but you have a lot more experience than I do, Cory, so it might work for you. Instead I'd braze the holes and seal things with POR-15 like I did on Big Blue.

But if you are installing patch panels over holes I'd be tempted to use the panel adhesive - both to hold the panel on as well as to fill and seal the holes.

I brought up the panel adhesive because I see it as the only way to properly replace cab corners with the bed on.

Annnd, if you're going there why not use the whole tube (which has a date code) ?

I'm quite sure it would be fine for a floor, and have the advantage of providing a watertight seal, where NO moisture can get into the seams.

Even though I'm an epoxy fanboi, I'm old and set in my thinking.

Speaking of which, I need to check on my windshield today, and get the trim back on. 💡

[Rembrant]

I brought up the panel adhesive because I see it as the only way to properly replace cab corners with the bed on.

Annnd, if you're going there why not use the whole tube (which has a date code) ?

I'm quite sure it would be fine for a floor, and have the advantage of providing a watertight seal, where NO moisture can get into the seams.

Even though I'm an epoxy fanboi, I'm old and set in my thinking.

Speaking of which, I need to check on my windshield today, and get the trim back on. 💡

So you'll have to educate me a bit on these products. I know what Panel Boner is, but I've never used it personally. Are you suggesting I use it to cover the holes all by itself, or use it to adhere steel patches over the holes?

[Rembrant]

As for the ride, the bed doesn't weigh much, so.....

I know, right? I might have to get some 50lb bags of sand to throw in the back (and maybe the front...lol).

 

[ArdWrknTrk]

So you'll have to educate me a bit on these products. I know what Panel Boner is, but I've never used it personally. Are you suggesting I use it to cover the holes all by itself, or use it to adhere steel patches over the holes?

I think it would bridge those little holes all by itself, and never come off or crack.